I have a 1984 jd 318 and have a couple questions. I use the tractor to mow and pull an aerator. Do I need to add the additional set up on the rear end of the drive shaft and what is the official view on the transmission cross member bolts? Thanks, so much, Jerry
Axle add-on for jd 318 and transmission bolts
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only one bolt needed on cross member, not sure which one but there must be a post on it somewhere
what do you mean additional setup?
I converted my drop spreader to a 2 in hitch to tow it with the tow plate under the tranny
what do you mean additional setup?
I converted my drop spreader to a 2 in hitch to tow it with the tow plate under the tranny
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Knotty-
I believe Jerry is talking about converting the rear of his drive shaft from the standard slip fit yoke to the heavy duty bolt down yoke.
Jerry-
Unless you are really looking for something to do, I wouldn't worry about changing the end of your drive shaft to the HD version. I have the standard end on mine and use it to till a lot in the spring. With your uses, I wouldn't worry about it. I have never heard of anyone working one hard enough to lose the drive shaft. I would think you would have to either twist something terribly or tear something free to get the driveshaft to come off on its own.
I believe Jerry is talking about converting the rear of his drive shaft from the standard slip fit yoke to the heavy duty bolt down yoke.
Jerry-
Unless you are really looking for something to do, I wouldn't worry about changing the end of your drive shaft to the HD version. I have the standard end on mine and use it to till a lot in the spring. With your uses, I wouldn't worry about it. I have never heard of anyone working one hard enough to lose the drive shaft. I would think you would have to either twist something terribly or tear something free to get the driveshaft to come off on its own.
Here is a link that shows the cross member update and the HD drive shaft yoke.
Bob P
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/141970.html
Bob P
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/141970.html
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nice link bob, I could remember the cross member issue but now the HD yoke is coming back to me
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Hello Jerry
I have a 1983 John Deere 318 that I did a Total restoration on late last fall. I Placed a New Built Onan P-218 in it and when I looked at the drive shaft I discovered that it had some slop to it as it would wiggle up and down some. I ordered the new Improved heavy duty style drive shaft yoke that has the Two Bolt's through it. I had to Take off one of the Hydro Pump Line's off of the Hydro Pump to gain enough clearance to remove the drive shaft, so that the front Yoke cleared the area up front where it is a Tight fit close to the lower dash sheet metal when taking it out from the top I then was able to remove the drive shaft to Place the new rear Yoke to it. Once the drive shaft is out, I checked both Universal Joint's and they were tight and good with No Noticeable catch's to them they rotated smoothly so I decided to leave them in place, Rather than put new U-joint's on the drive shaft assembly. I Placed the drive shaft in my Bench vice to remove the Two half Moon clip's that hold the Rear Yoke in place, then used a shallow socket to Push the U-joint far enough out of the Yoke to remove the U-Joint needle bearing cap's, but be cautious to Not drop the Universal joint cap's out onto the bench when Pressing them out of the drive shaft as it may disturb the Needle bearing's inside the U-Joint cap's, or worse yet drop some of the small needle bearing's out of the retainer Cap Portion of the U-Joint.
I Used a dab of Lucas brand Heavy duty Synthetic Grease inside both Universal joint cap's while they were off the Universal joint to keep the needle bearing's all in place before Placing them back onto the Universal Joint. Once I had the Two Half Moon clip's back in Place I greased the front and rear U-joint's then removed the drive shaft from my bench vice. I Put the drive shaft back in my Tractor and took down the fly wheel bolt's to their specified torque & cranked the engine up. I noticed a weird slight vibration that was not there prior to switching the drive shaft yoke's. I consoled with Forum member Bob P. and he was the one that told me that I should have Marked my fly wheel bolt and Yoke location before I Pulled my drive shaft, so I had to rotate the front of the drive shaft Three time's in different bolt up Position's on the engine's fly wheel bolt Pattern before the vibration disappeared. When I removed my drive shaft I was Not aware that the the Position of the drive shaft would make any difference but it did in my case so I would suggest before you Pull your drive shaft that You Take a minute and mark it's current location on the fly wheel. Once I found the right spot for the drive shaft to be my vibration went away and all is good, but it can be Frustrating placing and Moving the drive shaft to different Bolt up location's on the fly wheel due to there Not being much room in there to swing a wrench when Tightening the front drive shaft bolt's. I hope this helps and saves you some Frustration when switching your Rear drive shaft Yoke, Kurt
I have a 1983 John Deere 318 that I did a Total restoration on late last fall. I Placed a New Built Onan P-218 in it and when I looked at the drive shaft I discovered that it had some slop to it as it would wiggle up and down some. I ordered the new Improved heavy duty style drive shaft yoke that has the Two Bolt's through it. I had to Take off one of the Hydro Pump Line's off of the Hydro Pump to gain enough clearance to remove the drive shaft, so that the front Yoke cleared the area up front where it is a Tight fit close to the lower dash sheet metal when taking it out from the top I then was able to remove the drive shaft to Place the new rear Yoke to it. Once the drive shaft is out, I checked both Universal Joint's and they were tight and good with No Noticeable catch's to them they rotated smoothly so I decided to leave them in place, Rather than put new U-joint's on the drive shaft assembly. I Placed the drive shaft in my Bench vice to remove the Two half Moon clip's that hold the Rear Yoke in place, then used a shallow socket to Push the U-joint far enough out of the Yoke to remove the U-Joint needle bearing cap's, but be cautious to Not drop the Universal joint cap's out onto the bench when Pressing them out of the drive shaft as it may disturb the Needle bearing's inside the U-Joint cap's, or worse yet drop some of the small needle bearing's out of the retainer Cap Portion of the U-Joint.
I Used a dab of Lucas brand Heavy duty Synthetic Grease inside both Universal joint cap's while they were off the Universal joint to keep the needle bearing's all in place before Placing them back onto the Universal Joint. Once I had the Two Half Moon clip's back in Place I greased the front and rear U-joint's then removed the drive shaft from my bench vice. I Put the drive shaft back in my Tractor and took down the fly wheel bolt's to their specified torque & cranked the engine up. I noticed a weird slight vibration that was not there prior to switching the drive shaft yoke's. I consoled with Forum member Bob P. and he was the one that told me that I should have Marked my fly wheel bolt and Yoke location before I Pulled my drive shaft, so I had to rotate the front of the drive shaft Three time's in different bolt up Position's on the engine's fly wheel bolt Pattern before the vibration disappeared. When I removed my drive shaft I was Not aware that the the Position of the drive shaft would make any difference but it did in my case so I would suggest before you Pull your drive shaft that You Take a minute and mark it's current location on the fly wheel. Once I found the right spot for the drive shaft to be my vibration went away and all is good, but it can be Frustrating placing and Moving the drive shaft to different Bolt up location's on the fly wheel due to there Not being much room in there to swing a wrench when Tightening the front drive shaft bolt's. I hope this helps and saves you some Frustration when switching your Rear drive shaft Yoke, Kurt
Have had a jd 318 for year and a half now and getting ready to work on intake leak, but stumbled across the need for filter in breather hose. Mine didn't have one. Where do I get one and if you know part number, that would help! It has b43g engine-1984 model.
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Hello Jerry
I am Not certain what you mean by filer in breather hose here are you making Reference to the Crank case breather hose ? that has media in it and If so here is the guy to contact his name is Robert Kummer he goes by Boomer. He will have what you need or steer you right here. I hope this helps, Kurt
http://boomersonanparts.com/
I am Not certain what you mean by filer in breather hose here are you making Reference to the Crank case breather hose ? that has media in it and If so here is the guy to contact his name is Robert Kummer he goes by Boomer. He will have what you need or steer you right here. I hope this helps, Kurt
http://boomersonanparts.com/
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move the drive shaft 90 from the engine until you find the least vibration
also make sure your yolks are aligned
http://jniolon.clubfte.com/drivelinephasing/drivelinephasing.html
also make sure your yolks are aligned
http://jniolon.clubfte.com/drivelinephasing/drivelinephasing.html
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take the part that mounts to the engine and remove it and put it back on 90 CW from which it was and run the engine to see if vibration is gone.
repeat until you find the least vibration
repeat until you find the least vibration
Ok, got it, just a quarter turn at a time, than try it. Wonder if I just go to the last quarter first, it might be the quarter I'm looking for. Isn't that the way it usually works? Wish it was a little easier to get to those bolts, like somebody said before, they built the tractor around the drive shaft.
Just read about aligning the yolks, don't know how that could be a problem for me since I used my same original oil pan and bolts to mount the engine in the original mounting holes. But I do now understand what you were trying to tell me. Thanks KnottyRope
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you should also check your axle to frame mounting bolts. sometimes they get loose and even egg shaped which can cause vibration too. hopefully your engine was put in to its not angled
Today, I am going to first rotate the drive shaft to locate its best 90* location, and than I will loosen the engine mounting bolts and rotate the engine, if possible, to see if that might help. There was a little rotation movement but not much. The vibration wasn't there until I changed the engine so I doubt the axle to frame mount would have changed. Thanks KnottyRope
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