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Building a 110, 212, or 214

2K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  dorchestersown 
#1 ·
I have a 2001 425 that runs great most of the time. Once in a while I have side job to go mow where I have to haul it to and from the job site. The problem is when I back off my trailer it starts to sputter and then dies. I try to re-start it and I have no luck. The fuel pump is not humming either. I let it sit for a hour or two and it starts right up and the fuel pump is humming again before I start it. Would a faulty fuel pump be the problem?

Ron
 
#4 ·
im going to build a john deere 110 or 212 or 214 i am rescuing the tractor that i build from being sent to the scrap yard i got my choice of 2 110 frames a 212 frame and a 214 frame im not sure what to build i have a 73 112, and an 80 317 right know i want to build my third tractor i have unlimited access it the tractors for parts and i have a wide range of motors from the one 110 having a 8hp on it to a 10 hp for the 110 and 12 to 16hp for the 212 and 214 i need help figuring out either to build the 110 or the 200 series please give me suggestions
thanks cody
 
#5 ·
What are you planning on doing with the tractor once you are done? Will you use tractor driven attachments or pull-behind? Or will this be a show tractor? If you will put it to work, I would go with a 200 series with 16 horse. If show I would go with the 110.
Ryan
 
#6 ·
both i want to plow snow with it but i want to show it im trying to make it so i can show it and use it but i was told 200 series are complicated but i really want to do it because ive never owned a 200 series ive owned a tone of 110 and 112s
 
#8 ·
"200 series are complicated" What do you mean by this? I have a 214 and do not think it is too hard to work on. It is a little less crowded under the hood with the tank under your seat, plus think of all that extra gas you can carry! I would agree with Steve about having variety, you would have a 100 series, 200 series, and 300 series. After this you can look for a 400 series. The 200 series is show-worthy, I just don't think as much as some others. I will have to see if mine is accepted at a show sometime.

I would definitely go with a 200 series with 16 horse.
 
#9 ·
hey thats is right then alls i would need is a 400 series and your 214 is really nice from the pic i can see of it so thank you for help ill keep posted on the build ill have to get some pics of the frame when i go back
 
#13 ·
I don't believe there was any difference between the 200 series except for the engine and some cosmetics. I would probably go with the 214 though just so the 16 horse matches closer. Just make sure when you order decals that you get the rights ones based on serial number.
 
#14 ·
Cody the only 200 chassis that is really different is the 208 because it didn't come with a variator and you could add one if you really wanted to. If it needs to be a work tractor there were something like 5 or 6 different frames used in the 200 series but most of the changes were do to mounts welded on to make the PTOs work. Roger
 
#15 ·
Cody, you might gain some insight by checking JD parts with the serial numbers of the tractors you are considering for use. 200 series have several different frames, engine cradles/PTO linkages, etc. If you have all the parts available for each tractor it would seem to be pretty straight forward swapping in a 16HP for anything but an 8HP. But.....
I prefer the later style frame that has the clutch and brake operated by the left pedal and brake only on the right pedal. I may be the only one who thinks that feature worthwhile, however.
Have fun with the project.

tommyhawk
 
#16 ·
I agree with Tom Ingels. There are several advantages to using the later 200-series frame, and any of the engine cradles will fit. I also like the mid-series frame with the clutch on the left and the brake on the right, but if you own both you have to remember which one you are driving.
 
#17 ·
LOL Stephan! Exactly my problem. Used a '68 112 for the better part of 30 years before acquiring a '77 212. I now use the 212, an STX46 with the pedal on the right side, and a neighbor's L100 with a single pedal on the left. Can't be day dreaming if a quick stop is imminent.

Cody, one not so comfortable thing about a 200 verses a 100 series, is less leg and belly room. They are best matched to someone about 5' 2" and 130 lbs. IMHO. Good tractors though.

tommyhawk
 
#18 ·
This is what I would actually like to do to my 212. 1: Grind the welds were the front part of the frame is grafted to the lighter rear section. 2: weld the front section from a 72-72 on the 212 frame so I can mount the 72-74 pedestal, hood, grill and all. That way the gas tank would be in the back and I think the 77 hyd lift could be mounted in the 72-74 pedestal. I like the looks of 68-74 better than the 200 series.
 
#19 ·
im not doing a 110 its between a 212 and 214 im pulling the tractor from a tractor junk yard and want to make my own tractor out of 2 i got endless use of the tractor parls in junk yard
 
#22 ·
I have always wanted to build a stretched
200-series to put the steering wheel and pedals a little farther forward from the seat and put the front axle a little farther forward. Hydrostatic power steering like a 318 would be nice. Everything but the deck mounts would be fairly simple.....
 
#23 ·
its desided i got a 214 frame with a motor on is ill post pictures here in a few im calling it the junk yard dog
 
#25 ·
Cody: I did a restoration on a 112 and I must agree with other comments. Check out availability of dash decal etc. My 72 electric lift electric pto decal was very difficult to find also it was the only year with a pto heat resister. And, my 214 is my go to machine for around the yard. After the restoration of the 112 I find the 214 very easy to work on. Not that I have to work on it much.
 
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