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Tmac - that's good that you did not find any shorts in the wiring harness when you peeled the jacket back. You can check to see if any wires are shorted if you disconnect the harness from the ignition switch, the ignition coil and the solenoid and use an ohmmeter or continuity tester and connect one lead to the wire that connected to the solenoid and the other lead to the wire that connected to the ignition coil. If they are not shorted together, your wiring harness is probably good.

By chance did you check the ignition switch to see if in the RUN position it is it putting power on the terminal that connects to the solenoid? If you still want to make a new harness, I would check the ignition switch first just so you do not have the same issue after you make the new harness.

I found this diagram. Sorry the quality is not very good but maybe it will help. You should be able to use a continuity tester or ohmmeter to see which terminals connect to the BATTERY terminal with the key in RUN and in START.

Let us know what you find out.





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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Thanks Mike. I may dink around and test the old harness like you suggest, but essentially I’m moving on to making my own. Can’t trust the harness so it’s now an “extra” unless a new ign connector works some magic.
Need to get started on the fender pan cleanup, paint and deck decal. Need to get that done soon, before the Dog Days of August arrive. And I have some dwarf fescue to plant here and there out back.
 

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If the harness is not shorted, then my money is on the ignition switch and the way your harness connects to it. I’d check the ignition switch and see if it connects power to the solenoid at Run position. If so, use another ignition switch, even a used one, and see if it solves the issue.
You will solve this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
I favor the switch plug internally because I tested the switch and key across the blades/posts with a meter to check continuity in all switch positions. It passed...but who knows?
Had to drop the battery back in the 322, and got some mowing done...almost caught up. While I wait for the Stens plug/harness to show up I’m going to get busy on the 216 fender pan. May wind up needing another grill unless the old one straightens up a bit here and there.
 

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As long as you have the battery out of the tractor - If the harness wires are not shorted as you stated and if you don't want to wait for the new connector, and if you want to find out if the switch plug connector is at fault; carefully remove the spade terminals and wires out of the current connector and carefully plug each terminal onto the ignition switch terminals where they go. Just don't let the bare terminals touch each other. (You can wrap them with electrical tape before you plug them onto the switch if you want or you can replace the current terminals with insulated ones.) Hook up the battery and see if things work like they should. If it still works exactly the same, it's not the switch harness connector and you will need to figure out if the solenoid wire is on the wrong terminal of the ignition switch or if the ignition switch is not operating like you expect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
That’s a good idea...and easy to do since the harness is out too. May try that tomorrow. Was also considering putting a hot jumper wire to the Bat terminal on the switch and checking for power on the other terminals as I cycle the key in the switch.
 

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I'd take that hot wire and apply it to the harness terminal that's powers the coil.
See if it cranks also.
If it does crank, bad harness.
 

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No real deadlines. Just fake ones like the reality shows. When I retired I went from being bombarded 24/7/365 with calls and texts and emails to none at all. Happened just in time too. I was almost but not quite burned out. .

Actually, I'm guessing it is the other way around. with less pressure and fewer deadlines, I bet you actually get a lot more actually COMPLETED than before. Instead of rushing to put out fires, you are probably doing better and more complete worthwhile work and not just spinning your wheels doing a little on this project, moving to the next fire and doing a little on it to calm the flames, etc.
 
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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Cooler weather this holiday weekend, so I’m doing yard/property catch up chores...with little bits of time spent on the 216. Still need the 322 so the ign switch/harness tests are paused for now. Fiddled with the grill a little and after a few adjustments here and there with pliers it fits in its space up front without binding or rubbing. Cleaned it up and scuffed it with a pad and put a coat of Rustoleum flat black primer/paint on it...as well as the heads of the hood pillar bolts. Next I need to reinstall and adjust the PTO brake. And get the wire cup brush in the grinder and get about cleaning up the fender pan and seat springs/hardware. All this in between wrestling matches with the rowdy shop supervisor...who is sticking to me like glue and Velcro because of all the fireworks people are blasting. I bet the ER folks are busy bees this week...
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
No time today to mess with the electrics...got some property mowing done, cleaned one side of the ditch bank...maybe tomorrow I'll get to reopen the ditch with the 430 and back blade.
Meanwhile, I cleaned up the seat springs and hardware and gave them a light coat of black paint. Put the final coat of black on the grill, let it dry and installed it on the 216. Looks pretty good I think.
Got the fender pan up on my rickshaw painting bench, cleaned it off with the garden hose...let it dry and flipped it over so the under side is up. Hit a few pitted, rusty spots with the wire cup brush in the grinder, then wiped it down well and put on a coat of primer.
Took the rowdy shop supervisor down the woods trail for an hour and then hit the primered areas with JD green enamel from TSC. Should be dry enough to flip it over and work on the top side by tomorrow after lunch some time.
Meanwhile, here's how the grill turned out:

216grill.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Got the top side of the fender pan cleaned, prepped and primed, then applied the first coat of top coat green. Second coat tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Made some good progress on the 216 yesterday after work, despite the heat/humidity. Got the fender pan decal on, seat springs/hardware installed, taped off the front edges of the pan and dropped it on the tractor. Bolted the pan down, put the brake, deck height and shifter knobs on and put the shifter gate cover loosely in place.
Waiting on stuff needed to make a new wiring harness. Meanwhile I need to put the scuff guards on the fender pan, repaint the brake and clutch pedals and re-install, put the PTO brake back on, and put the new aftermarket seat on the springs. Also need to get the old cussed, rusty, frozen draft plate off. Have a new one to put on after I get that done. The deck you see behind the tractor in these pix is the next project...seems sound but you know how that goes.
216July7A.jpg


216July7B.jpg


216July7C.jpg
 

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Looking very nice so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Yes, I think so. Thanks Skwirl. Got the fender pan adhesive foot treads on today...looks even better now. Then I pushed it up on the shop apron and installed the clutch and brake pedals...freshly repainted and dry.
But now the fender pan needs to come back off...also discovered this morning that the deck height limiter adjustment rod is frozen...won't turn even with vise grips. And a new-to-me wrinkle, the brake pedal on the right side is locked in the up position...no down movement possible. Never checked the parking brake while I was dis-assembling it for paint and didn't notice anything askew with the linkage the whole time I had the fender pan off but then I wasn't checking either one. The parking brake lock knob moves like it should, but has no tension on it.
So it looks like the wiring harness adventure/solution will take a back seat to these two new hitches in my 216 plan...for awhile at least. The good thing is it's a little cooler today...
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Well, got the fender pan off again without scratching anything. Looking kind of grisly underneath...took the brake return spring off the right side linkage and pried on the brake mount arm. Got it to move a hair, so I soaked it in PB Blaster and put a crescent wrench on the brake pedal shaft and got it to move maybe an inch or so...looks like about half its total travel. Brake band locks the rear wheels/tires tight when the brake is engaged, but so little range of movement tells me I need to investigate the brake band...which is a BEAR with the rear-end bolted up to the tractor. That's another day's worry...
The deck height limiter bolt/shaft appears to be rusted tight. Got the top nut that snugs up against the knob off but the nut below it doesn't want to come off/up the shaft...just spins and spins. Looked at the parts catalog and it should be easy enough to replace once I get the old one off. Guess I could cut through the shaft below the nut, release the cotter pin holding the bar to the rockshaft and pull it out from underneath.
We'll see...an adventure for tomorrow.
Did make some very minor progress though...got the key/ignition switch out and installed the new Off/Run/Start decal that fits on the operator's pedestal surrounding the key/ignition switch. Sweet...sometimes I'm pretty clumsy with small decals.
 

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Well, got the fender pan off again without scratching anything. Looking kind of grisly underneath...took the brake return spring off the right side linkage and pried on the brake mount arm. Got it to move a hair, so I soaked it in PB Blaster and put a crescent wrench on the brake pedal shaft and got it to move maybe an inch or so...looks like about half its total travel. Brake band locks the rear wheels/tires tight when the brake is engaged, but so little range of movement tells me I need to investigate the brake band...which is a BEAR with the rear-end bolted up to the tractor. That's another day's worry...
The deck height limiter bolt/shaft appears to be rusted tight. Got the top nut that snugs up against the knob off but the nut below it doesn't want to come off/up the shaft...just spins and spins. Looked at the parts catalog and it should be easy enough to replace once I get the old one off. Guess I could cut through the shaft below the nut, release the cotter pin holding the bar to the rockshaft and pull it out from underneath.
We'll see...an adventure for tomorrow.
Did make some very minor progress though...got the key/ignition switch out and installed the new Off/Run/Start decal that fits on the operator's pedestal surrounding the key/ignition switch. Sweet...sometimes I'm pretty clumsy with small decals.

I had that brake problem on my 1982 214. You may need to heat that right brake pedal to get it loose. It is on a short stub shaft, and can rust solid. Hopefully there is a grease fitting on the frame where the shaft pivots. Heat first, then grease.

The deck height adjuster may need some heat as well. Heat, then candle wax just like you were trying to remove a broken off bolt.

These things worked for me. You may have a different experience.
 

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Hey.. that's looking pretty darn good Tmac! I like the type of refurbishment you're doing. Very nice work there.

Made some good progress on the 216 yesterday after work, despite the heat/humidity. Got the fender pan decal on, seat springs/hardware installed, taped off the front edges of the pan and dropped it on the tractor. Bolted the pan down, put the brake, deck height and shifter knobs on and put the shifter gate cover loosely in place.
Waiting on stuff needed to make a new wiring harness. Meanwhile I need to put the scuff guards on the fender pan, repaint the brake and clutch pedals and re-install, put the PTO brake back on, and put the new aftermarket seat on the springs. Also need to get the old cussed, rusty, frozen draft plate off. Have a new one to put on after I get that done. The deck you see behind the tractor in these pix is the next project...seems sound but you know how that goes.
View attachment 268190

View attachment 268191

View attachment 268193
 
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You may have a different experience.
I think it was Jet Joe who said a disclaimer like that should be included in every thread. I definitely agree. (y)
 
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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Well I hate band brakes, so I put the pedal back on, cleaned the zerk a little and hit it with some grease. Then I put the return spring back on and worked the snot out of it. Got the pedal moving freely through its entire range. May adjust the left side linkage later. Looks like the deck height limiter is toast though...gonna pull it and replace it...already sourced one.
Pulled the variator plugs out, primed and painted the new ones.
Then I adjusted the variator, and backed the pivot bolt out a bit and lubed it.
Then I gave it up and ran for the fan...more later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
The variator plugs came out well, they'll go back in tomorrow. Got out the 3/4 6-point socket, wratchet and cheater bar and wrestled the old rusty seat pan off the derelict 214's seat springs, and got the springs off, too. Oddly enough the front four-point handles that snug the springs to the pan came right off without breaking...figured the big slip pliers would tear them to bits. Also got the replacement deck height limiter ordered and on the way. If I can get this place mowed tomorrow I may get into making a new wiring harness later next week.
 
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