A small in line moisture trap attached to the bottom of the gun is all I've ever used. Never had a problem, even on the hottest summer days. Only costs a couple of bucks, and is disposable when the job is done.
I have seen rattle can jobs that were wet sanded between coats and dozens of coats applied. Then a dozen clear coats on top of those. They looked like professional paint jobs. Deep vivid colors. I can't attest to the longevity of such a paint job though. These jobs were witnessed decades ago when they put 0.05oz of pigment in a 16oz can of paint. I believe that percentage has gone way up as can nozzle technology has improved.I agree that the spray cans have come a long way. some are much better than others. And if you stick to the same lot numbers your likely to get a good match between cans. The problem I have with doing larger jobs my finger gets tired! And as in all paint work dry edges are a no no. Once you start you need to keep going. And, I seem to have a habit of placing my finger to far forward and after a few minutes of spraying paint collects at the end eventually dropping off and onto the work. Happens every time! Especially with gloves on. Seem I'll never learn!
As for paint that has primer included? No such thing. Primer function is totally different than paint. So called self primers work on rough surfaces like hot rolled steel or cast metals. But with them little prep is ever required or even possible. Your not likely to buff and polish rough metal. But when you want that perfect paint job like what came on your new Ford pickup, there are few shortcuts. Your rattle can job may look good now but a year or two and a few washings later, well? Enjoy it while its there!
I repainted (with both "rattle can" and brush) a 1988 322 with the official JD green paint. Considering how difficult it is for my 6'-3" body and size 15 boots to mount and dismount the tractor, it's a wonder that there's still paint on the rear deck. Of course one can't hover and then drop into the seat, so expect eventual scratches. You could change into bunny rabbit slippers. Hmm?Been a great thread, learned alot thanks.
I mow in flip-flops. I do everything in shorts and flip-flops during the summer and late into the fall. Many things that folks would likely cringe if they saw me doing them. Like welding and using a chainsaw. It's hard to coax me into wearing real shoes when it's hot out. I only wear shoes when I go to work and only because fully closed shoes are required to drive for the company. Otherwise I'd wear the bare minimum there too.I repainted (with both "rattle can" and brush) a 1988 322 with the official JD green paint. Considering how difficult it is for my 6'-3" body and size 15 boots to mount and dismount the tractor, it's a wonder that there's still paint on the rear deck. Of course one can't hover and then drop into the seat, so expect eventual scratches. You could change into bunny rabbit slippers. Hmm?
We sprayed our JD 332 we used all John Deere recommended paint & paint thinner. 1 quart goes a long ways cheap compared to spray cans. We put like 4 thin coats and sand in between coats with 1000 grit. We use some 600, 800 &1000 sand paper wet. My brother-in-law has experience with the paint gun he was teaching me for the first time how to set up the gun spraying into cardboard box to get a fine mist not too heavy.So the side panels came out decent but the Fender Pan came out blotchy paint gun issues and experience and I don't know what else but my question is I used rest oleum enamel John Deere green if I paint it again in a couple days do I sand it 1st and rough it up with like 1500 or 2000 grit and then put another coat on?