[tommyhawk]

I too was wondering if that "regulator" is actually a "cutout" on your tractor. My Dad's '49 and our '50 B's had a regulator. I never learned anything about a cutout except they were less expensive to replace. I have never seen the amp gage register that far over, even with a battery so low it had to be jump started, on the B's I have run. You might consider buying a proper regulator and try to figure out the wiring. Hopefully it has not been modified to use the cutout, if that is what it is.
As to replacing the gages, I think you can just unbolt the back piece without removing the hood. I would suggest unhooking the oil pressure line at the crankcase first. The wires and temp gage feed will give a little, but you won't want to kink the oil line.
You might also consider charging the battery, and take it to be load tested to make sure it is good. Also replace the battery cable ends. The positive ground cable is easy to replace with a new one. It would be good to be sure it has a good clean non rusty connection to the tractor.
Here's some pics that might help.

Gage and wiring connections.

Delco style regulator. This is an aftermarket unit that has worked as it should for 10 years, so far.

tommyhawk

 

[tommyhawk]

I'm not sure what the extra wire shown with the neg terminal is. My son made the new neg cable from some spare welding cable. He added the white wire and black wire. IIRC the white one is attached to the switch on the starter where the neg (hot) cable attaches and goes up to the light switch. The black one comes from the light switch and is the power (hot) wire for the rear work light. The original cable was so bad it was scrapped so we just wired how we thought it should be. By 1952, the wiring may have been changed in this area. I dunno!
We used the after market braided cable for the ground. Not sure what the original was.
To get the old neg cable out, I believe you will need to remove the F/W cover. I see at least one clip that attaches with one of the 4-6 slider cover bolts. Remove starter cover to get to the starter switch connection. The foot rest may have to be removed also.
If you don't want to go through all that just now, whack off the old clamp, trim off some insulation to see if the old cable is corroded badly. If so, go for the new cable now. If you see nice clean copper strands, put on a new clamp and let 'er rip. I prefer the clamp type that has a hole in the end and a set screw to tighten against the cable. Some of these can be soldered to the cable. The two bolt "saddle clamp" type will work, but can be troublesome over time.

More pics for reference.

tommyhawk

 

[tommyhawk]

Seems strange that shorted lights could stop the engine. It does have a Wico magneto doesn't it?
Just a note in case you haven't heard of it or seen it in the manual. The mag equipped tractors can be started by removing the small plate from the flywheel cover, removing the steering wheel, and use the special tool to turn the flywheel. Getting the steering wheel off the first time on a 70 year old tractor might be a different challenge!
I think the adapter came with the tractor when new, but most of them seem to disappear. Here's a picture of the style "crank" that should fit your model with the cross pin type hub. Earlier models were slightly different because the flywheel hub is different.

I recall my Dad using this method to start his H JD while we were way back in the field and the battery wouldn't turn it over. He always had an adjustable wrench, small ball peen hammer, and a couple of screw drivers in the tool box. Pretty sure we didn't even have a battery charger then. Had to take them to a service station in town. Anybody remember when there were "Service Stations" ? lol

tommyhawk

 

[tommyhawk]

Yep, exactly right. Can be used when hand starting, low battery, extra cold engine, or if the engine gets flooded badly, open them to let the gas blow out. Turn the levers straight down to open them then turn back either way to close them.
Word of caution, if engine starts, wear a good leather glove when reaching under there to close them. She will be spitting fire and it is hot. BTDT!

tommyhawk

 

[tommyhawk]

Just changing the battery wouldn't require the gen. to be polarized. It would probably show discharge or no charge if the polarization was backward. I don't even know if a cutout requires polarization. This nity grity of the electrical system is my weakness though. Engine off gage at 0 is good. Engine off, lights on, gage shows discharge is normal. What does the gage read with the engine running and lights on?

I realize you don't have a money tree out back, but would still suggest you get a proper voltage regulator and wire it correctly. They usually come with instructions to polarize them. I'm only thinking the high charge rate with the cutout will overcharge the battery, or make it boil over and shorten it's life. Never having run a tractor with a cutout, what you read about a switch that lets the operator control when the extra charging is needed, does sound familiar. Maybe just switch it off unless when using the lights on a magneto equipped ignition. On mine, the amp gage never "pegs out" after starting, even if the battery is somewhat low. Not sure what the actual amperage is at that point. Then it gradually falls back to a low rate of charge. It the engine isn't running at somewhere around half throttle, it may swing to the discharge side a little if the lights are on. Speed it up and it will show on the charge side again. All normal operation for a 6 or 12 volt generator and voltage regulator.

Many of you have grown up with the alternator, which also uses a regulator and rectifier, usually a transistor type, and internal to the alternator. Cars and trucks started using the alternator commonly about 1963 if I remember correctly. Tractors, probably soon after as it is a superior system. Even at idle that system can keep the battery charging with a normal load from head and tail lights on. Added lights, big fan motors, and all the other standard electrical draw on modern vehicles require higher amp alternators. Seems like 35 amp was sufficient on most of them back in the day, except police and emergency vehicles. I think 200+ amp is common now.

Our old B came with hacked up wiring, no lights, and a single wire alternator, which we got rid of. Replaced it with the original type genny just because we wanted the tractor to be like the factory built it. If it was a daily worker, I would switch it to a 12V alternator again. The starter doesn't seem to burn out too quickly with the 12V. Sure cranks 'er over faster! No experience with the actual starter life however.

tommyhawk