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Hmm, I wonder if Bill has any pics of it in his gallery. I always thought I would build one like that w/ maybe an 8000watt gen. from Northern. Seemed like a great application for a 332. Bill sent me pics of it a few yrs ago, but I don't know where they might be.
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jon,

I had saved four pictures from Bill for future reference. I now have use for them and wanted Bill to confirm what diameter pulley he used on the generator head. Looks smaller, probably a 5.75" as the PTO pulley is 6.5" (at least on my 318).

I've put my hand on a warehouse damaged Chicago Electric 10KW peak (7.2KW cont.) generator head on eBay for 62$! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7558009187

I haven't posted in a while as I have been busy on my John Deere carrier; an little old pickup truck.

If you want to see my toys and construction of my workshop, please visit my site at www.imageevent.com/clavette

Regards,

Mike
 

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Michel, I will need to check on the pulley diameter, but I think it is 5.5". Both the big one-lung kohler on the 314 and the diesel on my 332 are not happy operating at 3600rpm, so I needed to overdrive the generator a bit. I didn't want to overdrive it too much as I thought a closer to 1:1 ratio will provide better voltage & frequency control. I'll check for more pictures.

Bill
 

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Mike,
Hmm, didn't think of looking on the 'bay for a genset head. Looks like a heck of a deal for $140.
I'm looking at the workshop-need to make my own plans for one.

I think from what I remember from Bill is he undersized the gen pulley so that he had a little room to work on the top rpm range i.e. he didn't have to run the tractor 'flat out' or WOT.
Looks like you got a good deal:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45416

Jon
P.S. Nice barn and great pics of the build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jon,

What do you mean by barn? My girlfriend complained that it's better insulated and has better windows than the house. She just about lost it when I was pondering about putting a washroom in it!

Just too bad I don't have a round fender 110 to go with my 1957 Power Wagon!

Bill, thanks for the reply.

Let's continue in the thread on PTO driven generators in the Corner Store.

Mike
 

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Michel,
You mean you ran water and didn't figure on having to live back there??
Oh that's right, you keep referring to the significant other as 'girlfriend' and not as 'wife'. Us guys w/ wives figure the outbuilding better have heat, AC, telephone, cable, water, AND a bathroom 'cause sooner or later we're gonna hear something like: 'You and those tractors, you spend more time w/ them then me-why don't you just go LIVE W/ THEM'.

And that way, we'll be comfortable when that day comes.
Jon
 

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I have a 455 with a 40 loader and the special forward drive relief valve. I think it is relieving too quickly. With a small blade on the back, the tractor will stop moving before spinning the wheels and/or bogging the engine at all. Also, I have some really steep places on my property that will cause the tractor to stop when climbing. again, with no wheel spin or engine slow down.

In reverse when backdragging with the loader it has much more pulling power.

My manual is packed away at the moment. so, my question is this: (finally!)
Where does one tap into the hydro to measure the forward drive pressure?

It looks like the optional loader valve can be adjusted with shims, like the charge pump relief. but, I'd really like not to do that without being able to see what I've done!
 

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Well, I found the specs from Tuff Torq. over 4500psi!!! But, no ports are provided to test the actual pressure. Just as well, as I don't trust my test gauge and hose at that pressure.

Anyone ever encounter this issue??
 

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Ken, I have no issues with mine, but I think you have correctly diagnosed your valve as opening too early. I wonder if a good hydraulic shop could test it for you? I'd imagine it's pretty expensive to replace on a trial basis.

Tim
 

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Ken,

The AM121248 pressure relief valve is set by JD to 3,199 PSI. The relief valve pressure can be adjusted by adding shims like the implement relief valve. The problem there is no information shown for the shims. I would guess that shims for the implement relief valve might work. SInce there is no test port, you would be just guessing what the resulting pressure would be.

George of Buford
 

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Thanks for the info. I think I'll contact a dealer shop on Monday and see if they have a setup to shim and test. I would remove the valve and take it in for the work. There doesn't appear to be any access to test the pressure on the tractor.
 

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Ken,

I am repairing a 455 hydro and spent a lot of time attempting to find a way to test the hydro pump pressure. First, the hydraulic pump to the hydraulic motor is a closed loop system. Second, if you COULD test the pressure, you would have to stop the hydraulic motor from turning and then have the engine WOT and press the forward pedal. Just locking the parking brake could damage the brake or the internal components of the hydro.

I believe the internal pressure of the closed loop hydro system is 1550 PSI so the factory setting of 3200 PSI sounds about right. Since the valve seems to be working at a much lower pressure, leads me to believe the relief valve was never set by the factory. I would disassemble the valve and see what shims are present. Adding a shim would be simple and then you would just have to try the tractor to see if it fixed the problem.

George of Buford
 

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No, I just haven't had time to play with it. The dealer did not have a way to test it off the tractor and doing it by trial and error will take more time than I've had available 'cause I would have to pull the fender deck, try a small shim, reinstall the fender deck, try it out. and repeat. Then I still couldn't tell if it was OK or over pressure! Maybe later in the spring.
 
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