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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The inside lever of the two hydro levers...the one closest to the hood. Coated it's connection points real well wit PB Blaster...maybe it'll work loose. Outside lever moves freely and that's the deck lever, just like my 322...so all good for now.
 

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Those tires look like what I had on a 400 for a little while. They're on my golf cart now. They're 26x12-12 Carlisle Field Trax. Excellent all around tires. You'll like yours.
Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Automotive tire
 
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Those tires look like what I had on a 400 for a little while. They're on my golf cart now. They're 26x12-12 Carlisle Field Trax. Excellent all around tires. You'll like yours.
View attachment 270443
Army, what did you use to get that 400 so wide? I’d like to flip/put spacers on my 430
 

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I just bolted the wheels on in the wide position. All my mowing tractors are reversed like that. I do slopes along the road. It also seems to ride a bit better with the wheels wide.
 

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Those tires are gonna look killer on that 332 btw. Should be just right. Mount em wide and let em slide.
Tire Hood Automotive tire Tread Automotive lighting
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Actually, I put them on the 212 and had its old Firestone turfs mounted for the 332. They look good on the 212 though, too.
Some modest progress on the 332. Filled the radiator with premix coolant, bled the fuel system at the pump. Tried to crank but no fire, disturbed the PTO safety switch somehow...it's scotched together as a bypass...not on the terminals on the compound N safety switch. Cut off the scotch bypass and twisted the purple wires together. It cranked and chuffed white/gray exhaust out of the muffler, but wouldn't start. Bled the injectors twice and it kicked over and must be running on 1. Only runs about 500 rpm and shakes...doesn't answer the throttle, but does fire off pretty quick.
Managed to test the steering and hydro though...both work so that's a relief. PS and it scoots forward and back with the hydro dash lever.
Time to check the glow plugs I guess...but at least I know the hydro works...only minimal slop in the linkage.
Need to put the PTO wires back on the N switch and test the glow plug circuit and maybe check the thermostat...if it has one. Think it does because it didn't take the spec amount of premix coolant.
Any tips appreciated...thanks in advance.
 

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Actually, I put them on the 212 and had its old Firestone turfs mounted for the 332. They look good on the 212 though, too.
Some modest progress on the 332. Filled the radiator with premix coolant, bled the fuel system at the pump. Tried to crank but no fire, disturbed the PTO safety switch somehow...it's scotched together as a bypass...not on the terminals on the compound N safety switch. Cut off the scotch bypass and twisted the purple wires together. It cranked and chuffed white/gray exhaust out of the muffler, but wouldn't start. Bled the injectors twice and it kicked over and must be running on 1. Only runs about 500 rpm and shakes...doesn't answer the throttle, but does fire off pretty quick.
Managed to test the steering and hydro though...both work so that's a relief. PS and it scoots forward and back with the hydro dash lever.
Time to check the glow plugs I guess...but at least I know the hydro works...only minimal slop in the linkage.
Need to put the PTO wires back on the N switch and test the glow plug circuit and maybe check the thermostat...if it has one. Think it does because it didn't take the spec amount of premix coolant.
Any tips appreciated...thanks in advance.
Nice progress! Yes, it should have a thermostat. Hmm, if it’s puffing out white smoke, then coolant may be getting into the combustion chamber (bad head gasket). Just a thought, hopefully not. If you’ve got any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. Even though it’s not the same thing, the 430 is kinda similar.
 

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Those tires are gonna look killer on that 332 btw. Should be just right. Mount em wide and let em slide.
View attachment 270447
Army, I saw in your bio that you had a 420. If you flipped the back wheels on it, could you send me a picture of it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
It was chaffing grey/white exhaust before I bled the injectors. Now it's the color you'd expect, except it's running on one, maybe two cylinders...which is why I suspect the glow plug(s). Also don't get the glow plug circuit light on dash at first turn of the key.
 

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It was chaffing grey/white exhaust before I bled the injectors. Now it's the color you'd expect, except it's running on one, maybe two cylinders...which is why I suspect the glow plug(s). Also don't get the glow plug circuit light on dash at first turn of the key.
I’ve never seen anything on replacing the glow plugs. Is it a hard job? Good thing it’s not chugging white smoke now👍
 

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Unless the ambient temp is below 68*, the glow plugs arent doing anything. There only for cold weather, and have nothing to do with how it runs.
Put some Power Service additive in the fuel.
Run the engine, crack the nut loose on 1 injector. See if rpm drops a little. Yes, it should spray fuel out. Its roughly 1700 lbs of pressure. Do that for each injector.
It might just be air trapped in the pump. Or an injector may be sticking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Didn't get any air when I bled the filter, but did get some at all the injectors. When they were clear it popped over and ran on one cylinder...roughly. Cracked each injector while running. It only stumbled and died when I cracked the one closest to the battery. Haven't touched the fuel or lines yet. Gonna check the preheat circuit/module, then for power to glowplugs. I thought glowplugs functioned like sparkplugs...but good to know different. Will probably pull and inspect glowplugs just for grins...maybe replace too. Got to solve the wonky safety switch first...suspect the PTO switch/wiring.
Good to know the hydro and PS work though.
That's a big plus. Thanks for the info.
 

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Unless the ambient temp is below 68*, the glow plugs arent doing anything. There only for cold weather, and have nothing to do with how it runs.
Put some Power Service additive in the fuel.
Run the engine, crack the nut loose on 1 injector. See if rpm drops a little. Yes, it should spray fuel out. Its roughly 1700 lbs of pressure. Do that for each injector.
It might just be air trapped in the pump. Or an injector may be sticking.
I agree with Skwirl. I had (at least what I think) an injector stuck on my 430. Knocked and smoked horribly, and one time, it died (like I shut the key off). I think the injector literally flooded the combustion chamber. Put some Lucas injector cleaner in it (or what Skwirl said). I put a good bit in mine, and I haven’t had any problems since. Keep us posted on what you do, and good luck!
 

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Didn't get any air when I bled the filter, but did get some at all the injectors. When they were clear it popped over and ran on one cylinder...roughly. Cracked each injector while running. It only stumbled and died when I cracked the one closest to the battery. Haven't touched the fuel or lines yet. Gonna check the preheat circuit/module, then for power to glowplugs. I thought glowplugs functioned like sparkplugs...but good to know different. Will probably pull and inspect glowplugs just for grins...maybe replace too. Got to solve the wonky safety switch first...suspect the PTO switch/wiring.
Good to know the hydro and PS work though.
That's a big plus. Thanks for the info.
Yeah, the glow plugs are just for starting, then (if your GP relay is working properly) they shut off after 30 seconds of running. Might as well test it. Just hook up a DMM to one of the plugs and watch it through the start cycle, should be full battery voltage with the key on, and then (I think) the timer takes over. I assume that timer is dumb and doesn't care whether it started or not (but I could be wrong).

You should be able to check the GPs with your DMM set to ohms. I forget what the sepcs are, but it's pretty simple. Either they're good or not.
 

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Either they're good or not.
[/QUOTE]

Well kinda, lol.
The electrical stuff can all check out ok.
Theres still the tip of the plug. The part that gets hot. They can be broken, burnt off, stuff like that.
The best option is just replace them if their old.
 

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Well kinda, lol.
The electrical stuff can all check out ok.
Theres still the tip of the plug. The part that gets hot. They can be broken, burnt off, stuff like that.
The best option is just replace them if their old.
[/QUOTE]


Yeah, I should have said if they look alright. Although most of them I have replaced have looked fine, but failed the ohm test. (Volkswagens)

If you have 2 bad ones, I would replace all three. 2 of mine were bad, and the GP relay was staying on, killing the battery.

At least the VW's have a light that will tell you when something's amiss with the GP system.

I got an alternate set from a seller on Ebay, they aren't Deere (NGK), but they are very close to the spec. And significantly less expensive. Pretty reasonable for the set, IIRC.
 
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