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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thank you again joe (y)

I was able to get the caked on grime scraped off of the tins and scrubbed clean. I did not use gloves with the purple power at full strength when scrubbing the tins clean. So now I have very dry and cracked skin on my fingertips.

Tins are back on the engine and oil is drained. Need a oil filter and some fresh shell Rotella SAE 30w oil before I consider installing it into the 316.

I pulled all the hardware for the 30 tiller off the shelf and realize I need to repair or replace the supply line? It is the bigger line so I’m assuming it is supply line. I am hoping I can just use an internal hose coupler with hose clamps for now to get everything hooked up and working.

My initial couple day estimate to complete all this was and still is way off. New Completion ETA unknown “shoulder shrugs”.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Just got back from being reminded how proud mother deere is of her parts department and prices. OMG over $30 for a simple PTO toggle switch. I normally bypass this safety stuff just to get it running to see how healthy she runs when possible This time I had to shell out the dough. I sprung for a new ignition switch as well. Parts guy said he had to order it and could not will call it for me. Meaning I'd have to make a separate trip to pick it up. I asked him to see if there was a serial number break as I thought there might be and he looked and discovered there was and he actually had the part in stock and cheaper to boot. Got the oil filter and shell rotella 30w. Now I just need to get'r done.
 

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Hate to rub it in, but list price is never on my ticket. Wife works at local dealer. It’s amazing how much some things are marked up. She tells me that all departments are supposed to stand for themselves now. Parts, sales, and service. Meaning they don’t want one to pack the other. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Rub it in because the parts guy was a moron.. wrong oil filter, wrong ignition switch and the PTO toggle switch was missing the nut to fasten it. The box for the PTO switch was open and missing the plastic baggie but i was a bit hung over at the time and just went with it with out actually putting much thought and picturing in my head mounting it on the tractor. I was just happy to have all the parts thinking i was good to go. I feel like being a total D-head in the morning when I go back if the guy is there but I know better. After all he is only human, an infaluable human per how he was acting. I know now not to deal with his dumb A$$ any more and I know I'm being harsh but this will cost me not only my time but my dime in gas etc etc etc.

I'll look up the part numbers and try again in the morning and see what part numbers the next guy pulls up. Perhaps the system they are usung is fubar IDK but ill get to the bottom if it. I normally go in with the part numbers ready for the parts guys to make it easy for them but at the prices deere wants to charge these days I'm like F-it, they should have their heads out of their A$$e$ and know what they are doing. That is why they make the big bucks and get paid to be a parts professional behind the counter. I specifically showed the guy very clear pics of the serial numbers " seen below " for both tractors. They both use the same exact parts as far as i can tell and there is no excuse for this type of thing to happen. Look how little that oil filter is! Can any one tell I am a little PO'd ? Ok end of rant.



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Deere is good about subbing to new numbers and possibly changing filter size. Just giving them the benefit of doubt. But I don’t blame you for going in there prepared with part number in hand. As for them being “parts professionals”, that’s pretty open for discussion….
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well the filter is too small and would leave an opening where the blower housing & filter meet up with the rubber bushing. I don’t have that yet but will be ordering one soon. I read about duct tape over the filter and blower housing but I don’t want sticky tape on the engine lol. Wrong key switch too so yeah I’m not happy about having to go back and ask for a refund.
 

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Down here in NE Tejas, you can still order anything you want/need from the local dealer but you'd better not be on a time line with your repair. Shipping/delivery is totally wanked. Used to be like 2-3 days to get something from Mother Deere country up north...now it's a big unknown. I call with part number, confirm number or sub, and buy there if it's in stock...if not, it's off to the Misinformation Superhighway to find a reputable seller/dealer that can deliver shortly.
Good luck with your chore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Well I ended up with a Napa filter "said to be made by Wix. They did not even have the wix filter in their warehouse :(

I got a full refund at deere only after the next guy charged my card again for the parts i returned. I did not complain or even give off the slightest bit that I was irritated until he told me oops i charged your card instead of crediting your card. 2 days 2 different guys. Sigh... Oh anyway. I'll just order the parts elsewhere from now on or call ahead to check inventory before heading over to deere. This way I'll know im getting the right stuff even though there will be delays if not available or if they are to pricey at the local deere-ler.. I asked about the air filter today at Deere and the 3rd guy said they shipped 3 back in to deere 2019 due to no sales. :/ that tells you how slim the tractor picking are here in N. Cali. It's amazing I have all the junk, ahem tractors that I do :)

New oil filter is on, oil filled and engine resting loosely in its new home for now. Working on cerveza #3 atm. Its frigging hot out here again. Poor baby avacado trees are suffering in the heat :/ 100+ F.

I'll order the air filter, key switch, pto switch and oil filter/gromet on other sights. After I know exactly what I really need. I might try to fix the pto switch if its not working properly. Ok beer 30, time to get back to my beer in the shade.

Oh yeah y'all might notice sandy loam on the oil in the bucket. Got in a hurry and forgot the bucket had some jugs of oil from the engine sitting in it. Oops that was one of my bonehead moves of the day.

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Ok now the frustration is setting in. I am getting just under 9.5v at the coil from the + side to - side of coil as well as at purple wire at the starter relay. I can hear the TDC click on and off with the key when I toggle it on and off or to the start position can't remember which atm.

I changed out the main breaker fuse that connects directly to the battery. Took the one from the 318 and put it on the 316. The Bat + cable is going from the battery to the starter as well as down to the breaker fuse.

The PTO switch itself has continuity when off where the two purple wires get connected and the plug with the two wires for the PTO has continuity as well. So it's not the PTO switch or safety wires going in and out of the PTO switch as far as I can tell.

Any help on this would be great but am thinking it has something to do with the key switch personally. I have considerered disecting the key switch just to see how it operates inside then I could clean up the connections, flow a little solder accross the terminal rivets and terminals for a solid connection and see if that makes a difference. This bugs the heck out of me.

The Bat - cable goes from - side of the battery to the top left side of the engine at the hoist loop then back down to the black round unplugable ground cable going to the innards. The black round unplugable ground cable looks like a very small antenna plug type connection. Perhaps I should check that for continuity from the computer side to the engine to see if there is a short in the ground somewhere as well.

I swapped out the key switch and am thinking it is related to the key switch because it would not even light up the lights on the dash until I swapped out the key switch with another old used one. Terminal to the spade connectors on the switch are loose and wiggle.

I think I'll measure the voltage at the + cable at the starter then try to jump the starter with a make shift cable going from the bat + down to the starter relay where the purple wired plug connects to the starter relay just to see if it'll crank or do anything at all.

JD sure made life much more difficult when it comes to diagnosing these later model tractors. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)

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Down here in NE Tejas, you can still order anything you want/need from the local dealer but you'd better not be on a time line with your repair. Shipping/delivery is totally wanked. Used to be like 2-3 days to get something from Mother Deere country up north...now it's a big unknown. I call with part number, confirm number or sub, and buy there if it's in stock...if not, it's off to the Misinformation Superhighway to find a reputable seller/dealer that can deliver shortly.
Good luck with your chore.
the big JD dealer here in Central Indiana has a web parts business called greenfarmparts.com. the web prices are lower than their bricks and mortar stores, and they normally ship the same day. their closest location is only about 10 miles from me but I normally use the web store to save a few bucks.
 

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N2,

Adding a solder coating to any switch contacts is exactly the wrong thing to do, as the surface of solder oxidizes readily and will not have a 'clean' surface for the mating contact. That is why the contacts are gold flashed when new. After decades of use they get pitted and corroded and the switch needs to be replaced.

For the symptom you noted in your post #29 above, be sure to also check the engine ground connection. When replacing a key switch you also should carefully inspect the mating connectors, as when a key switch gets hot from a poor connection the spring tension of the contacts can weaken and of course the surface can corrode as well.

Sorry you have had such a poor experience at your local dealer -- I pretty much only used the larger on-line parts houses for the last several years, prompted by the local dealer charging shipping on anything they did not have in stock. Since my Deere Garden Tractors are vintage units, he never had much in stock...

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thank you Chuck.

So is it considered a good practice to solder wires together followed by insulating them with heat shrink tubing in order to replace any bad wiring? Now I know I will need to replace the connectors for the switches at the end of the wires too. Parts are too expensive to keep replacing because of one bad connection or set of connections in the circuit.

Does anyone have a good cost effective source for these type of connectors?

How would solder effect the wire under the insulation of the wire and connectors are soldered together?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Found a 100 pice pack of connectors on Amazon to redo all the plugs on the tractors. I should be able to do several tractors with just one bag. I’m going to get these along with the other parts like air filter, key switch, PTO switch and hope and prey this fixes the electrical problems. I’m not sure if these are the right size or heavy duty enough to carry the load for these tractors. I will need to get the crimping tool as well.


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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thinking those femail wire terminals won’t handle the gauge wire on these tractors. As far as I can tell they are good to 14g.

Does anyone know the size or gauge of wire that is used for the tractor wiring of the key switch, PTO switch etc?

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N2,

Those import terminals look to be non-plated so they may not do well in what is basically an exterior environment. They clearly are designed to be crimped onto the wire (not soldered...) with a separate longer set of 'ears' to capture the wire's insulation sleeve as well. This is pretty common for small electronics and some appliances, but does not provide a "gas tight" crimp that is desirable for the tractor application you have. Gas tight crimp terminals have a solid barrel and often a stepped insulation sleeve to deal with the wire insulation overlap. Ratcheting crimp tools are very useful in working with these terminals to ensure a full crimp is achieved...
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If you solder, just know that the molten solder will wick a bit up under the insulation sleeve of the wire itself and cause the assembly to be stiffer at that point. This can cause vibration failures in extreme cases, and is why automotive connections are mostly crimped in production using well controlled tools and terminal types...

Both solder and crimp style butt splice terminals are available for low voltage wiring of the type you are likely to find on vehicles including tractors -- I would never use the insulation displacing types like the Scotch splices often used for temporary trailer harnesses by the rental companies.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Thank you Chuck. Think I’ll hop on my bike and take a cruise to see if radio shack is still here in town, then may as well go to Ace hardware and several auto stores. I’ll see what I can dig up locally. I just hate to spend so much for so little with these retail packaged products.
 

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Home depot and Lowe's often have 100 terminal packages...prices are not TOO bad...
And, at a recent grand opening sale at my local Napa auto parts they had a $15 coupon for any non-sale items of $15 or more (yes up to 100% off !!) I used mine to stock up on terminals just like these.

They had another coupon for $50 off a $100 purchase, which I used to get the parts for a brake job on the Lexus. Gotta save where you can...

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Napa did not have any in stock and would have to order. J.millano, fastenal, ace and napa did not have any. Heading to willies electric before I try slaky bros. Then lowes and the depot.
 
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