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A friend of mine brought over a 425 that is pushing oil out in the area of the breather hose that runs from the top of the engine block to the base of the air cleaner housing. The engine will lose about ¾, or so, of a quart per tank of fuel. It also fouls spark plugs pretty regularly. When I opened the air filter housing, there was oil on the inside of the air filter and around the throat of the carburetor. Looks like in addition to blowing oil out on the top of the block, it is sucking oil directly into the carburetor via the crank case vent tube. The engine does not smoke and actually seems to run pretty well; until it fouls the plugs.

Is there some sort of valve or diaphragm in the upper portion of the engine block that could have failed causing this oil loss? I have looked at the diagram in the JD 4X5 service manual and don’t see anything. Any other ideas as to what may be causing this?
 

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Jay,

It could be a worn breather reed valve causing his problem. This reed valve is in the engine block, below where the breather tube connects. Unfortunately, I believe it is necessary that the engine be removed from the tractor and the flywheel be removed from the engine to gain access to the breather compartment.

Another possible cause of excessive oil discharge through the breather is blow-by caused by piston ring and cylinder wear.

I sent an email with more information.

Bill
 

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I haven't got into really trouble shooting yet, but wanted to throw this out for suggestions.
Had to replace the tranny on the 110 and when I put everything back together, the 110 fired right up no problem. Drove it around some to make sure all was good. Shut down and went a little later to put deck on to mow and it wouldn't crank. Checked PTO safety switch, neutral switch & all seemed good.
Turned key a few times, still nothing. Turned key again and fired up. Put mower deck on and did the same thing. Finally started & mowed, ran fine for 2 hours. Shut it down, and did the same thing again.
I'm thinking maybe the ignition switch is going, the connections on the switch are bad or I have a short/break in the wiring some where.
Didn't have time to troubleshoot yesterday, but will tonight after work and let you know what i find out. Might just order a new switch for the sake of it and to have on hand.
By the way, I want to thank Mark Mann for hooking me up with a tranny until I can get mine rebuilt.
John
 

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an ignition switch is a possibility, its around $14.

I would first look for dirty contacts.

next I would check that you get 12v to the little wire on the solenoid, when trying to start the tractor. if you do, and you don't hear a clicking when you turn the key, then the solenoid is probably bad
 

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Dirty contacts is gonna be first check.
Then check solenoid as you suggest. When you turn key, there is no click, nothing, then all of sudden a couple turns of key later it will fire right up.

I'm also thinking the circuit breaker. Can that be tested?

Given the age & as far as I know none of the electrical items has ever been changed, so I'm not concerned if I have to replace. Can't complain for a 42 year old machine and I've had it for 10+ years now.
 

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Think I got it figured out.
My son mowed yesterday. It started right up for him, he said.
When I got home before trying to start it, I checked & cleaned all connections, cleaned battery terminals. Plug to ignition was a little dirty & corroded. Started right up. Ran it for a few minutes and shut it down. Turned key to restart... nothing.
Checked the circuit breaker and 1) warm to the touch and 2)no juice going thru it while key is turned.
Went & ate dinner came out, tractor started right up. Ran again for few minutes, shut down & no restart. By-passed the breaker and it cranked & started. Shut down & started again. So calling my JD guy today & ordering a circuit breaker & maybe a switch to have on hand.
Question...what exactly does the circuit breaker protect? I don't have lights. Just a safety feature JD added to system so you don't fry the electrical system/regulator? It's supposedly 25 amp, while regulator/rectifier is 10/15 amp per the service manual.
John
 

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my old ariens gt had the main breaker bypassed.

when I turned on the lights the wires shorted to the frame and pretty much totaled the wiring harness, every place a lighting wire touched another wire, they both melted.
 
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