I have a 1992 JD 322 with the Yanmar engine. I am sure the alternator's bearings are starting to seize. I am wanting to take it off and have it rebuilt but not have to replace the belt which admittedly is in poor shape. In case the belt gave way after the alternator is replaced what is the experiance of anyone who has used an industrial strength half inch link belt as a replacement for the stock JD fan/alternator belt? I have read numerous posts that indicate that a belt replacement is at least a 4 hour frustrating job. That would be a minimum $500 job at a JD dealer and potentially a disaster if I start the job and then take it to the dealer - and all for a $10 fan belt. It may be heresy but what say the experts?
Alternator and Belt on JD 322 (Link Belt Replacement?)
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Search for this topic in the Hydrostatic Forum...plenty of good info there, and tips on changing the belt.
Try this - 322 Fan Bet Replacement
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Belt drives off the drive shaft, you have to unbolt the DS coupler.
It's not that frustrating, especially if you've removed the radiator before. There just aren't any shortcuts.
I believe that you can unbolt the isolator from the drive shaft and engine, unbolt engine mounts and move the engine forward just enough to get the belt through there. Or remove the fender pan, loosen bolts on drive shaft at transmission, take bolts out to remove isolator and put on new belt.
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Yeah the isolator is 6 challenging bolts vs, the other suggestions with many more parts removals. I don't think the rear of the DS would give you enough room.
I think to move the engine you would have to unbolt the isolator anyway.
I'm tellin' ya, I don't think there are any shortcuts on this one.
ETA: can anyone think of a reason why one of the linkbelts wouldn't work? I think it sounds like the OP should try one and report back. It would certainly be easy compared to the regular belt.
I think to move the engine you would have to unbolt the isolator anyway.
I'm tellin' ya, I don't think there are any shortcuts on this one.
ETA: can anyone think of a reason why one of the linkbelts wouldn't work? I think it sounds like the OP should try one and report back.
It would certainly be easy compared to the regular belt.You would have to loosen the rear of drive shaft to be able to take the isolator out. Yes, the six bolts holding the isolator in are fun to deal with. I restored my 330 8 years ago and have just about forgotten how much "fun" it was to deal with the
isolator.
isolator.
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Well, theres a few shortcuts.
Leave bottom rad hose attached to rad when removing. Yes, it can be done relatively easily, just slide shroud back over fan, tight to engine.
Slide rad out left side. No need to remove fan blade.
I didnt remove driveshaft or engine, just bolts for coupler and moved to the side. Gave just enough to get new belt in.
If I ever need to do it again, I'll put the tractor up on stands and get the coupler from underneath.
I didnt last time cause I was replacing the steering valve, a year ago was a learning experience. It's not that difficult, just takes a little time.
Wiz, bang, boom, its done!
Easy peasy, lol.
Leave bottom rad hose attached to rad when removing. Yes, it can be done relatively easily, just slide shroud back over fan, tight to engine.
Slide rad out left side. No need to remove fan blade.
I didnt remove driveshaft or engine, just bolts for coupler and moved to the side. Gave just enough to get new belt in.
If I ever need to do it again, I'll put the tractor up on stands and get the coupler from underneath.
I didnt last time cause I was replacing the steering valve, a year ago was a learning experience. It's not that difficult, just takes a little time.
Wiz, bang, boom, its done!
Easy peasy, lol.
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I just replaced mine. It’s not that bad. You just remove the radiator, shroud and drive shaft isolator. It takes a few hours. But since you have it out you might as well clean the radiator really well and degrease the engine. I enjoyed it.
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Thank you!
Thank you!
No one said link belts wouldn't work so I'm up to the lesser challenge and will try the link belt. It may be a while till I get back. Training seaon has started for my bird dogs and my grass is mostly dead from drought here in Kansas.Yeah the isolator is 6 challenging bolts vs, the other suggestions with many more parts removals. I don't think the rear of the DS would give you enough room.
I think to move the engine you would have to unbolt the isolator anyway.
I'm tellin' ya, I don't think there are any shortcuts on this one.
ETA: can anyone think of a reason why one of the linkbelts wouldn't work? I think it sounds like the OP should try one and report back.
Actually you asked if anyone has experience using industrial half inch link belt, and no one responded. I have a feeling most on here would rather put a john deere belt one on, especially if your going through all that work of removing and replacing the radiator.
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I absolutely prefer John Deere belts over a link belt. As a Refrigeration/ Boiler Mechanic I can say link belts don’t do a great job. They’re okay if you’re in a real pinch and it’s a very temporary replacement. But you won’t get proper tension and I doubt you’ll get a proper fit so you’ll likely be causing improper wear and grooves on your pulleys making new problems.
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That's just the issue. I don't want to take the radiator out. It's my understanding that with a link belt I could replace/repair the alternator and put the link belt on with no additional work that most posters indicated would test my patience to the tune of 4 hours and the use of a can of Kroil Penetrating Oil on those 6 bolts!
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Some food for thought concerning these link belts.
These temporary repairs usually become permanent. But, if you decide to sell your tractor, it can become an issue. If I were to see that type of Micky mouse repair on a tractor, the asking price is immediately chopped in half or more. If a simple mantience item, like this belt is done in this fashion, what else is skipped over?
These temporary repairs usually become permanent. But, if you decide to sell your tractor, it can become an issue. If I were to see that type of Micky mouse repair on a tractor, the asking price is immediately chopped in half or more. If a simple mantience item, like this belt is done in this fashion, what else is skipped over?
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I don’t want to sound rude, critical or harsh in any way. Bubble gum to fix a leak in a radiator will leave you stranded on the side of the road. If the belt is worn, most likely the isolator is cracked (you can’t see it till you take it out). If that thing comes apart when running the driveshaft will do potentially thousands of dollars of damage. Also the radiator can be cleaned at the same time by you or a shop. The most important maintenance on the tractor s are the charging system and the cooling system and this is directly related to the fan belt, alternator, radiator. I highly recommend going through everything the right way no matter how much time it takes!!! Well walk you through it step by step. This tractor will take care of you for many many years if you take care of it! B
I understand your position. It has already served me well and has 2,700 hours on it. I have had all work done at a local JD dealer including a recent power steering hydraulic column and other leaks. My wife is a little irritated that a machine made in 1992 can break down! The 322 is an awesome machine, I can't believe what it has done for me, especially with the front end loader I had adapted for it.
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