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Have you checked Eastwood for the paint colors? There was a time when I was getting stuff through them somewhat regularly, but it's been a couple years now. They were generally pretty good, though occasionally stuff would be backordered and you wouldn't find out until it didn't show up with the rest of the order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
Have you checked Eastwood for the paint colors?
No luck with Eastwood either. I was thinking it was NAPA but I originally got the paint I want at Car Quest. They had an excellent assortment at one time. Past tense.

Yesterday I gathered up various parts I'm actually gonna use on the swap and get them ready. Couldn't find the correct ring gear till I looked under another ring gear that's for a 5.0/5 speed manual combo. It did a great job of hiding. Gotta sandblast it and paint it semi-gloss black. I've used JD paint quite a bit over the years but when the dealer wanted 22 bucks a couple months ago for one spray can of muffler paint I said ok, that does it. The quality of the paint I use now is very good and it's literally half the price of the JD stuff(!). It's from a line of paint called 'Beauty Tone' and is sold by a franchised store called Home Hardware. Local hardware owner told me Tremclad was getting ridiculous about their pricing so they came up with their own version. They have gloss black, semi gloss and flat. They also sell clear gloss and clear flat. I like JD's Blitz black a bit better than the Beauty Tone flat finish but not enough to pay double. I still use JD's green and yellow.
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Trying to figure out what the complete ID number is on this part. It's E5ZE-9D44?-A1A . (Update: I figured out what goes where the ? is. See if you can guess it.)
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Won't be done in the first phase but after it's up and running I'd like to do a shaker hood on the Splash. Aftermarket kits for shaker scoops/related parts are available for a lot less than an original one. .
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This pic shows the difference between standard 5.0 accessories and the shorter ones they put on the 90's V8 Explorer models. Should be able to run a standard fan on the engine instead of electric but we'll see. The Ford pumps are 2 piece. The back half normally stays on the engine but I'll have to swap that part out too to make the short pump work. Not sure if I have the bracket necessary to mount the pollution pump in the shorter configuration though. I need to use it so the serp belt will work. There was a 'offroad use only' dummy pump available at one time. Not sure if it still is.
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Test fitted the motor/trans a couple times last fall. I really liked the light blue color years ago when I painted the other 302 I have. It's actually Chrysler blue and is brighter than the GM blue. Not sure when I changed my mind but I don't like it as much now. Gonna go a darker shade on the 302 I'm currently doing. Thought about painting the motor black but almost everything on the truck is that color. It needs some contrast under the hood.
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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
No shiny paint. The motor isn't prepped for that yet. This is kind of a practice run for when the parts and engine are all painted nicely. I'm doing some test fits of the accessories and configurations I might use. This is one of 3 ways I can do the accessory configuration and I'm making sure I have everything present and accounted for to do whichever way I choose. I'll be more familiar with what to do when to avoid scrapes and scratches on nicely refinished parts. No AC if I go with this version. I really want to use the short accessories/mounts from the V8 Explorer if I can though so I'm gonna try that next. Should be able to just run a regular fan that way instead of electric. Electric fans worked fine on my previous V8 Rangers. No AC on those trucks though. The Explorer AC worked fine with just a regular fan so the Splash should too.
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I put a filter on the engine to keep any crap from getting in there but I'll actually be using a filter relocation kit. Lots and lots of work to do yet. I'm doing a retromod type of thing with the engine. I want it to look good but I don't want a flashy engine. Just a nice clean stock-ish looking engine bay with some selected parts to dress things up a bit. Kinda like this but not the same shade of blue and (I think) I'm gonna do the intake blue too. Dist cap will likely be stock grey. My taste has evolved to where I only like one primary color used on an engine now. In this case I'm gonna go blue, with grey and black and a few chromes pieces.
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This version has the pollution pump on the bottom right of the engine (viewed from the driver's seat). If I don't include it or some sort of custom bracket/pulley to eliminate it I won't be able to use a stock serp belt.
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The headers I have on it in this pic are factory stock for a 90's V8 Explorer. They're kind of odd looking but apparently work very well. If I use them I'm gonna wrap them.They originally had a metal foil around the upper sections to reduce heat transfer. The carb'd 5.0 in my '90 Ranger liked to vapor lock on a warm day in traffic and these headers might make this one do that too. Gotta buy or make a fuel pump block off plate. No room for a mechanical pump and I'll be using an electric pump anyway. Already got one plus a regulator. I have the oil filter relocation kit on hand. Will probably mount the adapter that goes on the engine block before it goes in then do the filter adapter after the 302 is installed.
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My V8 Ranger project isn't a lot more complex than the golf cart makeover I did two winters ago. Some major differences obviously ..but a pile of parts is a pile of parts.
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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
The automatic transmission I'm gonna use is in this pic (middle right) along with the EFI 5.0 and the carb'd 5.0. The short accessories I want to use are on the bench. Gonna test fit them on the '85 engine next and see how that goes. The belt length requires the AC pump to be in the loop for the short accessories. I could likely get around that by making a bracket/pulley to take its place but the Splash had factory AC and it's a black truck so I want it working. The wiring might be an issue but should be solvable.

If I use the short accessories I'll have to replace the inner half of the water pump ..and if I do that I'll also have to replace the crank seal. I was trying to avoid cracking this motor open any more than I have to but it isn't exactly working out that way. As it stands now, I have to replace the carb, intake, valve cover, thermostat and header gaskets and the rear seal too. And even if I didn't have to do it, replacing the front seal while the engine is out makes sense anyway. Many years ago I went to the boneyard several times to get good used engines (all hail Andy's Auto Wreckers!) and I dropped them in the way I got them. Never had a problem. I was just lucky though.
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I've been looking over the pics of the 347 stroker in my first '96 Splash to refresh my recollection of how the swap was done on it. Sold that little truck about 12 years ago. Been cursing myself a lot lately for that. I let it go so I'd have room for my '76 Corvette but this was a badass little truck and if I had a do-over I'd likely find a way around the storage issue.
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If you look at the bottom left of this pic you'll see the '96 I sold still had the clutch pedal in it so I could have swapped to the T5 manual I had on the shelf if I wanted to. The '96 I'm doing now was always an automatic though so I sold the T5. No way I was gonna try installing a clutch pedal at age 67. I can can barely get in and out of my Corvette now sometimes. Working my way under the dash of the truck would not have gone well. I could see myself needing to be extracted with the jaws of life.
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The shifter on the current Splash will still be on the column when I'm done. It still has the stock bench seat so I'd have to switch to buckets for a floor shifter like the B&M in my previous '96. I was actually gonna switch to buckets anyway but the set I bought won't work. Dammit. The interior of the truck I'm doing now is super mint so there's really no need to swap seats. Would just be a preference.
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Yesterday I realized the water pump drive pulley has a bigger diameter on the '85 motor than the '90. About an inch. Only way the belt from the '90 will work is if the '90 pump pulley is used too. That would speed up the water pump (I think) but I could also use the '90 pump so it should be fine. Just like to know why the diameter is different.
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Different year and engine but this pic shows what I have in mind for dress up purposes. Mine will have finned valve covers, a different air cleaner and more accessories cluttering up the of the engine but I favor the painted intake on this 289. The look reminds me that it was easy to just replace the valve covers and air cleaner with shiny stuff so that's all most guys did under their hoods back in the day. Some were more adventurous though. One guy I knew had a 2 barrel 307 '70 Camaro. He put a dual intake/carbs on the Camaro with the stock 307 heads and cam. It would barely stay ahead of its own trunk lid. He had to gently ease into the throttle. If he stepped on the gas any harder it would flood and stall. Not what you want in a 1/4 mile contest.
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Discussion Starter · #205 ·
Did some more block prep on the 5.0 yesterday. Not gonna be ready in time to paint it outdoors. Most of the day involved weed whacking and other outdoor chores. The paint stripper I have now isn't nearly as effective as what I'm used to. Doesn't even sting if I get it on myself. It's better than the 'environmentally friendly' crap I bought previously though.

I have pretty simple taste. Other than the wheels and possibly a functional hood scoop you won't see anything on my Splash other than the paint job. Don't like a lot of accessories and other stuff that doesn't do anything useful. The owner of this Vette installed 3 of the things I dislike. Window slats, ground effects and wings. It looks so cheezy it should be painted orange.
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I must admit the above mods are a lot better than this one though.
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