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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I broke a head bolt in my 140 ! It's the one beside the exhaust , I tried to drill it out with cobalt bits and managed to break a bit off about quarter of an inch down and can't get it out or drill any further! Why not ! Do I really need that one ?
 

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That is probably the most important head bolt on the engine because it is the place that heats and cools the most. I see lots of head gasket failures in your future if you do not fix it. I have gotten them out the way Steve said. Put a nut over the bolt center on the remains of the stud and wire feed weld the remains to the nut. The heating of the nut in the welding process really helps the bolt come out. If you don't have a bit of the bolt sticking up take it to a machine shop and let them do the removal. Without the stud sticking up you could weld the nut to the block and end up having a ruined block. Roger
 

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I broke a head bolt off in a 12 hp Kohler block. I figured I only had one chance of getting it out. I pulled the engine out, took the pan off, went to the hardware store and bought a real Cobalt bit, not one of the yellow coated ones. I stuck the block in the drill press and it drilled the grade 8 out with ease. I must have backed the tap up at least 10 times, worked out great.
 

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They are one piece, so you can't just change the jug.

If it was me, I would keep drilling out the old stud. Remove it when you get enough of the old material out. Then if you have to, tap it to a 7/16". Or heli-coil it, as long as you're not tractor pulling with it, you should be fine.

As for your second question about the stator. You may. There isn't any reason why you couldn't do just that. The old rectifier should bolt strait up.
 

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Dale,
Use a Dremel tool with a small chain saw sharpening stone(s) to grind out that drill bit. Then go back to using progressively larger drill bits until the threads begin to show.
Harold
 

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Dale,
Just an FYI. I have a k321 in a 140 that has had a heli coil in it for about 2 years now and no issues. Periodically I check the torque on it and it has held up fine. Mine had a broken tap in one of the holes that I was able to shatter with a punch. Good luck
Tom
 

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Another thing to do for the welding trick is tig weld it out. Mig you are feeding wire in the whole time so you have a time limit before you hvae to stop. Tig-you can hold the torch over it and increase/decrease the heat as much/little as you want so the heat is very focused. Then when ready start adding filler rod to get a grab point for a vise-grip. Someone at work broke a bolt off flush in there rear chopper motorcycle wheel. Since tig doesn't throw sparts I did this trick and it works great. Works with anything you can weld to including broken tapes and drill bits. Saw it done with my advise to do so pulling a small tap broken flush in stainless steel.

Not saying everyone has the tig welder-but it might be the easiest/fastest way without possibly ruining things further depending on the case. Might not be enough material for a helicoil. And drilling-if not perfectly centered the first time still makes it REALLY hard I have found to retap.
 

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Mike, You won't believe this, but I have one of those EDM machines. It came from a Dover Air Force surplus auction and its in the back of my shop. I was told it worked and that they upgraded to a newer one. I have never had time to fool with it, but that may change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
We'll guys I managed to drill it out by breaking the drill bit a 16th at a time using a pointed punch then drill down and repeat ! Yahoo !! Now for a helicoil install tomorrow ! Thanks again for all of your help this is such a great site !
 

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Travis, On the same idea. I try to weld a nut onto the broken stud if possible. Then just wrench it out.
 
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