[flymo]

In the spirit of full disclosure, this is a repeat of a post I made in Tools, Trucks, Trailers - there doesn't seem to be much action there, so I thought I'd try with you guys. Any advice from your experience would be appreciated.

I am just starting to think about a trailer for my 455, and have had the following thoughts after looking at some trailer manufacturers sites.

Usage: Move my 455 and 40 loader between Massachusetts and Maine. On occasion, I'd like to maybe also use the trailer to take loads of brush to the transfer station to be ground up, and possibly as a general utility trailer to move household items.

Size: Standard widths seem to be either 60" or 77". Narrower is easier to move around and store, but wider would carry more brush and also allow moving the 455 with the 60" mower deck on. For length, I am thinking of 12 feet, although I guess I could go with 10 and leave the loader bucket hanging over the front or resting on the tongue.

Weight / Brakes: The 455 and loader combo goes a bit over 2000 pounds. I'd prefer to stay with a single axle trailer without brakes but I am concerned that the load plus weight of the trailer itself are getting up towards the 3500 pound limit allowed in my state. And I do tow with a big vehicle now, but if I go smaller in the future, trailer brakes might be nice. I have had bad luck with boat trailer brakes - are electric utility trailer brakes more reliable?

Deck Material: I’m thinking that wood would be the best?

Sides: Most of the utility trailers seem to come with low rails on posts. I’m not sure whether this is the way to go, though – thinking that a plain flatbed would give easier access, and with stake pockets I could add wood sides for carrying brush, even in the absence of the low rails – or do they help hold the stake sides in place?

Access: I am pretty sure I don’t want a mesh rampgate, as it will impede the unloading of brush. Possibly slide in ramps, or I wonder if a full tilting bed would make sense for loading this size of tractor.

Tiedowns: Many of the trailers I have seen don’t seem to have enough tiedowns, so I’d like to have plenty. Are these typically through-bolted through the wood deck and into the frame?

Manufacturer: I’d need to find one with a dealer within driving distance, and I’d prefer one with a full set of “a la carte” options so I didn’t have to go custom.

Any comments, or recommendations including specific manufacturers, would be appreciated.

Tim

 

[T-Mo]

Tim,
Trailers are pretty much like garages and shops - it seems like no matter what size you go with, you will find situations where whatever size you went with, was too small. I would go with a tandem axle trailer as they will pull better and be more stable/solid. I wouldn't go with a 10 foot.

As for manufacturers, PJ Trailers got good reviews here in the past. Big Tex and H & H Trailers are a couple other manufacturers that come to mind. All 3 of these have web sites that you can check out and should have dealer locations also.

 

[flymo]

Thanks Terry! I agree with you on the size thing - debating with myself, really. I did just have an expensive experience with boat trailer brakes so I'm a bit spooked with larger trailers that require brakes.

And I'm debating with myself over all the other things too, of course, especially the tilt as a viable method of loading a medium-large tractor.

I've also seen one manufacturer advertise a drop axle option - I assume that brings the deck closer to the ground, which I think would be a good thing.

Tim

 

[markks]

I've got a single axle 77" wide and 12 ft long. This trailer comes in handy and have used it for a hundred tasks. I'm not sure how I got by without it.

But I've used it to haul my 425 with 60 inch deck several times with no problems.

Do not get the large Mesh Gate/Ramp. I did, and it was a big mistake. It acts like a sail and made the truck work twice as hard. I pulled it off and had an 18" gate made and use ramps.

 

[bearman61]

Tim I have a twin axle 16' x 77" landscapers trailer with 24" square tube sides. It does have electric brakes. It has a 2 piece split mesh tailgate system with spring lift assist. I installed tie down rings to the wood plank deck. I can fit my 455/40 loader and a 54" Land Pride back blade on it. I have also transported all manner of brush and other debris on it. I did line the lower portion of the rails with 1x8 pressure treated lumber to keep small items from sliding off. I have pulled this trailer with tractor using everything from a Ford Ranger to an F-250 and the brakes make all the difference. They do require some TLC but it's worth it. As far as twin axles it makes backing a lot easier and towing at speed smoother. Hope this helps.

Barry T

 

[flymo]

Thanks guys - this is the kind of helpful information I'm looking for.

Mark, you ditched the rampgate for the same reason I don't want to get it - concerned about windage when towing. I am thinking about the same size you have - really a tossup between that and the 14 foot length.

Barry, I hear you on the brakes. From what I can see, the trailer itself is going to weigh 1000 pounds, give or take, and then with the tractor on it'll be uncomfortably close to the 3500 pound weight limit. I found one manufacturer, Diamond C, that has a trailer with a single 5000 pound axle, with electric brakes, as an option. I can see that the dual axles might be smoother on the highway, but I'm curious - why do you think they make it easier to back up? Also, can you elaborate on any maintenance you have to do with the electric brakes? I am not really familiar with these - the boat trailer we have has the hydraulic surge brakes.

Thanks!

Tim

 

[dean_mink]

TimS
I just went through this same thing this last summer. Needed a trailer and my 455 with #40 loader and 500lbs of suitcase weights would be the heaviest thing I would be hauling.
Figured a 12 foot tandem would be best so I decided to build one.
Then this one popped up for a really nice price. It's 6 1/2 x 12, 2 3500 lb axles, rear axle with brakes and sits pretty low.
It needs some work and I need to add some cross members under the decking but my 455 rig fits perfectly so 12 foot would be my suggestion.
It will be strong enough to haul what I want but not too heavy when I want to haul light stuff.

 

[tmaynard]

I would also think that having it longer would not be a bad idea in case you wanted to have a rear implement on (york rake, blade,etc).

 

[bearman61]

Tim

I can't explain the physics but the twin axle trailer is not as touchy when backing up it has less tendency to over steer. This allows you to be more precise when backing. I ran a lawn service for several years and started with a 14" single axle. When I switched to the 16' twin I was able to back into places in a lot less time. As for the brakes it's really a matter of keeping the wiring and connections clean and activating the brakes every month or so if you are not using the trailer. Remember the trailer brakes will save a lot of wear on your tow vehicles brakes.

Barry

 

[flymo]

Thanks Barry - good point on saving the tow vehicle's brakes. And now that you mention it, the boat trailer we have has two axles, and it does back pretty easily.

Dean, I just saw your pic (for some reason it posted below mine???) and the rig you have looks like the perfect size. Tom, you're right that a longer unit may be nice sometimes - as Dean points out, it's a tradeoff as you want it small enough to move around, but big enough to haul lots of stuff.

Any thoughts on the tilt deck, and whether it is practical as a means to load a 455 and 40? The reason I keep thinking about it is that it would make is easier to dump wood and junk.

Tim

 

[kencombs]

The key to backing 'twitchiness' (new word just for the occasion), is the length of the trailer, hitch to axle. And, that measurement in relation to the towing vehicle wheelbase. That's why it is so difficult to back a short hard trailer with a long tractor. As to two or one axle, it shouldn't make much difference, but most will pivot one the back axle, or at a point between the two, (see above).

I much prefer tandem axle trailers as they don't bounce as much, especially empty.

I use a 16'er to move my 455 w/60" deck.

 

[Davet]

I bought a 6'x10' trailer utility trailer prior to getting a #40. My 445 fits perfectly on there without the #40. With the #40, I measured I have about 4 inches to spare, if I adjust the three point harness so it doesn't stick out so much (temporarily remove the two arms). This doesn't leave room to balance the tongue weight, but it happens to work out.

Also, if I want to transport a back implement on it too, like a box scraper, that won't fit.

Bottom line, I think a 6x12 trailer would be perfect for a JD 4x5 with #40. Without the #40, 6x10 is ideal.

 

[flymo]

So after taking everyone's advice, and reading a lot of trailer manufacturer's websites, here's where I am:

- Size: 77" width, 12 feet in length seems ideal
- Axle: Single axle to keep the overall weight lower, but go to a 5000 GVWR, as the load capacity of a 3500 GVWR trailer is insufficient to carry the 455 / 40 once you factor in the weight of the trailer itself. I am undecided as to whether a drop axle would be helpful - it would keep the CG lower, but would also, of course, lower clearance. Definitely want electric brakes.
- Deck: wood deck, no side rails, but with stake pockets all around to allow wood sides to be added. A rub rail on the the stake pockets would be nice for additional protection.
- Access: still not clear on whether a tilt deck would be practical; if not, slide in ramps would get the nod.

Tim

 

[markks]

TimS, When I ditched the mesh Gate, I picked up a set of loading ramps from Harbor Freight. ($50) They have a capacity of 1k lbs. But I beefed it up somewhat by having the local machine shop double the gauge of metal at the top of the ramp.

I agree with a Wood Floor, Lighter and with treated lumber will still last for many years.

I'm not sure why you would want a trailer without the side rails?? They sure come in handy.

 

[flymo]

Mark, good point about the separate ramps. Some of the manufacturers don't seem to offer slide-in ramps, and that would be a way to deal with that.

The reason I was thinking to not get the side rails is simply that they'd be redundant with the wood sides that fit the stake pockets - basically, if I wanted haul brush I'd use the wood sides, and if I wanted to haul the tractor I'd use the flat deck. For what sort of hauling have you found the side rails to be helpful?

Tim

 

[markks]

TimS, I've used it a couple of times to move one of our kids to and from college. Helped move stuff out of parents storage. The sides are great for boxes, and furniture.
That and I enjoy auctions, and I never know what I might find..

 

[flymo]

That makes sense, Mark - I can see how the rails would be particularly helpful for boxes and such. Thanks for helping me think of other uses.

Tim

 

[mikeduwe]

Or the load of free gravel you got from the town yard waste site....

 

[dra2120]

I'll start by saying I haven't seen many of these build threads so hopefully this isn't a no-no.

I recently purchased an 81' 216 with electric lift, a model 47 deck, and the model 31 tiller. I also found a 37A snow thrower locally and picked that up a few months after buying the tractor.

I really like this tractor, it was made to work, and to keep working for many decades. However, it has been many decades since the machine was made, and it was starting to show its age. Only twice this summer did it mow my entire yard without breaking down. So my plan had been to slowly work on it over the winter (which in Alaska gave me alot of time) and refurbish the whole machine. Well, then I found the snow thrower and the tractor became my designated driveway clearer. So my timetable was pushed up a little and so I started the project today (8/28/14). Instead of taking the whole winter, I am now hoping to have it done by Oct. it may take a little longer, but we will definitely have sticking snow by the end of Oct. so the end of Oct. is my goal, at least for the tractor and snow thrower. The mower deck and tiller can be worked on over the winter. I originally planned to go through every nut and bolt aside from tearing down the engine, and clean, fix, and update everything. However, with my new time table I'm not sure if I will be able to go that in depth. So the journey begins, and it will be interesting to see where it ends.

How the machine looked when I got it:

The start of the tear down:

33 years of gunk (I don't think anyone has had the body off this tractor before):

How the attachments look at the time of tear down:
Model 47 mower deck:

Model 31 Tiller:
Coming soon

Model 37A Snow Thrower:
Coming soon

 

[sreynolds]

That cresent shaped hole in the deck (belt) cover is the wear indicator.

Deere designed that tensioner assy to ride up and wear into the underside of the cover to alert the operator that the bushing and or tensioner arm has worn out and/or the bearing in the idler.

I'd prefer to check things prior to destruction myself.