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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been in the market for some sort of pull behind chopper or mower for the b to knock down my sunflowers and corn stalks each season. I haven't had much luck but on my hunt I found a 2 bottom plow. I figured I can use that to just burry the stalks. There's some guys in my area who still moldboard plow and soil tests and yields show that the completely turned soil and garbage burried and breaking down really puts nutrients back in the soil.

The seller says it works. I figured for 100.00 it's worth a gamble. It could be yard art if it doesn't work out.

You can band me on here but to me it looks like a little genius #8 ih plow. I think there's a rule that the plow needs to match the tractor but oh well. I have an ih planter.

Monday I'm supposed to pick it up.

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I used one very similar during my high school years. No moss on it caused it sit in a shed all its life.
 
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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I used one very similar during my high school years. No moss on it caused it sit in a shed all its life.
I'm hoping to fix the moss. I like the old look and will make sure it functions before anything but figured I better paint it up to make it fit in with everything else I have.
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I picked up the plow this morning. Got it off the trailer, oiled and greased took it out in the garden and worked really good. It puts my atv disc to shame. I need to do some adjustments but it does the job for a 100.00 plow. Some pieces are really rusted together. Looking it over, and paint will be postponed until winter time. I'll need to watch some YouTube videos on plowing and do some research to see what it is. I'm guessing it's a little genius.

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The simplest thing that most people (usually knuckleheads posting their plowing online) get wrong is not having the bottoms running level front to back or side to side or having it cut to deep or shallow. Should be cutting half of the bottom width (how wide the bottom will cut in the ground, should be able to measure the distance between low beams) +/- 1” going off of memory.

I forget coulter placement off the top of my head but it’s also important to get right. Otherwise a lot of it is just operator preference/style for running it with some adjustments based on soil.
 
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@Fox Run Farms
Saw you liked my post while I was editing, added some stuff in case you missed it.
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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689 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Once you get it lumbered up and adjusted correctly, you'll love that plow. I've seen some pretty amazing looking furrows from those.
I'm looking forward to using it more and seeing how well stuff yields in the new soil . I used a tiller the 1st year, a spring tooth drag the next, then my disc the last 2. I couldn't believe how packed down the soil was until I put the plow in.
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The simplest thing that most people (usually knuckleheads posting their plowing online) get wrong is not having the bottoms running level front to back or side to side or having it cut to deep or shallow. Should be cutting half of the bottom width (how wide the bottom will cut in the ground, should be able to measure the distance between low beams) +/- 1” going off of memory.

I forget coulter placement off the top of my head but it’s also important to get right. Otherwise a lot of it is just operator preference/style for running it with some adjustments based on soil.
Thanks for the information. When I 1st dropped it in the ground........not expecting it to drop it just slid across the top. After I adjusted I dropped it and almost stalled the tractor in 2nd. I went about half way and seemed good. 1 culter is seized. Watching or being involved with garaden tractor plow days I remember a guy helping others set up their plows and showing how to set up the culter to be knifing in the sod before turning it. Also the back wheel should follow the furrows. I'm really looking forward to using it.
 

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Try to get it shined up (the bottoms and coulters) as much as possible then apply a coat of plow paint. I get it at John Deere and they call it something else now but any older or knowledgable parts guy will know what you need. To help loosen the rust try hitting it with a wire cup brush on your angle grinder first.

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Try to get it shined up (the bottoms and coulters) as much as possible then apply a coat of plow paint. I get it at John Deere and they call it something else now but any older or knowledgable parts guy will know what you need. To help loosen the rust try hitting it with a wire cup brush on your angle grinder first.

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That's a nice plow. I was a metal finisher for 3 years. I could make metal look like a mirror if it had to be. I was hoping to do the same with those parts. Is it like a graphite paint? Seemed like every other sunmer on the farm I worked on I coated the gravity boxes, grain trucks and fertilizer planter boxes with that stuff.

90% of my projects is wire brushed. So that's a good start to this one.
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I took the wire wheel brush, and my blending wheel to one bottom..........can't see myself in them yet. I got my corn planter openers looking really nice last spring.
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I got one bottom very slick and threw some old auto wax on it........not sure if that'd do anything.
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What was the stuff Chevy Chase put on his sled saucer in Christmas Vacation? That stuff would work good......
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Did some work on the plow at night during the last week. I polished up the mold boards, and was able to free up the coulters. I have a spray bottle of oil and diesel fuel that works wonders( maybe you'll see me shortly on a $19.95 order now commercial)I also made a hook for the trip rope to hang on the seat, so my left hand won't be out in the field if the plow breaks away.

I've been watching a lot of youtube videos on adjusting the plow. From the weeds it seems pretty well set up, but want things loose for when I paint it.

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Trying it out in the field trying to trip it on the go it lowers and goes back up, but stopped it drops and stays down. My corn planter, and digger are both trips and require to hang onto to the rod for a few seconds, so maybe the plow requires a quick fast tug. Or I might need to open up the hub and check the spring in it. Again for 100.00 can't complain.
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I took the b out this morning. It was a little tacky out yet but there's a chance for storms this afternoon and then a polar plunge so figured might as well.
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The B didn't give me any greif this time besides the off reading gauges. I was pulling 6 inches deep in 2nd full throttle. 3rd turned the soil over more but there were spots the b really grunted. This is the 1st time in 3 years this area really got turned over. I usually just scuff it 2 inches with a spring tooth drag or atv disk so it'll be interesting to see how stuff grows next year. The plow needs some adjustments yet and I kept losing a coulter, but for 100.00 cant complain.
 

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It's a two cylinder, she'll grunt as the front end will come off the ground. As long as you have traction, you'll be surprised what that little B will do. Ran a 620 as a kid with a three point mounted 3-14, a plow bottom would hook a section of limestone ledge and I would be looking at the sky. Had to be quick with hand clutch, otherwise I and the tractor would be sitting on the plow. You get that B dialed in and put some weight on her, she'll pull.
 

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1951 JD B, 1967 JD 110-Rf, 1969 JD 110-Sf custom, 1972 JD 110-Sf
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
It's a two cylinder, she'll grunt as the front end will come off the ground. As long as you have traction, you'll be surprised what that little B will do. Ran a 620 as a kid with a three point mounted 3-14, a plow bottom would hook a section of limestone ledge and I would be looking at the sky. Had to be quick with hand clutch, otherwise I and the tractor would be sitting on the plow. You get that B dialed in and put some weight on her, she'll pull.
I've watched videos of guys plowing with 630's/730's and 4020's steering with the brakes. I have 2 100 lbs case weights on a custom bracket for my atv disk to use. I can make a bracket for them to hang off the front. I was also thinking of some sort of push bar or brush gaurd for the front for whenever I get a mower or chopper to knock down my sun flower and corn stalks. 2nd seemed like a comfortable gear. Enough power and traction and I could focus on the furrow and the plow. I don't need to set any land speed records. I'm just use to go 30mph on the atv ripping up ground. It's funny watching newbies on youtube putting in food plots with an h or 8n and using road gear just flying and bouncing across the field.
 
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