[threeeighteen]

I see alot of guys are missing their belly screens.
If they are as important as some say they are, I wonder why someone doesn't make a pattern and make them to sell. Maybe I should. A local fab shop sells all kinds of steel and I have seen several styles and thicknesses of screening by the sheet there. It is cashy, but so are good used JD screens.

I have wondered if installing a solid sheet metal cover would be even better than a screen. It seems to me that the engine fan could draw air in from the back of the tractor and past the Transmission which would also aid in cooling the trans. Anybody think that the air drawn through this way might be a bit cleaner, and would there be an advantage to the trans this way???

 

[coalminer16]

The 332/330/322 has baffles that doesn't allow the air to come in from the rear. Only through the top through the coarse foam or the bottom screen. I think someone had said once the screens were removed with JD saying to do so from fires happening with the oil/etc that was in there building up.

A nice stainless steel one would be nice. If anyone can answer the question on if the screw hole pattern is the same for the 318/316 vs the 322/330/332 then I could look at getting that done. I know the holes are bigger on the air cooled vs liquid cooled but is that it?

 

[ebauman]

as far as the belly screen goes, I have been running without one for about 10 years. I always found a huge build-up of junk every year I serviced the 322. I find the screen keeps some dirt out "but"it also traps a lot of dirt around the transmission and hydraulics. What I do is use compressed air to blow dirt out usually after every use. I know this is not for everyone but it works for me.I have a 89 model 322 with over 2200hrs on it and still is running strong. All this to say " in my opinion the belly screen is not needed". Also what Travis said, there are baffles around the drive line so air would not flow.

 

[gerry]

I recently removed the screen on my 318 to grease the u-joints and install my snow blade. I than had to pick up leaves after a high wind came thru. I never gave re-installing the screen a thought. When I finished I discovered I had filled up the engine space between the shroud and head fins with leaves. I could not blow them out with compressed air @ 120 lbs and finally removed the engine shrouds to remove the leaves. I think I will always make sure my screen is on.

 

[bo2009]

Steven,
Different underbody and/or rear shields\screens per model. One example that may be close to what I think you are referring to is an original mid-mount underbody shield for the 420. Not a belly "screen" per se. No perforation. It's ..... a shield. 318s had the "screen". 420s didn't. I don't know why. Same type air-cooled engine so it must be OK to operate them without a "screen" underneath (as long as things are kept relatively clean). Bobo

 

[Highwayman1]

I've seen 420's with an original underbelly screen similar to the one on a 430. Its big plastic and fits up into the underside of the machine.
Michael

 

[Hammerdown-7]

Hell Steven
The belly screen is very crucial to the Life span of your Onan. That said I got my 1983 John Deere 318 without one in Place so I bought one for it. I also had to place one on my son in law's 1991 John Deere 316 when I built it for him. With the belly screen in Place it keep's dirt and Trash from entering your engine's fly wheel fin's and the Blower assembly area on your Onan, keeping it from sending dirt and debris up to the air filter assembly as well. The Three Most Important item's to run on your John Deere 316 or 318 is the Belly screen, Oil filter rubber surround Grommet, and fire wall Insulation package. With all there of these item's in Place it will keep your Onan cool and extend the Life span of it. I Hope this help's, Kurt}

 

[dunoon]

I'm fixing my 430 to use as mainly a loader tractor. I was wondering if my plastic belly pan is really necessary. Any thoughts?

 

[rustyknuckles]

My 318 just runs a snowthrower, so I have left my screen off.

 

[Hammerdown-7]

Hello Steven
Back when I got my John Deere 318 it was missing it's Belly screen. I thought like some other's that I did not need it. When I restored it I was amazed at just How much dirt and Trash had accumulated behind the engine fly wheel area it was Packed full and I was surprised that it even charged the battery any more as the stator was stuffed full of dirt as well. The fact of the matter is, if John Deere did not feel that the belly screens were needed they would Not have Placed them to begin with. Just my 2 Cent's on this subject I will Not run mine without one again. Regards, Kurt

 

[whstubb]

I also was missing the belly screen on one of my 318's, until I was able to acquire a factory screen. I improvised one made out of 3/16" rolled galvanized screen material. Actually it worked real well for the entire mowing season until, I found a factory screen.

 

[army]

None of my 400's had belly screens when I bought them. I've put over 700 hours on one of them mowing grass since 2006 and I've never had much of a debris build up under there at all. In fact I was actually under the mower tractor last week changing some hydraulic hoses. There were a few small tufts of grass caught here and there on the frame but the oil cooler was very clean and there wasn't much of a crud buildup anywhere else that I could see. I wouldn't mind putting a non-perforated belly screen on the 400 that has a cab on it, just to see if it increases warm air flow into the cab through the vents on the sides of the dash pedestal. Other than that I see no need for the screens at all, but I'm just describing my own experience. Your results may vary.


Army

 

[tfgaasch]

Army.
Just a thought, but doesn't the Kohler draw air in from the back and blow out the front of the tractor. I would think you would get more cold air drawn into the cab.
I also don't have a screen on my 400. I did notice a ton of curd built up around the stator when I had the engine tore down last year, but not much on cooler or other places. Mine is only winter duty now, aquired a cab and upgraded to a 47 blower this year so I'm waiting to play in some snow. Next thing I am looking for is a box blade.

Just some thoughts

Tim

 

[army]

Tim.. but somehow I still get heat coming through the side vents. Once the tractor is up to temp I can stick my hand down beside the vent and feel it coming in. Definitely not enough to start my socks on fire but not cold air either. If the outdoor temp is just below the freezing point it actually gets sweaty in the cab unless I pull my coat off. Possibly some warmth is being pulled forward and getting into the cab from the hydro pump/tranny. Doesn't seem there would be much though. Another factor may be that the 532 Kohler in that particular 400 is out of a Bolens and doesn't have heat ducting panels up front like a JD 400 should. I have to run with the side covers off in the summer because so much heat builds up around the front of the engine. I always put the covers back on in the fall. Maybe some of that heat is getting back to the cab between the side covers and the engine tin.


Army

 

[army]

Btw, I have to tear down that 400 to do some repairs. While I'm at it I'm going to fix everything that needs it, like a complete steering system rebuild. I hope to get at it later this week. I'm going to put the cab and blower on another 400 with the correct 532 in it. Will be a good opportunity to see if I get the same heat flow or not.


Army

 

[KB]

Richard, air blows the opposite direction on a 430 vs an air cooled motor. On the 430 air comes in the front grill and out by the rear end. As for advice about using it, what do you lose by installing it, except 5 minutes? It might be helping keep the hydro clean, and cool?

Kb

 

[tfgaasch]

Army. Thanks for the reply. I have not been able to play with mine with the cab and snow yet so I am very curious. It also isn't at home right now, it is getting some covers made for the cab down by the foot well (they were missing when I got it). It will be interesting to hear how the steering repairs go. I need to tear into that next year when I do some paint on the tins. Kill 2 or more things at once.

Glad your still at it.

Tim

 

[army]

The steering rebuild is actually pretty easy Tim. Most of the work is in tearing the tractor down. Well worth the effort though. Sure makes a difference in how easy and tight they steer. I'm gonna do the hydro control linkage too.

First thing will be transferring the cab to the other 400. I came up with a simple one-man way of doing it. I park my little `93 stepside Ranger up tight behind the tractor, take the doors and front window off the cab, disconnect the front mounts, loosen the rear mounts a bit and flip the cab over backwards into the truck bed. Its just the right height. When I'm flipping it over I have to tug the cab sideways a bit to get past the brake pedals but it's not a big deal. Then I just take the rear mounts off and drive the truck away. Installing it is the reverse of taking it off and it's just as easy. The first time I installed my cab I used my 3 ton cherry picker and slung it into place. It worked ok but wasn't nearly as practical.


Army

 

[wyogreen]

Army, I've always figured if I ever get around to building a cab for my 140 that I'd make the rear mounts hinged, so you could just flip it over backwards to remove it.

Steve

 

[tfgaasch]

Army. I do like your method of removing the cab. Mine is a bit different. I already have a hoist set up in my storage building for removing and storing hard top for my jeep up high. The top is large and bulky being the 2006 LJ. Good for storing top, and leaves room on ground for other things.

Tim