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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, 1st post but long time lurker. Just got a SN 5000ish 140 H1 tractor at an estate sale. Seems all complete with a deck. Only superficial rust inside. No significant glass or metal damage. Want to restore it as much as possible. Turns over but no spark. Seems to have good compression. Saw the coil (-) wire was crispy and it has a magneto points ignition. So stopped there. Will convert to battery points. Trying to remove engine, but the back of motor ( cowling side) does not look like the manual. It has no screen and I cannot find two "coupling" bolts that the manual states to remove. It has four bolts on flywheel and 6 bolts on a flange further back. Anyone have any experience with the early ones and point me in a direction. Would much appreciate it. Vr Brent
 

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Hello, 1st post but long time lurker. Just got a SN 5000ish 140 H1 tractor at an estate sale. Seems all complete with a deck. Only superficial rust inside. No significant glass or metal damage. Want to restore it as much as possible. Turns over but no spark. Seems to have good compression. Saw the coil (-) wire was crispy and it has a magneto points ignition. So stopped there. Will convert to battery points. Trying to remove engine, but the back of motor ( cowling side) does not look like the manual. It has no screen and I cannot find two "coupling" bolts that the manual states to remove. It has four bolts on flywheel and 6 bolts on a flange further back. Anyone have any experience with the early ones and point me in a direction. Would much appreciate it. Vr Brent
We remove the seat deck and take the set screw out at the cooling fan. Remove the engine with the driveshaft intact and remove the driveshaft once the engine is removed and out from the tractor. Love the 68 140’s.
Also, the magnetos are available for these tractors and aren’t $150. You may want to consider using an OEM type and keep it original. Just a thought!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info Tom! That helps alot. Was going to remove the deck anyway for paint and access to frame. I may keep original as possible as I am sort of a "restorer" by nature. I ordered all the battery ignition stuff (already has points) as I want to fire up the motor to assess prior to removal in case I have to go into it to repair more than I think. Seems a pain in the behind to have to remove the motor just to replace a coil! or change a spark plug wire or coil wire. As far as the deck goes, missing only the front roller. Has original paint and decals on deck. Spindle towers look good, but trash was under covers and significant metal erosion under covers. No holes, but corrosion is deep enough to likely affect integrity of deck. Have a plasma cutter and stick and mig welders as well as sand blaster and 80 gal compressor. Thinking about cutting a section out of deck and just replacing damaged portion. LOL! the decks I see for sale cost more that my $400 tractor and most are very incomplete. Any idea what guage plate would be needed? I am thinking 10 or 12.
 

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Thanks for the info Tom! That helps alot. Was going to remove the deck anyway for paint and access to frame. I may keep original as possible as I am sort of a "restorer" by nature. I ordered all the battery ignition stuff (already has points) as I want to fire up the motor to assess prior to removal in case I have to go into it to repair more than I think. Seems a pain in the behind to have to remove the motor just to replace a coil! or change a spark plug wire or coil wire. As far as the deck goes, missing only the front roller. Has original paint and decals on deck. Spindle towers look good, but trash was under covers and significant metal erosion under covers. No holes, but corrosion is deep enough to likely affect integrity of deck. Have a plasma cutter and stick and mig welders as well as sand blaster and 80 gal compressor. Thinking about cutting a section out of deck and just replacing damaged portion. LOL! the decks I see for sale cost more that my $400 tractor and most are very incomplete. Any idea what guage plate would be needed? I am thinking 10 or 12.
Not sure why that name is there but it’s Jim not TomManson! Don’t know who he is!
Anyway, we have 6 side tag 68 140’s, the early tractors between serial numbers 1000 and about 3500. I have one that was restored and the others are as is in their work clothes. I do like seeing them looking all shined up and spiffy but also admire the age and beauty of them. It is a pain fireplace the magneto coil but we do it when we’re overhauling the engines. Seems these motors all need a piston and rings along with whatever else we can find that needs upgrading or replacement. I like keeping them as original as possible so we are using the magneto coils. I’ve been collecting period correct ‘big mouth’ mower decks for the early machines for quite a few years. I have a very nice one for my 68 140 and it needs to be restored to match the tractor. The others will get a good cleaning and some wax to bring them back to looking decent for an unrestored tractor. I’ve never welded on one to know the thickness but it says they’re darn near 1/8th inch thick. Not sure if that’s like 12 to 14 gauge in thickness. Should be fairly easy to cut and remove what you need to and re-weld in a repair. Seems that some locations of the country were kinder to the metal than others. I always used a blowgun and air to clean my decks off after mowing, never water. The water would pool on top and the mix of clippings, dirt, and water would turn into an acid that burned through the steel in no time. I still have the original deck on my 71 140 that I restored in 1998.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry Jim, my bad! Nice herd you have there! AWESOME! I have done 2 midyear Corvettes, a 24 Model T Dr Coupe, 68 Mustang, and a 51 8N Ford. Thought I would give the smaller iron a go. Honestly, you do not see many early JDs around here. This was the first one that I ran across in a long time. Needed another mower and why pay 2000 for today's junk when you can enjoy an American Classic! Got all my ignition stuff today, so will try and see if it runs.
 

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Sorry Jim, my bad! Nice herd you have there! AWESOME! I have done 2 midyear Corvettes, a 24 Model T Dr Coupe, 68 Mustang, and a 51 8N Ford. Thought I would give the smaller iron a go. Honestly, you do not see many early JDs around here. This was the first one that I ran across in a long time. Needed another mower and why pay 2000 for today's junk when you can enjoy an American Classic! Got all my ignition stuff today, so will try and see if it runs.
These workhorses are the best machines in my opinion. Easy to work on and service, simple to maintain. Pretty cheap to run. And parts are still available either from Deere or aftermarket. It’s really a win-win situation!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good News, received parts, jumped coil and she fired right up. Idles great, backfires a little on decel, but I only eyeballed the points. No smoke and sounded strong. Noticed some oil on floor toward electric clutch. Good build up on frame rails. Will get a seal kit. Noticed head bolts were kind of loose. Probably pull the motor tomorrow. Any "should do's to the motor I should do while out? The block and starter are black with all else green. But starter has a decal on it? What is right for a 5,000 vintage? I have read "all green" but I have also read ATF "F" for the xsmn. HMMMM. Would you drill id plate rivets and redo or just tape it off? Now I know what Novices on the CMP Forum feel like when they want to correct their 1st M1 Garand!
This is probably going to take some time.
 

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Good News, received parts, jumped coil and she fired right up. Idles great, backfires a little on decel, but I only eyeballed the points. No smoke and sounded strong. Noticed some oil on floor toward electric clutch. Good build up on frame rails. Will get a seal kit. Noticed head bolts were kind of loose. Probably pull the motor tomorrow. Any "should do's to the motor I should do while out? The block and starter are black with all else green. But starter has a decal on it? What is right for a 5,000 vintage? I have read "all green" but I have also read ATF "F" for the xsmn. HMMMM. Would you drill id plate rivets and redo or just tape it off? Now I know what Novices on the CMP Forum feel like when they want to correct their 1st M1 Garand!
This is probably going to take some time.
You can tap out the rivets from the back to preserve them and the tag. They can be reused afterwards to reinstall the tag. Everything is green on a 68 including the grille and fuel tank. Oil leak seems to be the oil pan on mine but that’s not to say yours is only leaking there. I’d take the head off and inspect the cylinder wall as well as the piston and edge. It would be the easiest time to mic out the cylinder and see if it’s within spec. If so, put a new piston and a set of rings in her after honing the cylinder walls and you’re good to go. Check the valves too while you’re there. Plan to rebuild the carb too before you restart it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got the motor out and removed most of the hang ons. Ordered the coil for a point magneto system to keep it correct, but have no idea how to get the coil off the stator. Do not want to damage the stator. Seems to be a rare item! I looked at the Kohler SM and it doesn't address. Also ordered a SM2086 to see if there is additional information. If anyone has an idea, would live to get this done! Lesson learned....do not operate without the cowling screen. My motor fins are caked with oily grass clippings. Have to pull the piston to look for heat issues.
 

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I'm dealing with installing the screen right now on my 140 with the engine already in it. It's pretty aggravating. Not hard to imagine why somebody might leave it off but. like you indicated, it's a bad idea. I can't leave the screen off on mine though unless I take the driveshaft yoke off at the engine end of it so I can slide the screen cover off. If I left it on it would be whizzing around in a somewhat elliptical orbit as the driveshaft spun.

do not operate without the cowling screen. My motor fins are caked with oily grass clippings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm dealing with installing the screen right now on my 140 with the engine already in it. It's pretty aggravating. Not hard to imagine why somebody might leave it off but. like you indicated, it's a bad idea. I can't leave the screen off on mine though unless I take the driveshaft yoke off at the engine end of it so I can slide the screen cover off. If I left it on it would be whizzing around in a somewhat elliptical orbit as the driveshaft spun.
Mine is a 68, so it has the clutch not mentioned in the SM2093. After studying it a little, it seems the only way to install mine is to separate the yoke. The front half is bolted to flywheel and the back half is bolted to front half with six bolts. There is a cupped ring on the back of back half that fits the screen diameter and the front is retained by a ring bolted to the flywheel. So, for me. I would bolt the front (4 bolts) to flywheel, pull six bolts from rear (they are cap bolts without nuts that have heads to the rear), install screen, reinstall back half with ring and tighten bolts.

If anyone has a method for removing the ignition coil from the magneto, I would appreciate it!! Thanks
 
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