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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
The short water pump is sitting on the intake here. Still has to be cleaned and re-painted light Ford blue. I'm gonna paint the short inner and outer parts of the pump separately and install them after I do the block, intake and heads. I put the inner half of the original long shaft water pump back on temporarily so no paint will get in areas I don't want it to when I do the block and heads, like the mounting faces where the gaskets go and on the time gear/chain etc. The old pump base will eventually come off and be replaced by the short water pump base. Some guys might think I'm fussing too much with this engine. All I can say is, I really like this sort of work and I have the time to do it ..so why wouldn't I?

Gotta get the frost plugs (somewhere!) so I can finish the motor up and then do some JD and Club Car work before I start working on the auto trans for the Splash. Got some other stuff to do too, like building an outer shell for Homie the barn cat's nifty insulated Coleman cooler house. My wife found that idea on a web site about feral cats. I cut a small opening in the end of it for him to get in and out. The outer shell will also have a doorway, sort of like an entry way on an old school house, and the shell will be insulated too. Any cozier and a deadly fart will do him in :D.
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$8 for a can of good spray paint used to be a lot of $$, I just picked up a can of Yellow at the local Deere store, it was $12.
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
The JD dealer where I go wanted $22 for a can of black muffler paint about 2 months ago. JD Blitz, yellow and green were about 18 bucks CDN each, so about 12 bucks in US currency.
 

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Discussion Starter · #264 ·
Finally got a couple frost plugs yesterday and replaced the one with a hole in it. It was so thin the chisel punched right through it on the first poke. So I'm gonna order enough to do them all while they're easy to get to. Amazon wants $34 for the same package vs only $16 buying direct from Summit. Amazon claims the shipping is free but obviously it ain't.. I'm gonna replace the rear crank seal before I paint the engine too.
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So.. now it's iffy on using the stock Explorer headers. I drilled out all 4 bolts where the exhaust pipes bolt to them, then I removed what was left of the gaskets on the flanges where they bolted to the heads. Should have peeled the old gaskets off first because I'm not liking what I see. There's some pitting and other issues that weren't apparent before. Could be repaired but I might use the new swap kit headers instead. No problem with doing that but I liked the idea of using the factory Explorer headers. Nice to have an alternative.
 
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Army, are those your old kitchen cabinets in your garage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #267 ·
Yup. A lady I know in town was renovating her kitchen and sold them to me for $50. Gotta paint them a proper shop color yet (something that isn't white). I'll get to it. Eventually. I mounted them up high out of the way and use them for stuff I don't need that often. If I do want something I just grab my little 3 ft tall step ladder.

Voila! The block, heads and intake are blue now. Not keen on how Duplicolor paint sprays. There's too much volume even using a light touch. Or more volume than I'm accustomed to anyway. Makes it harder to mist on the first couple coats and runs pretty easy. Seems like the only way to fog it on is to stay back quite a ways but there's quite a bit of overspray that way. I was lucky it was warm enough to open the bay door and move the engine around so I was always shooting paint towards the great outdoors. Had the back door open too and the breeze was just right for making the paint drift out the bay door. My little 1/2 N was hiding under an old blanket just in case though. JD (Valspar) paint is really good for applying light coats. Nozzle is different. Same with Tremclad and the Home Hardware brand I use. They'll go on nice and light too.
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Was a bugger to get paint into all the nooks and crannies but I'm happy with the intake being blue. Has a nostalgic look (in my eyes anyway). Back in the day I'd pull an intake off an engine just so I could paint it a light grey aluminum looking color. Now I favor using the block and head color on them. The intake has a somewhat pebbly surface and the paint looks a bit like that too, from some angles anyway. The paint is actually really smooth though. It's kinda like how gloss black always (always!) emphasizes rust pitting. This intake is aluminum and had no corrosion at all though. It's just the factory finish making it look that way.
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Today's task is to paint both the inner and outer water pump components. The inner part of the pump also serves as a timing chain/cam/crank gear cover. It basically does the same job as the closure plate on a K532. Gotta replace the crank seal too.

The old oil pan was still on it for painting purposes and the inner half of the original water pump is on there too to stop paint from getting on the timing chain and gears. I'm actually using the Explorer piece though. I'm also using the aluminum oil pan from the V8 Explorer engine. I cleaned and prepped it and shot it med gloss black a couple months ago. I might paint it blue instead. Otherwise once the engine is in the truck the black pan will basically blend in the other freshly painted black parts under there and disappear. I like some contrast so I can eyeball stuff better.
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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
Some of these parts won't be used. The black aluminum pan will be getting installed though. Also the engine mounts, the distributor and the starter. Can't use the power steering pump or alternator with the short Explorer mounts. I have quite a few surplus SBF parts that will likely sit on a shelf till I go to the big shop in the sky. I hate selling stuff. Not because I want to keep everything. Just don't care for the nonsense that goes along with listing items. I had a guy offer me a hundred bucks for my 1200 Cub Cadet the other day. It's actually a really good mower with a rust free deck and an excellent K301 in it, and I'm only asking $550. I'll keep the Kohler and sell the rest for parts if I can't get that much. Also the ad clearly states I'm not interested in offers. Lowball jerks like that tick me off so I replied and said if I was gonna practically give it away it wouldn't be to a dipsh*t like you. No response so far. Last time I reacted like that it turned out to be a friend of dad's who only lives a few miles from me. He knew who I was before he made the offer and was just trying to spin me up. It worked too :p
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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
No idea why they're made this way but this air cleaner design is what was used on some of the early Bronco's back in the day. Reminds me of the sideways EFI intake setup on various 80's/90's Ford 5.0's, which I'm not keen on. Don't hate it. I just prefer symmetry for things like that.
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Discussion Starter · #270 · (Edited)
I did some more painting yesterday. Ran into a frustrating problem. The paint I used on the block/heads/intake isn't the same shade as what I used on the outer water pump and inner water pump/timing cover. You can't see it in the pics but there's definitely a color mis-match. And it definitely bugs me. The paint brand is Duplicolor. All 6 cans I bought have the exact same part number and bar code and are labelled as 'Ford Medium Blue'. The caps on all 6 cans match exactly too. The label is a bit different looking on the can I used for the water pump and timing cover though and has 'ceramic' in the wording. It's actually the particular shade of blue I wanted. My wife and son both said nobody will notice it at all when it's in the truck. They're right, but I can see it. So now it's a case of does it aggravate me enough to repaint the block and heads? I estimate I have just enough of the 'ceramic' blue I prefer to do it. Always something.. always always.

Paint color issues aside, it's a pretty dramatic improvement over what the motor looked like before. The aluminum Explorer oil pan I'm using is loosely bolted to the engine. The brass frost plugs haven't come in yet. When they do I'm gonna punch all 8 of the old ones out and put the new ones in. No gaskets are installed yet (except the heads). That's the next step. So far it's just a mock up so I can deal with anything I don't like. The mismatched shades of blue for example :mad:.

Before:
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After:
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Another issue is the intake. Not a problem with the paint or how it was applied. The aluminum intake had a pebbly rough-ish cast looking finish and the shiny paint has really emphasized that (which is why I prefer semi-gloss finishes in most cases). It looks like the 2nd coat was applied several hours after the first coat had flash dried and started curing, then the 2nd coat softened the 1st coat up and partially dissolved it and the paint ended up a gummy looking mess. That's a rookie mistake and not the case here. Really bugs me. No going back on it. The paint will have been absorbed by the aluminum to the point where it's impossible to strip it back to the natural finish. I'm gonna try painting my way out of it by shooting a few more coats to hopefully smooth out how it looks. Probably won't work but I'm gonna try it anyway. It actually looks worse in person than it does in the pic.
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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
This pic shows the oil filter adapter. Two braided rubber lines will run to the remote part of the adapter. I mounted the one on my first '96 Splash beside the rad. The adapter I'm using this time can be used in a double filter configuration. Not sure if I'll do that. It's not a 10K engine. Just a good used 302 with about 210 HP. It's basically the same bone stock carb'd 5.0 HO engine my '90 Ranger had in it. That motor was originally in a Capri though. The '90 had 3:73 gears and would break the tires loose in 4th on a wet road.

The oil pressure sender is just above the filter adapter. I wire wheeled it, then buffed it and shot it with satin clear. Poor man's chrome. It actually looks pretty good though. Better than the adapter actually. The distributor shaft and vacuum advance will be getting the same treatment. Just needs the polishing finished up. It's a real PITA to do all the little nooks and crannies. The valve covers will either be re-sandblasted to improve the appearance and then cleared, or I might paint them semi gloss black and shine the fins up.
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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
Next task will be cleaning, prepping and painting the short accessories and mounts, as needed. Not gonna put them on till the engine is in and bolted down though. Will have the harmonic balancer off too. It can be done but it's kinda in the way when dropping the engine in and it will be easy to install afterward. Same with the headers. I'll lay them on the frame on both sides and bolt them on after the engine is dropped in.

I found some lacquer paint that looks like a brass finish. It's pretty good for things I don't want to look painted even if they actually are painted. Not a heat paint. Too much of it would look cheezy. It's best for smaller parts. This hose guide bracket is actually a little too big but it'll disappear when the air cleaner is on anyway.
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The temp sender on the bottom left is brass that has been wire wheeled. Looks the same as the painted bracket though.
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Discussion Starter · #273 · (Edited)
I stripped the engine and gave the block, heads and intake a couple coats of the shade of Ford blue I like the best. About a 1/4 can left for touch ups. I have 4 new cans of the slightly different blue. I don't like it as much so that figures. The pebbly look is still there but at least everything is the same blue now. My wife wanted to know why that bugged me and I said would you paint 3 walls in a room one color and the 4th a shade different? She pointed out one wall of the living room has been a different shade than the other three for a couple years now. So I changed the subject. :D

Note how the color of the breather and the blue on the engine look really different in this pic but they're exactly the same.
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I have to get after the valve covers now. Was gonna do the gaskets first but it ain't the first time I changed my mind on this project. And it won't be the last. I spent most of my life doing things in an organized fashion. So when I retired I said screw that. I just do whatever comes to mind now. And sometimes nothing does.. :p
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I dug out the plug wires off my '90 Mustang and cleaned them up. They were pretty dirty but came out really nice with Simple Green. Not keen on colored wires. I prefer grey or black so they blend in better. You seldom see plug wires that are nice and neat so it's best not to emphasize them. Used to have the exact opposite opinion. The Who summed it up in one of my favorite tunes, 'Seasons change and so do I. You need not wonder why'.
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Another shot of the motor when I brought it home. No corrosion to speak of but man was it oily and generally scruffy. I have quite a bit of time invested in just cleaning it up.
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Kinda looks like it might fit in my golf cart don't it? :p
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I really like doing motor makeovers. One of the most gratifying things I do in the shop.
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And voila!
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New distributor cap and rotor yesterday. Had them on the shelf.
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Discussion Starter · #274 ·
I keep reminding myself it isn't too late yet to do the EFI instead. Not until I buy the carb and I can still do it later if I want. Gonna get the engine ready to run a carb so if I do give the EFI a shot and have any trouble with it I can just switch directions. I'm gonna put a pair of cats and oxy sensors in the exhaust no matter which way I go. I kept the cats off the Explorer. Should still be good (?). No etests now but I still have to get the Splash certified as roadworthy and they're fussy on emissions equipment being present. Even if I use a carb I'm gonna clean up and restore the EFI parts to their former glory this winter. I did that to the '90 5.0 fuel injection set up so why not do it again? Like I said I really like doing this kind of thing and I have the time. Will be at least 5 months before any outdoor work has to be done again. Unless we have a butt kicker winter.
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Lots of wires and hoses and gadgetry. The intake(s) and related metal components will have to be sandblasted and clear coated. Will also need new fuel rails and likely injectors. A carb is about the same cost as injectors.
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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
'90 5.0 intake and related components blasted and painted with a grey cast finish.

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
Frost plugs arrived yesterday from Summit. They sent a fresh catalog too. I prefer using the internet version but the paper copy will be good for the men's room.

The block is painted so it will be obvious the frost plugs are all new, not corroded old ones that have just been glossed over. Same with installing new gaskets after everything is painted separately. I like that it will obvious they were all replaced by looking at the seams between the parts. Another plus for painting the parts first, instead of after they're all bolted together, is there won't be any fish eyes caused by gasket goo. It takes very little silicone to screw things up and it's really hard to get rid of.

Once everything is ready to assemble I'm gonna strip the engine down to the block and heads again and methodically do the gaskets. So much easier to sit on a stool and work away comfortably while the motor is still on the engine stand vs after it's in the truck. Another bonus is I can rotate the engine 90 deg to do the frost plugs and 180 deg to install the new rear seal and oil pan gaskets.

I wire wheeled the intake bolts yesterday. Gotta clear coat or paint them yet. Either that or get new ones.
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I'm gonna clean, prep and paint the short accessories this week. The PS pump, AC pump, alternator, pulleys and mounts all have to be done yet. Mounts will get blasted and then clear coated or painted. Depends on how well the blasting goes. One idler pulley is bad. Still works but won't keep spinning freely if I give it a good whirl.

The distributor has to be set up yet too. I know how to do that but haven't done for quite a while so I'm gonna jog my memory. All hail youtube!
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Discussion Starter · #278 ·
Got the frost plugs done. Tool an hour or so to punch the old ones out, clean up the holes and install the new ones. I wasn't exactly working at top speed. More like dog'n it.

After I painted the PS mount black and stuck it on the head I realized I don't need it for the short accessories from the Explorer 5.0. It's off the 5.0 that was in my '90 Mustang. I actually cleaned and prepped it a long time ago. It's all dressed up with no place to go now.

Left side. I don't like the oil pressure sender sticking out like that. That's the way it is on all the 5.0 motors I've seen though. Must be a reason Ford did it that way.
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Right side..
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So .. now I have a motor mount/header issue. The right side header hits the mount as shown in the pic. The headers and mounts are from the same kit. You'd think they'd have noticed there's a problem. I bought the kit years ago from Summit so no recourse there. Now I have to decide whether to use a torch to massage the header pipe or cut the corner off the engine mount, or maybe both. If I cut it the mount the rubber absorber will be directly exposed to exhaust heat and the contact point is right where the header collector starts so it would be hard to re-shape the mount. An alternative is to fix the issues with the original Explorer headers and use them.
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Discussion Starter · #279 · (Edited)
If I did use the EFI everything I've done to the engine so far would disappear under the intake and various hoses and wires. The valve covers would go incognito too. They're pretty much invisible so Ford stopped painting the engine block and heads when they went with EFI.
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My '90 Mustang engine (this pic) was pretty rusty but not much pitting. The Explorer block and heads were really bad though. The sharp edges were even crumbled off. Ford painted the '85 block and heads. Had a bit of surface rust but nothing serious.
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'96 Explorer engine..
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Edit: added another pic of the '96 5.0. Pretty bad ain't it.
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Discussion Starter · #280 ·
Man there's a lot of small stuff to clean up. The hose assembly and wiring harness on the right is for the AC. Connects to the pump/compressor. Won't be hard to make it look good again. Just time consuming. The starter is off the '96 5.0. It cleaned up not too bad but I'm gonna buy a new one anyway. I think still have one for the '90 5.0 somewhere but if I do it's doing a great job of hiding. I have two complete sets of 5.0 accessories and mounts I can't use with the short '96 5.0 accessories. As my F-I-L would say, "Damn ting it is!"
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