Weekend Freedom Machines banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Finally got my '67 110 running, I bought it this last winter DEAD. I took the sump off to replace the leaking oil gasket, and after I cleaned it out I found a little piece of metal laying in the sump. I think its a piece from the governor? The tractor starts up just fine, idles fine, but when I go to move the throttle cable, I mean just 2 mm...it takes off like its going to explode! I can drive the tractor around the yard just fine, until it is under load and the governor doesn't regulate, it boggs down like its going to die unless I give it a little throttle, but even then.....off to the races like a raped ape. The carb was professionally rebuilt by a friend of mine that collects these 110s, he said its properly adjusted? should I even bother trying to adjust the governor, or can somebody tell if the engine has to be torn down by looking at this piece? I tried posting this question a few weeks ago in the round fender forum, didn't get much insight.

thanks,

Dow

IMG_0512.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
551 Posts
Looks like the governor cross shaft tab. Without that tab there's nothing pushing against the governor weights to keep the RPMs regulated.

Pull off the governor arm and unscrew the brass bushing and you will be able to pull out cross shaft that tab is supposed to be attached to.

I haven't tried replacing a shaft without tearing the engine apart but I think other people have done it by just removing the engine and oil pan then slipping a new shaft in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
John has it right. Piece belongs to the governor. Can be done the way he describes. It is a little tight but I've done one that way.
Good luck

Dom
 
  • Like
Reactions: texican65

·
Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys! Would anybody by chance have a set of notes or instructions for doing this the "shade-tree" method without ripping the engine apart, or some sort of tutorial? Thanks again. Dow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
Dow,
I do not know if it can be done. I went in thru the bottom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well, I found a new/used cross shaft with tab...waiting for its arrival. Will a JD RF 110 service/shop manual reference replacing the governor cross shaft...or do I need a Kohler manual? Or can one of you throw a little wisdom my direction by chance...
Thanks,
Dow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
Dow,
Pull the motor and the pan. (drain oil first) Take off the linkage at the governor near the carb. You should be able to slide the shaft out since the tab it broke.. If you tip the engine a bit you'll be able to reach in and remove the shaft and put in the new one. Some say you can get the tab and shaft thru the hole on the block with some wiggling but I have never tried it. You'll need to push the shaft thru the block then back into the hole. With the tab pointing toward the head. I used a long needle nose instead of fingers to reach thru the block and grab the shaft. Hope at least some of this made sense.

Good luck

Dom
 
  • Like
Reactions: texican65

·
Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE! Well, I pulled the engine for the 2nd time now...:lol: and removed the old governor cross shaft, sure enough, the tab was broken off and was what I found laying in the sump. I had bought another used k181 cross shaft with tab several weeks ago and welded the tab to the shaft, for extra support. I tried your idea of just going up through the bottom Dom, and I feel like it should have worked, I almost had the sucker in there, but it just kept binding up. So after several hours fiddling with it, I took a break and examined both shafts side by side. And whaddaya know....they are different sizes. The original (broken) shaft measurements are: 3 13/16" L, the new shaft is 4" L, both the same width. The original (broken) tab is 1 1/8" L x just over a 1/4" W, the new tab is 1 3/8" L x 3/8" W. so the new one I bought is slightly bigger and I think thats why i can't get it to go in.
Any idea why the shafts are different sizes, both from a K181, mine is a '74-'75 K181, not sure the year of the other? Should I just weld the old tab back on the shaft and call it good, or try to find another?

Thanks guys.

dow

IMG_0902.jpg IMG_0903.jpg IMG_0905.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
I think that if you weld it back on it should be fine to use the old one. When I have done this in the past I wired the governor shaft in place so that the governor gear did not slide off the pin and drop into the block. Didn't do it the first time and I had to put it in three different times. Seemed like every time I moved the block it came loose. Put a carb bolt in and wrap the wire around that.

Dom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Anything else I ought to check or do while the engine is pulled and the sump removed? And how does this governor work? I see another metal gear cog with little metal arms on it that move. How does the shaft and tab interact with the cog?

Dow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Dom, I got the shaft in, up through the bottom, you were right brother! Thanks for your wisdom, i probably would have sent this old hunk of junk into a repair shop to have it done if you hadn't of saved me. Man I owe ya.

Dow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
All you need to be with these old girls is brave enough to ask them to dance. they will lead.

Glad to see you got her buttoned up.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top