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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I put the 68 140 together and tested it, the xsmn had a little creep at idle. You would have to move the lever forward from neutral about a half inch to find "no creep". So, I followed the manual for adjustment. Moved the lever into neutral, removed the link and there was not enough adjustment on the pivot to get 1 5/16th. Runs out of shaft threads. loosened the eccentric bearing nut and moved it's full travel and still way short. I guess I know now why the PO had disconnected the safety switch! I see a blurb about a new spring and clip assy, but I need about an inch more of rod and don't think that is the solution. Any ideas what would cause this and any remedies besides making a longer rod or a longer pivot ball joint?
 

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I wouldn't think you should have to alter any of the oem parts. Best to get a service manual or at least a parts diagram and try to figure out how it's supposed to go together. I've got a 300, which is similar to your 140, but maybe someone with a 140 will chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have all the manuals. Operator, Parts, and Service. Agree that it should work as OEM. But, unfortunately, it doesn't. You cannot adjust the creep out of it as the manual describes as the control rod is not long enough to reach the hole in the cam. Disconnected control rod and driveshaft and removed complete. I did not drive it prior to tearing it apart. I did not disassemble the transmission and pump assembly nor alter the length of the control rod. So, it went together as it came apart.
 

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Still not sure what's going on with your 140 but I've had to adjust the creep out of my 300 several times in the 20+ years I've owned the tractor. One thing I found was over time all the linkage pins and bores wear a little. Until I repaired most of the slop out of anything that rolled or moved, I could not adjust the creep out completely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think I may have found a culprit. I took the battery and tray out to inspect the linkage and noticed that the pin in the linkage at the tower bushing is larger than all the others. I looked at the PN and it is the same as most ot the other same type pins. I suspect it has been replaced and the geometry not maintaned. Given the length of the handle and the piece that extends from the tower bearing shaft down it probably doesn't take alot to make a difference in the rod length requirement. Not an issue. I can fix that with an adapter on the ball joint end. I have a mill, lathe and 3/8 x 24 taps! Nice to know it probably not something more serious. Making an entire shaft seems like overkill. Thanks for the response!
 

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check the roller on the trans elliptical thing , mine didnt spin making it have a flat spot
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
check the roller on the trans elliptical thing , mine didnt spin making it have a flat spot


Got her fixed. Sort of repurposing! Cut a 1 inch length from an old demilled M1
Garand barrel. Increased the bore size to .34, tapped it with 3/8x24, lathed it to remove taper, milled wrench flats on each end, cut a 3/4" piece from a threaded 3/x24 bolt, red loctitied the bolt end into new sleeve, screwed all on end of control arm and now have the 1 5/16". A little fiddling with the cam and no more creep. Thanks all for your input!
 
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