Bull gear ?
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A bull gear is used for Gear Reduction, for example, you have an engine spinning at 3600 rpm through a tranny that is 1-1 in 3rd gear. You cant send that to a rearend, it would be too fast. So you have a bull gear reduction housing at the front of the rearend, like 7-1 in the case of a Cub Cadet using a 7 tooth pinion and 84 tooth Bull Gear. Now you are spinning 514 rpm. Then it is transmitted to the ring and pinion of the rearend, 4.6-1 in the case of a Cub for a final axle rpm of 112. With a 23 inch diameter tire, that equates to 7.6 mph top speed. I believe early 140's used a Bull Gear reduction whereas later 140s had ring and pinion only. I'm open for correction on this. Kenny
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1,202 Posts
Hi Jim. The later 140's as well as 120, 300, 312, 314, 316 Kohler and 317 still used a pinion and bull gear reduction arrangement, just in a different spot. For those tractors it had a pinion on the motor output shaft of the hydro that fed a bull gear on the shaft that led to a conventional ring and pinion type differential where the early style had the bull gear as the differential gear (since with the 90 degree orientation of the hydro motor there was no need for a conventional ring and pinion to turn the power 90 degrees to the axles). I don't know which design might be "stronger", but the later style hydro was probably a bit easier to "package" into the chassis and might have been a bit cheaper to buy. As a side note, the reduction gear/ring & pinion/rear axle housing on these later tractors was a Dana GT-20 assembly and was used in at least New Holland and maybe early Ariens garden tractors if not also in some other brands and is still available today (at least it is still shown on Dana's web site). I have never seen the early 140 style axle housing in any other brand (but that doesn't mean it wasn't used in other applications).
Kent
Kent
thanks kent ,i have an early style 140....i like the way it looks with the silver hydro and green engine, but i would rather have the "new" style because of part availability for the rear drive unit....i hope i never have to look for any parts i saw a ton of those dreaded letters in the parts book N-L-A
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912 Posts
"N-L-A" = <u>N</u>ow you <u>L</u>ooking for <u>A</u>nother parts source... Mark
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10 Posts
Hey guys...
I just started one thread about my problems with a 212 carb. I also have a problem with my 111 that I thought I would run by you.
Earlier tonight the 11 hp Briggs engine just up and died on me while mowing the lawn. It had been running pretty rough all night and it just suddenly died.
I pushed it into the garage and verified that I am not getting a bit of fire.
About two years ago I replaced the condenser and the points and it has been ran very little since that time. My 212 is my main mower and the only time I use this mower is when the 212 goes down.
What are the most likely culprits for my no fire situation?
Should I start by checking the points, coil, condenser?
I'm not real good with these small engines so I would really appreciate some help.
Dave
I just started one thread about my problems with a 212 carb. I also have a problem with my 111 that I thought I would run by you.
Earlier tonight the 11 hp Briggs engine just up and died on me while mowing the lawn. It had been running pretty rough all night and it just suddenly died.
I pushed it into the garage and verified that I am not getting a bit of fire.
About two years ago I replaced the condenser and the points and it has been ran very little since that time. My 212 is my main mower and the only time I use this mower is when the 212 goes down.
What are the most likely culprits for my no fire situation?
Should I start by checking the points, coil, condenser?
I'm not real good with these small engines so I would really appreciate some help.
Dave
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10,708 Posts
A 111 is a late model so you will get better results posting in the Late Model Forum. If it has been sitting a long time it may also need a carburetor rebuild. You didn't by any chance put gas in both tractors from the same gas can? Could just be dirty gas in both of the tractors. Roger
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10 Posts
Roger, thanks for the reply.
I actually went to the late model forum first but could not find a link to post a new thread. On the main page it says something like "not accepting new posts on this page".
Dave
I actually went to the late model forum first but could not find a link to post a new thread. On the main page it says something like "not accepting new posts on this page".
Dave
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10 Posts
I thought I would go ahead and give an update on the 111....
I had it in mind to check the points to see if that was the problem with my no fire.
The points looked perfect but that was not the case with one of the wires going under the rotor from the coil. One of the wires had a crack which I assume was allowing it to short out on the block.
A little electrical tape over the bare wire and a quick shine on the flywheel magnets and rotor and it's now running better than it has in quite some time.
Dave
I had it in mind to check the points to see if that was the problem with my no fire.
The points looked perfect but that was not the case with one of the wires going under the rotor from the coil. One of the wires had a crack which I assume was allowing it to short out on the block.
A little electrical tape over the bare wire and a quick shine on the flywheel magnets and rotor and it's now running better than it has in quite some time.
Dave
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