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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The old Deere (1968 H3) gave out today. Was pushing some snow this afternoon under load and just stopped. No loud bang or any noise so i don't think it is any hard parts. I checked that the fluid level & check valves. Did a quick search of Ebay and only saw post 30,000 Hydro's but no early ones. What is the common failure on these and are parts available. If it is just seals are the parts readily available. I got to get it back in the garage and dried off and get the cab and seat pan off to get a good look but first back to work. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
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Is the 'rag joint' the equivalent of a flexible coupler?
 

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Is the 'rag joint' the equivalent of a flexible coupler?
Yes, the less technical term.
Is it low on fluid and does the fluid look clean is the starting point. Blade still go up and down? A leak in a blade line would be great to find about now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is the 'rag joint' the equivalent of a flexible coupler?
Yes - that is what i was referring too - fingers crossed that is what broke.
Yes, the less technical term.
Is it low on fluid and does the fluid look clean is the starting point. Blade still go up and down? A leak in a blade line would be great to find about now.
Yes, the less technical term.
Is it low on fluid and does the fluid look clean is the starting point. Blade still go up and down? A leak in a blade line would be great to find about now.
Good point - the Driveshaft must be working as the Plow moves with ease - so it is inside the Hydro drive system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes - that is what i was referring too - fingers crossed that is what broke.


Good point - the Driveshaft must be working as the Plow moves with ease - so it is inside the Hydro drive system.
Fluid was at correct level and clean as a new.
 

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Just another guess, but maybe a broken axle. Happened to me once way back in my snow days. And, I think that was a 140.
 

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Could be any one of the roll pins in the drive line has sheared or fallen out?
I hate to call it a clutch, but is the clutch stuck down some? I like to look at the really easy stuff first. I've learned my lesson on thinking it always has to be difficult and expensive. Freewheel Valve is down and tight?
 

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I'm more familiar with the >30k tractors, but I would look at the roll pin (#11) on the diagram here (JD parts).

Mine was broken in half (the long way), it worked, but it caused some issues with creep adjustment.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I hate to call it a clutch, but is the clutch stuck down some? I like to look at the really easy stuff first. I've learned my lesson on thinking it always has to be difficult and expensive. Freewheel Valve is down and tight?
I did check freewheel valve - if the clutch were bad hydro still work? Thanks for sharing thoughts all are welcome.
 

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If the front blade raises properly, the problem isn't in the clutch or driveshaft.
On the early 1968 - 70 140s, the freewheel valve has to be turned down tight all the way for the hydro to work. I don't mean it has to be overly tight, just all the way down. This is opposite of the later 140s.
Can you jack the rear end up so that both wheels are off the ground? Does the engine / hydro turn the wheels now with no resistance? If you turn one wheel by hand, does the other one turn the opposite direction?
 

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I saw this once on a newer JD. The key feel out of one rear axle. This allowed it to spin inside the hub. The tractor wouldn't move, but it was hard to see.
 
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