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Discussion Starter #1
I can’t seem to shake the images of that articulating round fender and I’ve decided I need one. So I’ve been racking my brain and researching as much as I can to figure out how I want to build one. One thing I’ve come to realize is this will not be a cheap endeavor. It seems that hydraulic drive will be the easiest way to achieve this. However I’m a gear drive guy, and I want to keep this true to a round fender, so I need to figure out a way to design this as simply and as strong as possible. I want to use this to pull a plow (2 or 3 bottom), double disc, and cultivator. I’d like to do as much of this as possible with only the rear lift being hydraulic (and preferably a RF hydraulic lift setup). From what I’ve seen steering could be done mechanically as I’ve seen some articulating tractors used a cable type steering mechanism. But the mechanical drive system is currently eluding me. It would probably be simplest to just have shifters on each transaxle, but I want it to be done with just one shifter. I know of some FWD cars using a cable system for shifting...might have to look into that for design possibilities. And I’ve seen some tractors using a dummy stick that controls a shifter but that is a solid bar that doesn’t have to bend with the turning end of the tractor.

This is relatively the end result, and hopefully not an idea that will never come to light.
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How would you get power to the second rear end? What are you thinking about doing for the articulating joint?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If I go with gear drive axles, I’ll use a belt to driveshaft to belt design or a belt to belt design with a jack shaft in the center. I’m not sure on the center pivot yet. I’ve seen some with a large u-joint type pivot, and I’ve seen others that were more like a hinge. The hinge doesn’t allow flex for uneven terrain, so if I go that route I’ll either mount one of the axles (probably the front) that it can pivot like a regular front axle. Or have a pivot of some sort after the hinge like the pictured tractor uses.

I really just need to figure out a way to actuate the shifter for the rear axle or I’ll have to scrap the gear drive idea. Best case idea would figure out a shifter to actuate both shifters and design a way to still involve the Variator. I really want to keep this true to the 110/112 design. Plus I feel it will be the cheapest way to build this.

The current idea for manual steering is similar to the manual snow blower chute control. A drum mounted at the end of the steering column with a cable that runs to the rear half to turn the tractor. Sizing would give leverage. Although I don’t want this thing to steer like an old dump truck with 12 turns lock to lock :lol:
 

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Could you let the rear axle free spool for transportation, and when your pulling or working it, shift it into say 3rd gear, then use the variator as needed? Then you could use a push/pull type cable that would just shift in and out of one gear?? :unkown:


I would figure out a steering box that would allow you to run steering similar to this. A cable and drum just sound pretty rudimentary...

HOLDER-A12-6 (2).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had thought about having the rear axle as an assist axle as well. It just seemed lazy. Lol, it might end up like that.
That sort of steering would be great! Apparently bolens has an articulating lawn tractor that uses the cable type steering. I wonder if a Vega steering box would be small enough?
 

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I have a vega box in my Model A.. They're small but not garden tractor small.. Could a drag link be used with the 110 steering gear?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had originally thought about the factory steering box, but am unsure of the strength, however I don’t think it should take much to turn the frame.
 

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That would all depend on your tire size and what the articulated joint is made out of. The rf steering box would hold up to a loader and whatever weight was in the bucket... Just a quick search and it would appear that the old Volkswagen Beetle has a fairly small steering box...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My planned tire size is Deestone 26x12 which are actually 24.5x10.50. But it will probably get 23x12.50s. I might try the factory steering with everything mocked up to see if it would work. The more “correct” parts, the better it will fit with looking like it was actually produced.

Im thinking more about the push pull cable. Thinking if I gear down the belts I can setup the cable to stroke between 3-N-4. If I can’t get it to work all gears, that would be the plan!
 

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How about a old school twin setup like the farmers use to build before the factory style articulated tractors came out? You might be able to scale down the controls they used to operate basically two tractors at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Jake, something like this?
5A9A55D7-38E8-4A46-934B-B9E14EC17E10.jpg

That would be harder, and quite possibly more expensive. Plus the fun of keeping both engines/drive lines at the same speed would be a chore. It’s also a lot bigger (storage would then be an issue).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I spent some time looking at my tractors tonight, and I’m just not sure if it would be feasible to set up this tractor with geared transaxles. I haven’t given up on the idea yet, but it seems as though it would be much simpler although more expensive to run hydrostatic or hydraulic rears. I’d need a stroke of genius moment to run gear driven.
 

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Its been a loooooooooooooooong time since I've worked on or looked at a 110 rear end.. Would it be possible to modify the brake shaft to accept a 90 degree gearbox and then run a drive shaft back to another gear box off the second rear ends brake shaft? You could modify the brake to be a drive shaft brake like some cars used to have, that way you would still have braking ability on the front axle.
 

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Its been a loooooooooooooooong time since I've worked on or looked at a 110 rear end.. Would it be possible to modify the brake shaft to accept a 90 degree gearbox and then run a drive shaft back to another gear box off the second rear ends brake shaft? You could modify the brake to be a drive shaft brake like some cars used to have, that way you would still have braking ability on the front axle.
Or turn the whole transmission 90 degrees, run a driveshaft to the input shaft, then run two driveshafts from the axles to differentials front and rear. Personally, I think hydro would probably be the easiest. Ever think about making a tracked version? Like a mini 1010 crawler?
 

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Or turn the whole transmission 90 degrees, run a driveshaft to the input shaft, then run two driveshafts from the axles to differentials front and rear. Personally, I think hydro would probably be the easiest. Ever think about making a tracked version? Like a mini 1010 crawler?
How do you sync both hydro rear ends together so one isn't pushing or pulling the other along? I would think any variation in speed between the two rear ends would be harmful??
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The tractor isn’t long enough to turn the transmission lengthwise. And then I’d need to find shaft driven single speed axles.

There is the concern of functioning at the same speed with hydrostatic rears, however with hydraulic rears like the tractor pictured, there isn’t a concern. You plumb them in series and they’ll run at the same speed.
 

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The tractor isn’t long enough to turn the transmission lengthwise. And then I’d need to find shaft driven single speed axles.

There is the concern of functioning at the same speed with hydrostatic rears, however with hydraulic rears like the tractor pictured, there isn’t a concern. You plumb them in series and they’ll run at the same speed.

What are the details on the machine in the first post? I've seen pictures of it, but never saw any specs on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I haven’t found any specs on it either. But by looking at the pictures, it uses case hydraulic axles. It looks like the hydraulic is operated with the Variator handle (notches are removed).
 

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Nate,

Msg Glenn Peterson he's made 3 or 4 articulating machines. He will be able to give you some pointers.

Here's some videos of his first one.





 
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