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1990 332,

YES, it is the same... The PDF file I attached is for all of the 330, 322 and 332 tractors ( all those with Yanmar engines in this frame size...) If you open it you will see the text from Deere. The file name is what I added for my files, as I owned two of the 322 machines.

I no longer have any of these tractors as I am retired onto a very small residential lot. Sorry I don't have pictures. Using the pictures f the relay and harness you posted:
1. the red wire with the ring terminal should be connected to the solenoid terminal where the battery cable attaches.
2. the black wire with the other ring terminal should connect to chassis ground -- use the voltage regulator mount hardware.
3. cut the green wire going to the regulator about mid span to where it comes out of the tractor harness.
4. splice the purple wire from the relay socket with the male connector to the green wire out of the regulator.
5. splice the remaining purple wire from the relay to the wire from the tractor harness that originally connected to the green wire of the regulator.

Hope this helps. The most important thing is to NOT USE the instructions that came with the relay kit, as these apply to the starter improvement application. Use instead the instructions that are contained in the bulletin which I attached as a PDF to my last post.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I'm confused with numbers 4 and 5..am I supposed to cut the connectors off the two purple wires and just splice them?
 

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Yes -- the connectors originally on the purple wires were specific to the starter improvement application of the kit. Your battery charging application needs these wires to connect to the cut green harness/regulator wires as described above and shown in the diagram.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Yes -- the connectors originally on the purple wires were specific to the starter improvement application of the kit. Your battery charging application needs these wires to connect to the cut green harness/regulator wires as described above and shown in the diagram.

Chuck
Ok..it's making sense now lol..what should I do about the two melted wires coming from the stator..just cut them and put new connectors on?
 

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Yes, you need to renew that part of the damaged wiring. You can use any two pin connector if you don't have the original style, just make sure the connections are sufficient for a 25 amp current. You can see how Skwirl did it on his tractor in the picture in his post #8 on the first page of this thread (the added connector is in the left portion of the shot, crossing in front of the motor mount...)

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yes, you need to renew that part of the damaged wiring. You can use any two pin connector if you don't have the original style, just make sure the connections are sufficient for a 25 amp current.

Chuck
Okay how do I know if the connections are sufficient for a 25 amp circuit? By saying connections do you mean the connectors themselves or?
 

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You don't need to ground the relay mounting point, the relay should be in a plastic case as is the socket.

Yes, I was referring to the amp rating of the contacts themselves. If you are not using the original Deere parts, at least use 1/4 inch spade type connectors in an insulated housing. If you crimp them, use a proper tool (not the cheap import pliers...) I use a ratcheting tool that ensures a valid crimp.

ratcheting crimp tool for electrical terminals.jpg


Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
You don't need to ground the relay mounting point, the relay should be in a plastic case as is the socket.

Yes, I was referring to the amp rating of the contacts themselves. If you are not using the original Deere parts, at least use 1/4 inch spade type connectors in an insulated housing. If you crimp them, use a proper tool (not the cheap import pliers...) I use a ratcheting tool that ensures a valid crimp.

View attachment 268579

Chuck
Ok the relay I bought is a Deere part..your talking if I don't use actual Deere connectors use what u described?
 

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The Deere part/relay harness does not have the splice barrels you need for this application, and as was discussed above you need to cut off the connectors that came on each purple wire (be sure to note which had the male connector, as that is the one that goes to the cut green wire coming from the regulator...)

You are also replacing/renewing the wires that were melted that are coming from the alternator...those are the insulated spade connections I was describing.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
The Deere part/relay harness does not have the splice barrels you need for this application, and as was discussed above you need to cut off the connectors that came on each purple wire (be sure to note which had the male connector, as that is the one that goes to the cut green wire coming from the regulator...)

You are also replacing/renewing the wires that were melted that are coming from the alternator...those are the insulated spade connections I was describing.

Chuck
Ok cool thanks chuck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I need an example on the 1/4inch spade type connectors I need to use. when I type it in Google I get a bunch of different ones
 

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Spade terminals come in a variety of sizes and configurations. You will need 2 types, a male and a female, SIMILAR to below:
268670

These are shown for clarity showing the male on top and the female on the bottom. These are also "non-insulated" and you should get "insulated" as shown here:
268671

"Insulated" simply refers to the connection of the 2 terminals being insulated from touching surrounding metal and possibly shorting. Another consideration is the size of the wire that they will fit. I'm not 100% certain what size wire you have coming from your alternator, but I'd use "yellow" connectors with the package being marked "#10 or #12 gauge wire". Blue is another color but is for #14-#16 wire and may not fit!
Since the alternator is producing AC voltage, it's not important as to which connector, male vs female, goes where. Crimp a connector on alternator wire and mating connector on wire going to regulator. Check charging wire FROM regulator to be sure you're getting at least 13.7 volts DC. If OK, disconnect male & female connector, smear dielectric grease into female connector, and reconnect (If you're cheap like me, Vaseline will work!). The grease keeps air away from the connectors preventing future corrosion. Connectors should be available at typical box stores...Lowe's, Home Depot, Tractor Supply, etc.

Keep asking questions if unsure, and someone will reply. Bob
 

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I used blue insulated on mine.

268673


The orientation of the wires going into the alt plug is correct also.
 
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And you did an outstanding job by adding the heat-shrink tubing (color matched!), good attention to detail.
 
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And you did an outstanding job by adding the heat-shrink tubing (color matched!), good attention to detail.
That was a practice run, lol. I got to redo it all the next day. Cause my VR was bad also. Then I put the relay in with the new VR. Re worked the terminals connection and then slide a piece of that heat reflective sleeve stuff over the alt wiring. It's right below the muffler and theres no heat shield there.
 

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Skirl, I only did one quick search, but found these at McMaster-Carr:
WideLg.,
ft.
Overall
Thick
MaterialTemperature
Range, °F
Dielectric
Strength
Voltage
Rating
Specifications MetColor Each
3/4"540.007"Fiberglass Cloth-100° to 500°Not RatedNot RatedMIL-I-19166, UL 510White7574A3119.84
1"540.007"Fiberglass Cloth-100° to 500°Not RatedNot RatedMIL-I-19166, UL 510White7574A1226.40
Wrap wires with tape to insulate from heat, up to 500º. Bob
 

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My local auto parts had the stuff. I dont remember the correct name for it. But it's a sleeve, silver on the outside. I used it for the heat resistance but also abrasion. I dont need 30 amp/ac shorted to ground, lol.
Something will happen and probably not good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
This all makes sense now but the only other question I have is how do I know they are good for a 25 amp circuit?
 
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