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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, finally found a 140, it's a 69. However I see that the hydro drive is transverse in the machine, and a few have commented that they will be difficult to find parts for when needing to be fixed. Is this a real factor, do I need to find a newer one, or are they pretty bullet proof?
Thanks Dan
 

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i can only say in the short time that i have owned my 69 i have had no problems to speak of. as far as being bullet proof i would have to defer to someone with more experiance with this machine than myself .....jim
 

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HEY DAN: THOSE OLD TRANS. ARE TUFF I AM USEING A 68 MODEL WITH THAT TRANS FOR A PULLING TR. I HAVE TRANSPLANTED A 20 H.P. ONAN IN PLACE OF THE 12 HP SO FAR BEEN NO PROBLEM WITH IT HAVE MANY TROPHYS TO PROVE IT EVERY ONE SAYS HYDRO WONT PULL. OLDDOG140
 

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I have a 69 and had a 70 140 and both have the same disc brake style rear end. My 70 I used fairly hard for a couple years for a lawn and landscaping service that I ran with a neighbor. I would pull over loaded trailers with rock and dirt, drag harrows, disks, rollers, thatcher and aerators. I pushed dirt, rock and snow with it as well and it never failed or leaked on me. My 69 I just got running this past Fall but I will say the rear end on that one sounds the same as the 70 so I expect the same out of this one.
I know a rebuild kit for the hydro is no longer available from Deere but I'm sure if a problem should arise any hydraulic shop should be able to help. I think I heard of a place somewhere here in the midwest that fellow WFM member has sent theirs in for repairs once in the past but the name or the state that it is located in escapes me now. Buy it or if you don't please let us fellow WFM members have a shot at it before it gets sold to someone else.

(Message edited by GY67 on January 12, 2006)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys,
That's a relief, I've been wanting to play with one of these for a while, but they are really scarce in my parts. Or at least it seems so. When I do find one it's out of the price range.
Anyway, got this one with an integral hitch, headlight kit, and narrow front wheels. She looks rough, but who knows, I think she'll live again.

Thanks again
 

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got a question I have a 93 425 and recently have been having issues with it quiting while mowing.its just like someone shuts the fuel off.only way I can get it back started is to full choke it.and it will only only idle.if I try to give it full throttle it dies.then after about 5 times of doing that,its like flooded then runs fine for a bit.I can hear the fuel pump humming everytime I turn the key on.and I also pulled the fuel line off and turned the key on.it spits fuel real good.I thought maybe my fuel filter was bad.but that's not it.so,I tried pulling the mixture screw out and sprayed in the hole and throught the top of the carb with choke cleaner.and blew it out.then it was running good for about 10min and then again same thing.like the fuel shuts off.so I'm wondering if the fuel pump is sometimes working and sometimes not??or is there a solienoid that turns the fuel on and off??thanks brad
 

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Brad -

There is a fuel solenoid attached to the carb. body . It closes when you turn the key off and opens with key on and running/cranking . There is a time delay module that often fails on the 425 and causes intermittent run problems . That module is only about 25-30 bucks from Deere , and is where I would start if trouble-shooting/throwing parts at it . It just may solve your problem . This is the thing that allows the motor to run for a couple seconds after you turn the key off , to allow the tractor to burn out fuel stored in carb. float bowl , and prevent back-firing at shut down .

It's definitely worth a try to start with , if only to keep from pulling your hair out trying replacing other things first ; then to find out many hundred dollars later , that a cheap part would have solved your problem in the first place .

This advise precludes a good thorough inspection / cleaning of carb. of junk that could also be causing problems . Hoses to carb. can deteriorate letting little bitty chunks of rubber to get lodged in jets/passages that will keep returning unless dealt with . Filter clean ??

Side note : Don't be afraid to tear the carb down with-out a gasket set , as you can usually re-use them ; if you are careful when dis-assembling . Also note that the 93' came with a carb. vent solenoid that was soon replaced with an up-graded carb. that had the main jet fuel solenoid mentioned in the first paragraph . I should have mentioned this first ; forgive me . Lots of early models such as yours where plagued with problems due to the vent solenoid , and most have only been fixed officially by changing to the up-graded carb. You should first determine if your 93' still has the old system , or if it has been changed to the new style "FIX" carb. from Deere . Until then , all attempts to diagnose will be mute . Sorry .


Dave
 

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thanks david,mine doesn't have the upgraded type carb.I did some looking last night.it has that solenoid with 2 little like 3/16 hoses hooked to it.price from deere was 88.00!!! for that little thing.I think I will start with the time delay first.I dont think I have anything plugged in the carb cause when it doesnt act up it runs excellent and smooth.matter of fact that solenoid cost more than the darn fuel pump ha ha.
 

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I have the tech manual for the tractor also.I will have to look at my serial number it says some are vented and some are not vented if I read it right.and explains how the solienoinds work.looks like the newer serial numbers have a electronic solenoid and some are electronic/vacumm which is what mine is.those newer carbs are very expensive like 268.00.but I don't think I will need that.at the worst probably the solenoid which is 88.00.I was a member on here since like 2005.but forgot my user name password
probably could get it retrived but I wanted to get some info on this since its my only deere now.I've had owned almost all the 300 series and a few 200 series before but just started costing to much money with fixing,buying,selling so I got rid of all of it and got the 425 with the front blade
 

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well I tried the time delay module yesterday.but didn't cure the problem.it will run perfect for about 10min then just die.i also tried loosing the gas cap and that didn't do anything.funny thing is after it sits for a while then its back to running fine for another 10min.
 

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I would test the solenoid for proper operation with 12 volts applied to it for 30 minutes or so , to see if it is holding long term . I would also break into the carb. and do a thorough clean out . I've seen a few instances that would act that way when a little debris would intermittently get sucked into the main jet entrance area , then fall back down after shut down , then get sucked back in after running awhile . Worth a try .

Dave
 
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