Weekend Freedom Machines banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

· Registered
1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
Joined
·
854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My gauges for the b came this afternoon. I'm very impressed with the packaging.
Wood Food Ingredient Flooring Basket


My gauges were rusty inside and only the amp gauged worked.......to a point
Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Bumper


It's a little bit of a tight squeeze but got room to work. If I pulled off the choke lever I'd gain more room but why?

Green Gas Tints and shades Automotive lighting Electrical wiring


I got the amp gauge installed. I'm very impressed it has 2 options for 2 different plug or prong hook ups.
Automotive lighting Green Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Fender

What a huge difference that makes. Now I might have to look for nicer switches to match since I have everything appart. Hopefully I win a steiner gift card for their photo contest. A nice chrome stack would match these well.

I ran out of energy before doing the oil pressure and temperature gauge.

I'm guessing I'll have to drain some of the coolant out to put in the new sender? I've read on different fourms if the engine is cold and there's no pressure you can do it fast enough you'll lose maybe a table spoon of coolant. Or you can drain a qaurt or 2 just to get it below the sender.
 

· Registered
1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
Joined
·
854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Wow what a difference, that will look amazing after you change the other two. Working gauges are a plus too. Nice job, post more pics as you progress!
Thanks. Definitely will. I'll try to go out in the shop tonight and finish the project. I figured if I'm going to be playing /working with the tractor more I want to make sure everything is good on it and in normal readings.
 

· Registered
1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
Joined
·
854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice work...looks good. What kind of switches?
Thanks. I was thinking of just newer better looking toggle switches. Not original set up but doesn't bother me at all. If I add a field light I'd get a 3 way switch. With that said my cell phone is brighter than both lights and don't plan on doing any night work.

If I really wanted to get fancy and ruffle some feathers I was thinking about something like these. Green for start up and yellow for the lights.
Liquid Light Product Font Bottle cap
 

· Registered
1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
Joined
·
854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Fwiw, I tried a couple of those toggles with the light like you have pictured in a truck I had many years ago. The light was a neat feature until the second week when it quit working.
Thanks for the info. I was concerned about that. I was looking at some nerf bars for my truck with built in leds for running lights and turn singles. The dealer said something very similar. They're cool when they work. It's like a dvd vcr player. 2 features in one, but with in time only one will actually function.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,676 Posts
On the temp gage, you would have to run it a while just to get up to 160. Unless the shutters are closed, it may not even get to 180 just driving around. Pulling a plow or disk can bring it up there though.
A caution my Pap gave me a long time ago was to keep an eye on the temp when working hard. If it gets up to 200, drop down a gear and it will cool back down after a while. Make sure the temp is back to 180 or below before shutting the engine off. Shutting it off when over heated can crack the head or maybe warp a valve. This note might even be in the operators manual.
I'm proud of you for wanting to get some new "working" gages on it. Don't need no stinking red lights or check engine light. Those three gages tell you just what you need to know, right?

tommyhawk
 

· Registered
1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
Joined
·
854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
On the temp gage, you would have to run it a while just to get up to 160. Unless the shutters are closed, it may not even get to 180 just driving around. Pulling a plow or disk can bring it up there though.
A caution my Pap gave me a long time ago was to keep an eye on the temp when working hard. If it gets up to 200, drop down a gear and it will cool back down after a while. Make sure the temp is back to 180 or below before shutting the engine off. Shutting it off when over heated can crack the head or maybe warp a valve. This note might even be in the operators manual.
I'm proud of you for wanting to get some new "working" gages on it. Don't need no stinking red lights or check engine light. Those three gages tell you just what you need to know, right?

tommyhawk
Thanks for the advice. I was taught something similar when hauling a heavy trailer with a diesel. To let it idle a couple of minutes before shutting down for the same reasons. I'm not too concerned about my field cultivator but could feel it on the plow in 2nd. Granted I was probably too deep.

Yup my same exact thoughts, and I want to know what's going on . I'm " farming" like 1950 so if that stuff got everyone by then, it should get me by.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,351 Posts
Thanks for the advice. I was taught something similar when hauling a heavy trailer with a diesel. To let it idle a couple of minutes before shutting down for the same reasons. I'm not too concerned about my field cultivator but could feel it on the plow in 2nd. Granted I was probably too deep.

Yup my same exact thoughts, and I want to know what's going on . I'm " farming" like 1950 so if that stuff got everyone by then, it should get me by.
And if it’s Tubro’d a lot of it is to keep the turbine from attempting to join the rest of the engine from uneven cooling (and I think oil temp/lubrication also plays a role)
 

· Registered
1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
Joined
·
854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
A word of caution and I should know this but you get what you pay for. These ebay gauges are junk and the customer service from the seller bellaspareparts was a joke. He didn't like I knew my facts and sent him pictures of a mechics gauge reading oil pressure. He tried to give me 6.00 as a refund to go away, then said he'd send me a new gauge for 2.00. After going back in fourth he said the gauge was set up for 45psi and It's my fault I have them installed on the wrong tractor.........they were advertised for a b, and b's are for 25 psi but nowhere in the ad did he say the psi. He said he got one re calibrated for me but wanted me to repay for the labor and shipping. I said no. The amp gauge dances back and fourth and plowing his temp gauge never moved past 140. He advertised free returns but claimed he couldn't send a shipping label. He also said to give him 200.00 and he'd find me legit gauges that worked.....He requested I canceled my return request and a bad review and I said not until the problem is fixed.........if you cancel your return request ebay can't step in. Ebay stepped in and I got my money back and got to keep the useless gauges.

I ended up buying a new oil pressure gauge in the process to get the tractor useable. Now the problem is to try to find good chrome bezel white face gauges to match that one.

Leason learned buy from a legit dealer and you get what you pay for. Don't be afraid to keep saying no if you're not happy. If I would've gave in I would've lost more money, or ended up with 6.00 back in my pocket and 3 junkie gauges.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top