Weekend Freedom Machines banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a few of 140's but this is my first one with the newer rearend style in it. All I have done is rolled it in the garage and got it running for the first time in years and runs great. Once I put in drive it does nothing. I also know the trick with the knob under the seat and have that completely closed as tight as I can get it. I have not changed the oil or filter but really don't want to dump a lot Into it if it's not going to work. Is there any other tricks with these newer rearends? Does have fluid in it enough to make it work. Yeah could use some but shouldn't effect it from not moving completely. Any info would be great. Thanks Kalin.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,819 Posts
On the newer 140s, the knob has to be turned out to drive. Also the little buttons on the check valves that get pushed down when the knob is turned in, can stick in the down position, and thereby prevent movement.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
7,564 Posts
This little buttons on the freewheeling valve are probably stuck down. Start by soaking them in on blaster, or similar product. Then lightly tap them while running the tractor to see if you can free them up.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Take off the fender pan. Clean around the relief valves.
Since you screwed down the bolt so tight they are probably stuck "all" the way in. Put some lube on the valves and rev the motor up to build pressure up. If the pins are sticking up at all, you can tap lightly on the pins to see if they will break loose. If not, you will need to take them out.

Use an impact with a 6 point socket would be best.
Turn them upside down in the vise Use a punch thru the hole to push on the ball. Try to not hit the ball hard enough to cause a flat spot on the ball. Work the plungers back and forth until they move freely.
After you get the plungers to move, put them back in and let's hope that's all that is wrong with it.

Good luck.
Max
 

· Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I took the pan off the other day and my check valves move up and down very well actually but it is absolutely coated with thick dirt like it sat in a barn for years. So having those free what else? Next step is to bring to car wash and power wash the heck out of it. No I did notice the one line that goes to one of the check valve to the hydraulic pump is kinked and the oil filter has a been hit and bent in on the bottom like it hit something hard. Doesn't leak and the fluid looks great. When I start the motor. Rev it up and put it forward gear. I kind of here a sound like it's working not the load winning like my others do. Have to put a stethoscope to hear it. Afraid my next step is throw some money at it and change the fluid and filter and that line. Just hate spending money on things to find out its bad. Been there.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
7,564 Posts
If the suction hose directly below the filter is collapsed you won't get any function either. I would replace the filter before trying any more too, just for safety. Then check the roll pin that locks the driveshaft to the pump.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
kB what is the roll pin that locks the driveshaft you talk about and location? I notice when I push on the left pedal. It pulls the drive shaft forward towards motor? Is that normal or is something hitting or pulling the drive shaft?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I got it fixed. I ended up changing the fluids and filter and added new fluids and worked really really well. It's been years since this tractor as ran. Thanks all for the advice. Will say these newer tranny's are a pain in the but to change oil. Draining the fluids mainly.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top