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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple weeks ago I picked up a 318. Luckily, shortly after I got it we got dumped on with snow. I was able to use it right away. Everything worked out fine except for a few things.

One thing that I noticed is that just off the neutral position, it seems to move a little too fast. Its seems to me that when I used my father in laws 317, some 8 years ago, that just off neutral it seemed to crawl, which theroretically, thats what it should do. Although it seems to move way to fast until the motor is loaded, like when I start to blow snow then it slows down. I dont think that this can be resolved by an adjustment in the linkage.

I went to my dealer and picked up filters and oil for both the hydro and engine which I plan to change soon, now thinking that this may be a fluid issue? And also for peace of mind to change fluids not knowing when the previous owners changed them last.

The next question I have is that after removing most of the tins to "check things over", I noticed the lever along the frame for the manually pushing the tractor. Both the "buttons" on the top of the "valve body?" are frozen. I lightly tapped them with a screwdriver and hammer but they didnt budge. I sprayed a little PB's Blaster to free them up. The question is, is that the tractor moves easily with out this lever, or the buttons depressed. How come?

And lastly while checking things over I tilted the fuel tank up against the steering wheel to move it out of the way. After doing this gas started to drip out of the fuel pump. I noticed on a fuel pump listed on ebay that the lower to ports have caps on them, mine does not. Are both of these lower ports suppose to be capped?

Sorry for the long post, and thanks for the help.
 

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John,

I have a 317 and a 318. I also noticed that the 318 was faster just off neutral. They have different transmissions so I assume that is the reason.

Since most owners do not even know where the transmission release is located, many tractors have never had the valves operated. Try soaking the buttons overnight with PB and a little heat from a trouble light or heat lamp. This will help soften the o rings a little. Then gently tap the buttons with a hammer. If they go in but do not return, just take them out and free them up.

I cannot move my 318 without depressing the buttons. Sounds like the buttons are operated?

Hope this helps,

George of Buford
 

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John, my 318 has similar symptoms when moving out of neutral/stop position. Much more abrupt than my 314. There is or should be a shock absorber on the hydro lever to smooth out motion. I assumed my shock absorber was just shot! There are previous posts about a kit to repair the shock absorber system, but it is no longer available from JD. So I just decided to live with the abrupt change in motion and try to ease the lever forward (or back) from stop position. Some day I'll get around to fixing it somehow, or verify that the buttons are not stuck as George Liskey suggested. Hope this helps with understanding, Dave
 

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This abrupt jump from start is not correct. My 86' 318 is nice and even from a dead stop. You need to fix the problem with the "free wheel" lever before suspecting anything else is wrong. Any internal bleed off on the drive hydraulics from the lever being partially engaged will give unpredictable performance.

Once you have freed the buttons, it's a good practice to work the level a couple times a year to prevent this as well as the other hydro levers even if they arn't used.

The heat lamp is a good idea, I'll have to try it next time I have a stuck spool!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I got the buttons to depress and now they both work good. I had to remove both of them and soak them in hot water but they work now. Still dont know about the speed issue. I think it may be related to hydro fluid. That my next plan is to change all the fluids.
 

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John - Older 318s did not come with the hydro damper control kit from the factory. A co-worker of mine has an '84 318 and his jumps off the line like a nervous race horse and does not have the damper. My '92 318 starts off smoothly, and does have the damper. - Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well mine doesnt really jump off the line, it actually will slowly pick up speed and then when the motor gets loaded down it will slow down to its speed that it should be. If that makes any sense.
 

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I brought my friend's box store deere home to see if I could get it running right for him. It is an L108 with 18.5 HP briggs. It will only start at full throttle (choke) position and will only run at that setting. As soon as you idle it down with the throttle, it dies. This sat for 3 years so I put a can of sea foam in it and let it run for a while with no change. I then removed the intake and carb, disassembled, cleaned everything with carb cleaner, re-assembled and no change. The governor linkage just goes back and forth crazy while running. Any suggestions would greatly help.
thanks in advance.
 

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CHad,

I am no expert, but am working on a friends LX 173 with a 15 hp Kohler that will only run wide open, plus some. Finally took it to a small engine repair guy (after cleaning the carb) and he told me the govenor was bad. I don't have the new one yet, but plan on ripping into it this weekend.

Wonder if your govenor is bad?

Todd
 

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Chad, from your first post, my guess is that the governor is working. You stated the gov. linkage was going back and forth "crazy". Not getting proper fuel mix at low idle or fast idle would make the gov. react trying to stabilize the engine RPM.
I have to think there is still some **** in the tiny holes in the jet, nozzle, or carb. body. I don't know which carb. your engine has, but the newer designs just don't like any restrictions. Once you have soaked it well, rinsed and blown it out, try you best to find all the passages and be sure they are clean. Good luck!

tommyhawk
 

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Chad, if the throttle arm is cycling, the governor is working.

On a typical late B&S carburetor, the main jet metering is in the plug on the float bowl. Pull it off and look for a pair of holes between the threads and the bolt head. Run a torch tip cleaner through them, and check down the hole from the top.

I've had these plug up and not clear using solvents.
 

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Thank you. I did take the carb back apart last night for some more cleaning with can. I placed the plastic tube from the can into all the little ports. I put it all back together and it ran 50% better so it is definitely the carb. I also put a can of sea foam in it. Just a little more and she will be ready to go!
 

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I bought a gallon of GUNK carb cleaner with the screen pan inside. Took the carb apart and placed everything in the screen pan, dropped down in the solution for 3 hours. Pulled it out, re-assembled, and WAM! runs like a new one. This stuff really did the trick! I appreciate all the help guys!
 
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