go to jdparts and look up MCS. it may take some poking around but you should find it.
Clamshell Bagger ID?
Just purchased a Power Pak leaf bagger. It has a large plastic case that opens like a clamshell and a separate Kawasaki engine. Need some parts for the unit, but I cannot seem to find the model number anywhere. The motor has the FA210D on it, but that doesn't produce any results on the Deere parts page. Searched everywhere on this site, but haven't been able to locate a picture / write-up on this unit.
Wife already complains about my deafness, now I must be going blind as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Kevin
Wife already complains about my deafness, now I must be going blind as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Kevin
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Hi Kevin. Since I don't have a picture of what you are working on, here are some parts catalogs to look through on JD Parts Online. Just use the catalog number search to find them (don't type in the "PC" though, just the four digit number when putting that in the search box).
Dump-Tilt Hydraulic Material Collection System PC1965
MSC Power Flow, 1 & 2-Baggers for 38, 46, 48, 50, 54 & 60-In. Mower Decks PC2111
Power-Pak 3-Bag Material Collection System PC2131
Power-Pak Hydraulic-Dump Material Collection System PC2130
Power-Pak Material Collection System PC2112
Power-Pak Tilt-Dump Material Collection System PC2129
Since you have the Power-Pak engine, I would assume it is one of those (where the regular tilt dump/hydraulic dump MCS systems used the tractor to power the rear mounted fan assembly either through the 2000 RPM rear PTO or a belt driven rear drive assembly). Also, the Power Flow systems used a deck driven/mounted blower assembly rather than a seperate engine. I included all the tractor mounted collection system parts catalogs though, "just in case" you needed them.
Kent
Dump-Tilt Hydraulic Material Collection System PC1965
MSC Power Flow, 1 & 2-Baggers for 38, 46, 48, 50, 54 & 60-In. Mower Decks PC2111
Power-Pak 3-Bag Material Collection System PC2131
Power-Pak Hydraulic-Dump Material Collection System PC2130
Power-Pak Material Collection System PC2112
Power-Pak Tilt-Dump Material Collection System PC2129
Since you have the Power-Pak engine, I would assume it is one of those (where the regular tilt dump/hydraulic dump MCS systems used the tractor to power the rear mounted fan assembly either through the 2000 RPM rear PTO or a belt driven rear drive assembly). Also, the Power Flow systems used a deck driven/mounted blower assembly rather than a seperate engine. I included all the tractor mounted collection system parts catalogs though, "just in case" you needed them.
Kent
You guys are clearly masters of the parts system. The unit I have is the:
Power-Pak Tilt-Dump Material Collection System PC2129
Basically a Samsonite with a hose attached. I'll have to call Deere tomorrow for a manual to find out how to hook this thing up to the machine.
Thanks guys for you help,
Kevin
Power-Pak Tilt-Dump Material Collection System PC2129
Basically a Samsonite with a hose attached. I'll have to call Deere tomorrow for a manual to find out how to hook this thing up to the machine.
Thanks guys for you help,
Kevin
Kevin i have that same bagger on a 318 with a pto drive. your going to love it if you have a 50" deck.
Richard - Do you have the 3-point hookup or the fixed? With the pto drive, I would assume you have the fixed mount.
This one has the fixed mounts and I'm not sure where the retainers (reference P.I.D. 31 in catalog PC2129) attach to. I have the pins in place on the MCS, but how (if they do) do they attach to the tractor?
I was originally thinking that I was missing a bracket to attach these to the rockshaft. The diagrams would seem to indicated that I have everything.
Kevin
This one has the fixed mounts and I'm not sure where the retainers (reference P.I.D. 31 in catalog PC2129) attach to. I have the pins in place on the MCS, but how (if they do) do they attach to the tractor?
I was originally thinking that I was missing a bracket to attach these to the rockshaft. The diagrams would seem to indicated that I have everything.
Kevin
Hi, I have a JD 455 that will not engage the mid PTO. I have been through the trouble shooting in the manual and found that the pto solenoid is receiving 12 volts. I have also tested the charge pump pressure and it checked out ok.
What does not make sense is that the mid PTO pressure test does not pass, I get 0 psi when running this test which makes me think there is something wrong with the PTO solenoid.
I was wondering whether there is a way of testing the solenoid? when I say it is receiving 12 volts I do this by testing the voltage in the solenoid connecting plug.
I initially was leaning to a bad PTO clutch but a 0 psi reading on the mid pto pressure test makes me think its the solenoid.
Many thanks.
What does not make sense is that the mid PTO pressure test does not pass, I get 0 psi when running this test which makes me think there is something wrong with the PTO solenoid.
I was wondering whether there is a way of testing the solenoid? when I say it is receiving 12 volts I do this by testing the voltage in the solenoid connecting plug.
I initially was leaning to a bad PTO clutch but a 0 psi reading on the mid pto pressure test makes me think its the solenoid.
Many thanks.
Test the impedance (Ohms) of the PTO solenoid coil . The Tech Manual should give you the resistance parameters . Sounds like you have an open coil .
Dave
Dave
Could it be that it has 12 volts but not enough current to make the solenoid engage the PTO? Possibly the info in this thread might help also if the test David mentioned is OK. Here is a link
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/60944/164959.html
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/60944/164959.html
Matt, per TM1517 the PTO solenoid should have a maximum of 0.1 ohms resistance, and if you're getting battery voltage at the connector, that's what you should check next.
I agree it's likely it has failed open - if it were shorted out you'd be popping fuses.
Tim
I agree it's likely it has failed open - if it were shorted out you'd be popping fuses.
Tim
Matt,
There is a lube oil reduction valve that drops the charge pump pressure down before it gets to the PTO solenoid. If the PTO solenoid itself checks out OK, you may want to (not necessarily in this order):
1) remove a test plug on the rear upper left side of the transmission (as viewed from the rear) and see that you have 150 - 200 psi without the PTO solenoid energized. If not, and especially if your 455 is an older model or if the rear transmission cover has been removed, you may have a bad O-ring (most likely the oval shaped one) at the top of rear transmission cover. The older transmission covers didn't have "fingers" to keep the oval O-rings correctly positioned and the O-ring can work it's way inward creating a leak. If that O-ring is not positioned correctly or becomes deformed you stand to loose most, if not all, PTO pressure. You can see my struggles with an intermittent PTO issue and a pic of a bad oval O-ring in this thread: http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/60944/187477.html?1348436599
2) check to see if the lube oil reduction valve (located on front, upper left side of transmission as viewed from the rear) has dirt or sludge that could be blocking the internal PTO oil passageway.
TimF
There is a lube oil reduction valve that drops the charge pump pressure down before it gets to the PTO solenoid. If the PTO solenoid itself checks out OK, you may want to (not necessarily in this order):
1) remove a test plug on the rear upper left side of the transmission (as viewed from the rear) and see that you have 150 - 200 psi without the PTO solenoid energized. If not, and especially if your 455 is an older model or if the rear transmission cover has been removed, you may have a bad O-ring (most likely the oval shaped one) at the top of rear transmission cover. The older transmission covers didn't have "fingers" to keep the oval O-rings correctly positioned and the O-ring can work it's way inward creating a leak. If that O-ring is not positioned correctly or becomes deformed you stand to loose most, if not all, PTO pressure. You can see my struggles with an intermittent PTO issue and a pic of a bad oval O-ring in this thread: http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/60944/187477.html?1348436599
2) check to see if the lube oil reduction valve (located on front, upper left side of transmission as viewed from the rear) has dirt or sludge that could be blocking the internal PTO oil passageway.
TimF
Thanks guys, I will runs some tests hopefully tonight. Tim regarding your bad o-ring, I assume this also applies to a mid PTO not just a rear pto?
Matt -
To answer your last Question - Both mid and rear pto operate on the same solenoid and oil circuit . When you add the optional rear pto kit along with the hardware , there is the Manual lever to select between (front/mid) only ,(rear) only , or (both) simultaneously .
Dave
To answer your last Question - Both mid and rear pto operate on the same solenoid and oil circuit . When you add the optional rear pto kit along with the hardware , there is the Manual lever to select between (front/mid) only ,(rear) only , or (both) simultaneously .
Dave
well im hope im doing this correctly, I connected the multimeter to the solenoid plug and it read 0.01 (not 0.1) at 20k.
I also did the pressure test you described Tim and I got a very small reading maybe 50PSI.
so im guessing both could be a problem?? is it true in saying that replacing the solenoid will not fix the lack of pressure in Tims test? if so I think im might check for blockages in this oil circuit first before replacing the solenoid.
I also did the pressure test you described Tim and I got a very small reading maybe 50PSI.
so im guessing both could be a problem?? is it true in saying that replacing the solenoid will not fix the lack of pressure in Tims test? if so I think im might check for blockages in this oil circuit first before replacing the solenoid.
Just a little history on this mower I bought it as a non functioning mower. I am slowing fixing things and the mid pto is the last item to fix before it can commence mowing. So I wouldnt be suprised if both things do need fixing
Matt, I am not sure you are reading your meter correctly, or maybe I'm not understanding what you said, specifically the "at 20K." If the resistance really was 0.01 ohms you'd be blowing fuses.
You want to use the lowest resistance setting on your meter, and connect one lead to the solenoid connector (which should be unplugged from the lead wire) and one to the ground (the tractor frame).
Most homeowner meters have trouble reading below about an ohm, so as long as you're not reading a much higher value, the solenoid is probably OK. I think we can rule out a dead short - again, because if you had that you'd be blowing fuses.
I think that replacing the solenoid would not fix the lack of pressure, as that's tested with the PTO off.
Tim
You want to use the lowest resistance setting on your meter, and connect one lead to the solenoid connector (which should be unplugged from the lead wire) and one to the ground (the tractor frame).
Most homeowner meters have trouble reading below about an ohm, so as long as you're not reading a much higher value, the solenoid is probably OK. I think we can rule out a dead short - again, because if you had that you'd be blowing fuses.
I think that replacing the solenoid would not fix the lack of pressure, as that's tested with the PTO off.
Tim
Well I took the rear cover off and everything looked ok. There were no blockages in any of the small holes that the oil travels through and the o-rings were all there, most had gone hard but they were there.
I suppose the best thing I can do is install 2 new o-rings and see if this increases the pressure. Are there any other o-rings that I should be looking out for? the o-ring on the PTO brake cylinder I have already replaced.
Photos are here -
[URL="http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m577/Matt_Stone/photo4_zps583f26cf.jpg[/IMG]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m577/Matt_Stone/photo4_zps583f26cf.jpg[/URL]
[URL="http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m577/Matt_Stone/photo2_zps6cdadb07.jpg[/IMG]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m577/Matt_Stone/photo2_zps6cdadb07.jpg[/URL]
I suppose the best thing I can do is install 2 new o-rings and see if this increases the pressure. Are there any other o-rings that I should be looking out for? the o-ring on the PTO brake cylinder I have already replaced.
Photos are here -
[URL="http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m577/Matt_Stone/photo4_zps583f26cf.jpg[/IMG]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m577/Matt_Stone/photo4_zps583f26cf.jpg[/URL]
[URL="http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m577/Matt_Stone/photo2_zps6cdadb07.jpg[/IMG]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m577/Matt_Stone/photo2_zps6cdadb07.jpg[/URL]
Matt,
Although I would expect your transmission would be leaking without sealant, I'm assuming the pics are after you removed the sealant from the mating surfaces of the transmission and transmission cover. When replacing the cover, make sure the sealant has plenty of time to cure before adding the hydraulic fluid or you wil risk having leaks...I had to let the RTV sealant set for 24hrs.
Other than pulling the PTO Clutch and PTO Clutch brake shoe / piston out of the transmission, I haven't been any deeper into the transmission. I can't remember if there were any other seals / O-rings in the PTO clutch assembly or not. Since your transmission cover doesn't have the "fingers" to hold the oval O-ring in place, you are going to want to use a paper clip to insure the oval O-ring stays on the seats while you put the cover back on and tighten the bolts. I was pretty sure a deformed oval O-ring was your problem, so I'm pretty much at a loss now, however, replacing the two O-rings could still do the trick.
A word of caution when reinstalling the rear PTO cover. You may find that the cover aligning studs may not fully align without exerting force on the cover (from left to right as viewed from the rear). This is due to the PTO brake compression springs. Even though the Deere folks say it is OK to gently pry the cover with a screwdriver, I would not do that....at least one member here cracked the rear cover doing so. The best thing is to partially remove the PTO brake inspection cover on the upper right rear to release the pressure applied by the 3 concentric PTO brake springs. (I assume you removed the cover entirely in order to change the PTO brake O-ring).
Also, if you want to know if the PTO solenoid is working, you could remove the PTO brake cover, remove the two smaller springs and then replace the cover (when doing so, insure the PTO brake shoe piston stays firmly in place to insure the brake shoe doesn't fall off). This should remove enough brake pressure against the PTO clutch to allow the 50lbs of pressure you do have to drive the PTO clutch under no load. Don't forget to put the two springs back once you are done.
I'm hoping the O-rings do the trick...otherwise you are blazing new territory here.
TimF
Although I would expect your transmission would be leaking without sealant, I'm assuming the pics are after you removed the sealant from the mating surfaces of the transmission and transmission cover. When replacing the cover, make sure the sealant has plenty of time to cure before adding the hydraulic fluid or you wil risk having leaks...I had to let the RTV sealant set for 24hrs.
Other than pulling the PTO Clutch and PTO Clutch brake shoe / piston out of the transmission, I haven't been any deeper into the transmission. I can't remember if there were any other seals / O-rings in the PTO clutch assembly or not. Since your transmission cover doesn't have the "fingers" to hold the oval O-ring in place, you are going to want to use a paper clip to insure the oval O-ring stays on the seats while you put the cover back on and tighten the bolts. I was pretty sure a deformed oval O-ring was your problem, so I'm pretty much at a loss now, however, replacing the two O-rings could still do the trick.
A word of caution when reinstalling the rear PTO cover. You may find that the cover aligning studs may not fully align without exerting force on the cover (from left to right as viewed from the rear). This is due to the PTO brake compression springs. Even though the Deere folks say it is OK to gently pry the cover with a screwdriver, I would not do that....at least one member here cracked the rear cover doing so. The best thing is to partially remove the PTO brake inspection cover on the upper right rear to release the pressure applied by the 3 concentric PTO brake springs. (I assume you removed the cover entirely in order to change the PTO brake O-ring).
Also, if you want to know if the PTO solenoid is working, you could remove the PTO brake cover, remove the two smaller springs and then replace the cover (when doing so, insure the PTO brake shoe piston stays firmly in place to insure the brake shoe doesn't fall off). This should remove enough brake pressure against the PTO clutch to allow the 50lbs of pressure you do have to drive the PTO clutch under no load. Don't forget to put the two springs back once you are done.
I'm hoping the O-rings do the trick...otherwise you are blazing new territory here.
TimF
Matt -
I've been studying the hydraulic flow schematic in the service manual I have , trying to see a cause and remedy for your situation . That said ; the thing that comes to my mind would be to pull and inspect the pto pressure control valve . They are spring loaded , and the type that I've seen develop wear in these Kansaki (Tuff-Torq) trans-axles . The service manual even goes into a little detail about "shimming" the spring tension of this particular valve for the desired pressure . Not with-standing a severely worn valve assembly (I have seen this in the past) , they can be tightened up to give more pressure . If you have not investigated this valve yet , I would think it would be the next logical path of analysis ; as I see and understand the Hydraulic flow chart . This type valve is subject to vibration forces if the stem or guide gets a little wear in them , next thing you know they don't seat correctly and will loose their' effectiveness to hold pressure .
Just a shot in the dark .
Dave
I've been studying the hydraulic flow schematic in the service manual I have , trying to see a cause and remedy for your situation . That said ; the thing that comes to my mind would be to pull and inspect the pto pressure control valve . They are spring loaded , and the type that I've seen develop wear in these Kansaki (Tuff-Torq) trans-axles . The service manual even goes into a little detail about "shimming" the spring tension of this particular valve for the desired pressure . Not with-standing a severely worn valve assembly (I have seen this in the past) , they can be tightened up to give more pressure . If you have not investigated this valve yet , I would think it would be the next logical path of analysis ; as I see and understand the Hydraulic flow chart . This type valve is subject to vibration forces if the stem or guide gets a little wear in them , next thing you know they don't seat correctly and will loose their' effectiveness to hold pressure .
Just a shot in the dark .
Dave
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