[rustyknuckles]

This thread is a pointer to a "wanted to buy" ad I just posted, for someone who could machine for me a set of clutch spacers. If you can help, please look at that ad for dimensions and specs. Or if you have other ideas as to how to do this mounting, I'd like to hear those as well.

Thanks!

 

[mikeduwe]

Jay, what engine spec Kohler are you using?

There are 2 different styles of closure plates on the kohlers, ones where the bolt face is smooth, and ones where there is a pilot circle cut into them. You would like a smooth one, but I think you can make either work as long as your holes in the clutch line up. I believe I had to file or drill the clutch holes out just a touch to work with the bolts needed for the Kohlers.

My experience(2 complete repowers) is that you need a spacer between the shoulder(actually a chamfer on the Kohler 1 7/16" crankshaft) and the clutch itself, and then a long one after the clutch to take up the extra length of the crankshaft that sticks out of the clutch. That one all depends on what length of crank you have. And you want it a bit longer than the extension so you get clamp load.

If you make the one behind the clutch too narrow, the magnetic coil rubs on the clutch and it fries itself. My 420 repower I made the spacer myself, but with the chamfer not shoulder on the crank, when I tightened the big bolt on the end of the crank with an impact I smooshed the spacer more and after a few hours of running the clutch failed. Next time I hand tightened it.

These guys sell the spacer you need for behind the clutch:

http://www.pruittoutdoorpower.com/

Some times when you call they will only want to sell you the whole kit, other times they will sell you just the spacers. Maybe Barry is the guy to talk to, been several years now.


Piece of cake right?

 

[rustyknuckles]

Mike -
My engine has the pilot circle cut into the mounting face. That means I need four small washers or spacers to fill out the pilot circle, and make a flat space for the clutch plate. Those are no problem, as I can make them without needing a lathe.

My engine does have the chamfer, and I am aware of the need to not tighten the big bolt too much.

I don't plan on doing this -- but I wonder if a longer spacer with a 1.5" ID, that seated against the inner race of the crankshaft bearing would work.

As for Pruitt, I am leery about asking for a product that they do not advertise, and which (evidently) has not sold for several years. Does someone at Pruitt follow this site?

 

[rustyknuckles]

BTW, my electrical plan is to dispense with the JD ignition switch altogether, and replace it with the comparable Kohler switch. This switch is used on engine models for which the switch is mounted in the fan housing. (mine doesn't have that, just a plug for the switch) Kohler also sells a multi-wire "extension cord" to connect such a switch to the plug at the housing. I just have to figure out how to tap the JD safety interlocks into that.

 

[rustyknuckles]

I called Pruitt. They said their kit ONLY worked with a special spec 20 HP Kohler, could not possibly work with my engine (a 27 hp), etc etc. without a lot of cutting and hacking, and did not think it worthwhile to sell me their kit.

Now, I know that OTHERS have successfully done what I want to do. So I just need to find somebody to make me some spacers!

 

[mikeduwe]

The whole kit only works with a certain spec, but the crankshaft spacer for behind the clutch will work with any Kohler 1 7/16" crankshaft.

In the past I was able to buy their mounting feet and spacer for my first repower, the second I just bought the spacers because I made the feet myself. But one time I called they didnt want to sell individaul parts, so that might have been why I made a spacer myself first.

 

[craft57]

Jay : So Which Crankshaft Do You Have ???

If you can give us a definitive answer , we can probably Help you …

Mike, is correct about the crank-case mounting pattern …. when I did my 318 Kohler re-power, with the 1-7/16" crankshaft, other than the PTO clutch being up-side down from the Onan, it bolted directly on to the case (with spacers) ………

Shimming the clutch was very important …… If you have the same configuration as mine, I have pics c/w measurements that I could send you …. it's not a matter of over tightening the centre Bolt, But more of spacing the bearing tight in the clutch on the crankshaft properly, and then tighten it up to spec …. if it is off of it's working position the clutch will drag or worse flex the disc put pressure on the disc and burn it out ….. but once the proper spacing is found it's a piece of cake !!! …. it has to free spin with NO End load !!!

Let us know exactly what you've got (besides the pedestal circle pattern you already mentioned) …… I'd be happy to send you those pics ….. Cheers …. GK

 

[shadetree]

Any reason you wouldn't want to post your pictures for all of us to see?

 

[rustyknuckles]

For anyone else interested in this type of Kohler re-engine project, I tweaked the spacer dimensions slightly from what I first posted in the "wanted to buy" section:
1) Back spacer: 1-7/16” ID (snug not loose hand fit onto crankshaft) 1.740” to 1.750” OD. And 5/16” thick (+/- 0.010”)
2) Middle shim: 1-7/16” ID 1.740” to 1.750” OD and 0.058” to 0.060” thick. (this one is a fairly tight spec)
3) Washer: 1-7/16” ID 2.125” to 2.250” OD and 1/8” thick (+/- 0.020”)
4) Crank spacer: 1-7/16” ID 1.740” to 1.750” OD and 1.250” thick (+/- 0.020”)
The back spacer goes on under the clutch, up against the slight bumpout on the PTO shaft. The other three go outside the clutch, to accommodate the fact that the pto shaft is longer than the clutch depth.

 

[craft57]

Shady : ….. No reason at all …… just a big pain in the back side to try and post pics here …… have tried before with NO Luck at all …..

 

[mikeduwe]

Again, why do you think you need #2 and #3 in the middle? Who told you that? Is there a thread about it?

 

[rustyknuckles]

Mike -
If you chose to have your crank spacer push directly on the clutch, that's fine with me. I didn't.
The original point of this thread was to get sources for machining spacers, which I believe I have now found. If, when I've done it my way, the clutch falls off, I'll let you know. But I don't think it will.

**When you go to the grocery store for a pound of hamburger, do you want to have an argument from some other customer that you ought to buy chicken or fish instead?**

 

[craft57]

For those That Care !!! (and possibly the ones that buy Fish & Chicken ….LMAO !!!) ………. I was able to finally upload a Pic to this Site …… This is the simple way I did the clutch spacers on my CH22 Kohler C/W a 1-7/16" crankshaft PTO end …… it has since clocked over 100hrs with this install pattern of shims & spacers ……..Hope this may help the Ones that have simple tools to reproduce the parts required ……. Cheers …. GK ……. Ps : "LOVE The New Site Format !!!"

Shady : ….. No reason at all …… just a big pain in the back side to try and post pics here …… have tried before with NO Luck at all …..

 

[rustyknuckles]

For what it's worth -- I have already received my set of spacers similar to those in the picture above, and they are awaiting warmer weather (and NO SNOW !!) so that I can get on with things mechanical. The original grumble from Mike - that spacers #s 2 and 3 are superfluous - may well be correct. Or maybe not, if the inner spacer inside the bearing of the outer part of the clutch ever comes loose. In my case, I figured that it was belt-and-suspenders to do it with the extra parts, so that's what I did.

Anyway, one good outcome from this was that I found and got to do business with an excellent local machinist in Massachusetts who does small order stuff like this quickly and at a reasonable cost. So, anybody in this area who needs stuff like this done, please get in touch with me and I'll pass on his info.

 

[craft57]

Because it's so much easier to post Pics now …… Here are a few pics of the installed Sequence of spacers & shims ( As Built ) Unfortunately in reverse order …. LOL ….. enjoy !!! …….. Best viewed from bottom to top ….. Final Installation of Bolt and washers (Torqued into place)…...

Outer Collar (spacer) 1-7/16" I.D. installed …… I made slightly longer than necessary to compensate for the re-used Kohler Centre Bolt, to prevent it from bottoming out in the Crankshaft, before bolt Torque

Outer Large Hard Washer diameter was slightly reduced to clear the inner Diameter of the Bearing retainer Snap-Ring (as seen)

Then Clutch followed by "Thin Shim" (to compensate for the gap between the inner OEM Clutch collar & Bearing race) …. And the larger Hard Washer 1-7/16" I.D.

1st Spacer installed (2-pics)