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I just got a Deere wire harness to put a work light on one of the posts on my 40 loader on a 425. Does anyone know how big a light I can use without drawing too much juice on the head light wires where it plugs into? I am thinking of even running a second light on the other post by running a wire across the loader crossbar. The local auto parts store has a pair of 52 watt halogen clear fog lights that look like they will mount alright. Anybody have any thoughts?
 

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Bryce,
I have a pair of 50W halogens mounted on my Curtis cab. As I recall, those two lights use about half of the 20Amp output of the 455's standard alternator (425 & 445 have 15Amp Stators), however, when also using the OEM headlights & the halogens, I've not had any noticeable problem with the battery getting drained. In my case, I installed the lights on their own circuit using a separate fuse, 12VDC relay and switch to provide the current for the lights....I didn't use the existing headlight switch. I hope this helps..
TimF
 

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Bryce, I have stock Deere work lights that came on with my 40. I do not know their current draw, but they are entirely adequate as far as light output.

The 15 amps your tractor puts out at full throttle equates to 180 watts, so you'd be using well over half the power available, which would leave me a bit concerned. Have you looked into LED lighting? There are a lot of new products coming out built around high output LEDs that give lots of light at very low current draws. They are not necessarily cheap, but they last forever. Here's a link a quick search turned up: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/232466-led-xenon-work-lights-your.html

Tim
 

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FYI:
I've been bringing a 210 back from the dead with a trans that is leaking past the axle seal and pooling around the hub on the rim.

Few weeks ago happen to be reading a bottle of Lucas Oil Power Steering Leak Fix and it states it can be used in gear boxes. I drained the trans and refilled with two thirds 85-145 gear oil and one third mix of the power steering fix and SAE 30 wt.

Seems to have taken care of the leak, although I haven't done any heavy work with it yet.
 

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I was shocked to see a diagram of that thing. Frankly, it scares me with how complicated it looks and I dreaded having to mess with it, because it seems to be in working order otherwise, for a small leak!
 

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Roger, I did think about that, and possibly the hubs, but I figured I wanted to inspire confidence. I think the last rear end I swapped only took about an hour.

Andrew, to replace the axle seals, you just remove the axle tubes from the gear case. you do not have to open up the case, which is where all the little parts reside.

KB
 
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