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Changing water pump on 332 questions.

1582 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  marcus_i
Well, I recently picked up a nice 87 332 with the 50" mower, a 54" blade, powerflo bagger and tire chains. So far it is an awesome tractor. I do however need to change the water pump as it is leaking fairly bad. I was hoping that the dealer could just rebuild these, but I guess they are only sold as a unit now. Anyway I am getting my new pump on Monday to install. Are there any caveats or pitfalls doing this? Any tips for doing it correctly? I have changed the water pump on my ford 302 before so I am somewhat familiar with this type of thing.

Couple of questions. Is it recommended to just use RTV sealant instead of a gasket? Do any of the bolts go into any water jackets, so I should put thread sealer on them? Put thread sealer on all the bolts? Also while it is out, I am going to go ahead and get the radiator cleaned out.

Just a couple other notes, I have been taking this thing apart a bit to clean it all out and check things over. Found a worn bushing on the rear linkage of the hydro linkage assembly so that will get replaced. Also I have changed the transmission oil and will be doing the engine oil this week. It has been interesting looking for and finding all of the grease fittings too. Any that are hard to find? I also checked over the frame and there are no signs of cracking. While I am inside the thing is there anything else I should be looking for to do maintenance on? I didn't realize it at the time of purchase, or that it was supposed to be there at all, but there is no belly screen. Is this a seriously important part if things aren't going to be poking up from underneath?

Thanks for the help and sorry for all the questions.
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Yes, belly screen is very important in that it helps keep radiator clean for good cooling efficiency... especially while mowing or kicking up dust. The cooling system on these tractors is a bit undersized for the job, thus needing extra maintenance. Having radiator cleaned and/or cored out is a very good idea. Also, I use JD Coolguard antifreeze in my 332 because of the SCA (supplemental cooling additives), which I believe are needed for diesels in general. Others can better explain why.

Consider replacing the belt while radiator is out.

U-joint grease fittings are probably the ones most hidden.

Look for signs of corrosion under the battery, caused by over charging, and acid boil over. Mine needed a new voltage regulator and starter improvement kit to keep battery from being over charged. Check that all electrical connections and grounds are good and tight. Dielectric grease helps. Look for signs of overheated wire insulation.
When I purchased my 332 the owner of the JD Dealer wouldn't let me pick it up because it was running warm. They had the radiator boiled, and it has run great since. The mechanic that removed the radiator went ahead and removed the water pump, cleaned off the gasket, and used RTV silicone when he put the water pump back on. He said that was the biggest reason he has had to work on the yanmar because the water pump seals are junk, and dry out and crack. He told me to never use the seal, and just use RTV.
Thanks for the feedback so far. I did find that grease fitting on the u-joint and packed it full of grease. Looked like it hadn't been greased for awhile. Also that connector between the alternator and regulator was almost melted off. I just cut it off and soldered some higher gauge wire in place and now the wire there doesn't even get warm. The stock wire above and below the patch are warm to hot after use. Why did they use such a tiny wire between the alternator and regulator anyway? Doesn't that lead to more electrical resistance and extra heat?

Alright, thanks for the tip on the RTV vs gasket and the diesel coolant.

Anybody have a tip on the bolts? Just wire wheel them clean and put em back in, or put thread sealer on it?
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