[iruossim]

New project tractor that is...

I've got all the shields and fender pan, missing a few things like bolts. I had to take a spare set of rear tires with me as it didn't come with those either. It's got a 395,xxx serial number, what year would that make it?

Not real sure why it was taken apart to start with, the gent I bought it from got it on trade for some work he did. The Onan is missing the starter, maybe that's the only issue, but I doubt it.

Will a 20 hp Onan out of a 420 fit in a 316?

 

[KB]

It is a project. You'd be surprised how many people take working things apart with the best of intentions, and never go further.

A p220 should fit the same as a p218. I have a 317 p218 starter that's freshly rebuilt if your interested.

I look forward to seeing what happens.

 

[boomers_influence]

kb. and matt
the engine that matt is showing SHOULD be
a B43E, not a P 218. early 420 are B48G,
later are P 220.
the late B 48G starter will not work without
a frame cut. ( it has a solenoid on it )
if he uses a P he will have to cut the frame,
or use the starter that was used on the 317
re power. ( 191-1828 )
thank you. boomer

 

[chuckv]

Matthew,

That serial number is in the 1986 range...and as Boomer noted it would have originally had the B-series Onan engine.

There are lots of threads here on replacing a B-series with the P-series Onan and what needs to be changed (hint -- it is not that difficult and several members here have done it...)

Chuck

 

[iruossim]

Boomer, you're correct. That is a B43E.

I just got it moved into the work bay. I'm thinking my first goal is to figure out the rats nest of wires. Then off to fixing the rusty ares. It got a rattle can paint job at one time because the top layer is mostly pealed off. I had high hopes of just giving it a good buffing before I saw the PO's paint job pealing. I guess I'll start wire brushing it and send it off to the paint man, I'll wait on this idea just to make sure he's got time or not.

Will an 18 or 20hp Kolher Command fit without modification to the frame?

 

[g_haynes]

Matthew,

I just blew that pic up in size and I could be mistaken but it sure looks like to me that it already has the frame clearance hole for a starter with mounted solenoid. Viewed as if you were sitting on the seat it would be a large hole on the engine mounting plate approx 4" x 8" right up alongside the vertical part of the frame in the area the engine mounts in. I'm working on an '86 318 in my barn right now that carries serial number 364185 that has the B43 engine and it has the clearance hole. And if you'll note too '86 is the first year they started welding on the "scab" plate" on the outside of the frame in the area where the axle passes beneath which is just outside the frame where that starter clearance hole is. I think Deere started using frames with the hole in '86. Frames of '84 and '85 of the 316's have neither the clearance hole nor the scab plates welded on. They didn't make 316's in '83 like they did the 318's. The 318 frames have the same features as the 316's in coinciding years. ............Gary

 

[g_haynes]

Matthew,

I also just picked up an '86 316 as a project. If i go down to my barn tomorrow I'll try to look at that frame and see if the clearance hole is in it. It is SN 367926 and has the B43E engine..............Gary

 

[iruossim]

Gary, Pictures as follows...

I was wrong on the serial number. I thought it was a 395,xxx... but now we all know.

When the weather warms up, I think there is a power washer in this 316's future.

 

[g_haynes]

Matthew,

Good, so the clearance hole is there. That should make it easier for you. Look forward to seeing your progress.............Gary

 

[jdalchemist]

Matthew,
The early 1986 318's and 316's used a Bendix starter on the respective B43G or B43E, and did not have the frame cut-out. The other guys have figured out that your 316 is a later 1986 model with the frame cut-out. The serial number breaks for the frame cut out with a solenoid-shift starter are >364,138 for the 318 and >362,984 for the 316.

Finding a starter for your B43E will be a little tricky, as it was originally equipped with an oil sump mounted solenoid-shift starter unique for the 1986 partial model year (Gary, your 316 should have this type). This starter (AM109172) has the solenoid at a right angle to the starter mounts. Starters used on the P-series engines have the solenoid and starter mounts on opposite sides of the starter body. I believe you can use the P-type starter (Boomer please confirm this), although you may have to tap the starter mounts on the bottom of the block if they have not already been tapped (the mounting holes are apparent in your picture). Alternately, you could use a Bendix starter from an earlier B43E, B43G, or B48G engine, after adding an external solenoid and cable. (Note that the Bendix drive is 10-tooth and the solenoid shift drive is 9-tooth, but drive diameter differences must allow for the interchange--comments from Boomer or others on this?).
Harold

 

[boomers_influence]

club
ANY 1986 can use the B inertia style starter
that mounts to the oil pan.
they can also use the solenoid shift starter
that was specific for the 86.
this is the first 86 block that i have seen drilled
for a P starter.
I WOULD stick with the inertia style starter.
the P series seem to have too many problems
with ring gears and drives.
the ring gears are the same for B and P,
BUT i hardly ever see a bad B ring gear.
thank you. boomer (the used onan engine parts guy)

 

[iruossim]

Where can I find a wiring diagram? I've got some recreating to do. I'd like to find someone that makes wiring harnesses. I thought one of us WFM'rs actually does just that. Anyone know who?

Need to buy some parts at mother Deere tomorrow. Not sure I want to know what a wiring harness will cost there.

 

[g_haynes]

Boomer, My '86 318 I'm working on has a "B" engine and that type of starter. I don't know about the project '86 318 I picked up as I haven't had time to dig into it yet. I bought the 318 as a one owner with original engine but who knows!.........Gary

 

[iruossim]

Never mind, found the wiring diagram here: http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/318_Elec_Schematic-199930.pdf

 

[Hammerdown-7]

Hello Matthew
I Picked up a 1991 John Deere 316 Project early last spring and restored it for my son in law. It was in a Lot worse shape than your's and took me six Grueling weeks to build it. It had the Onan P-218 in it with wiring issues ailing it. It now is all done and has Not let him down once, the 316's are great Tractors Good Luck on yours. Regards, Kurt

 

[iruossim]

I'm missing the bushings that space between the fender pan and the frame. Does anyone know how long they are? I'm thinking of just making my own. Thanks.

 

[charms]

The factory "bushing" under the front of the fenderpan is a 1/2" nut.

 

[Hammerdown-7]

Hello Matthew
I have used 1/2" rubber isolator Bushings bought from a hardware store. The rubber Isolator Bushings will keep the metal fender pan from cracking due to vibration. I hope this help's, Kurt

 

[danvan54]

Make sure you follow the Service Manual to check the electrical components on your tractor. I upgraded the inline fuses with a small fuse block and spade type fuses (from NAPA) and solved an intermittent
problem of cutting out from vibration. I also used shock absorber bushings as isolators for the fender pan. Once done, you have a great tractor! Keep us posted with pictures of your progress...