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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Went out after dinner, looked and found the preheat/glowplug module...tucked up under rear of engine on left side. Looks pretty nasty. A little later I ordered a new module and three glowplugs online.
Still later I Googled JD 332 injectors and stumbled across two threads on this site by the PO. He had same running problem back in 08-09 and couldn't make it smooth out and run right consistently. It would smooth out and run good at fast but stumble back into running rough below half throttle. Did some reading which leads me to suspect injector pump. We'll see. A used pump off a 650 runs about $500+. New cost is over $1K. May have to price a rebuild and go from there. This is a just for fun project so want to keep a lid on total cost. First time I've ever stumbled across a thread or two from a PO about a current project.
 

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Went out after dinner, looked and found the preheat/glowplug module...tucked up under rear of engine on left side. Looks pretty nasty. A little later I ordered a new module and three glowplugs online.
Still later I Googled JD 332 injectors and stumbled across two threads on this site by the PO. He had same running problem back in 08-09 and couldn't make it smooth out and run right consistently. It would smooth out and run good at fast but stumble back into running rough below half throttle. Did some reading which leads me to suspect injector pump. We'll see. A used pump off a 650 runs about $500+. New cost is over $1K. May have to price a rebuild and go from there. This is a just for fun project so want to keep a lid on total cost. First time I've ever stumbled across a thread or two from a PO about a current project.
Dang, that stinks. Either way it’s gonna be a pricey project. Guess it matters how much you want to spend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Fuel lines aren't ancient and cracked, so little chance of air getting in fuel lines. Will bleed fuel system again starting at filter, then injector pump then injectors. Plus add some Power Service treatment to fuel tank. Today's chore is to fix the POs bypass of the PTO safety switch, then bleed fuel system again with longer bleed time. Plus figure out how to pull the injector pump just in case. In for a penny, in for a pound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
A little bit of measured progress on the 332 this morning. Discovered the PO didn't jumper the PTO terminals together on the compound N safety/PTO safety switch...he just scotched the wires together, literally with a scotch connector...squeeze and connect. Made/installed a short jumper on the switch terminals, for now, and it cranks whenever I turn the key...also fixed his scotch connection with a better temporary bypass.
Found some Peak Blue diesel treatment in the shop...thought I was out. Put a liberal dose in the fuel tank, dropped a battery in, tied it down, and connected the terminals. Re-bled the fuel system starting at the filter...with longer 20 sec. bleed time. No air at filter, no air at injector pump fitting (which I didn't bleed before...amazing what you learn if you actually read the SM). Also bled the injector lines/fittings at the engine with longer bleed time. Got a little air out of the injector closest to the radiator, then cleared out. This cylinder must be firing now because it runs a little smoother and will die when I open that injector fitting with engine running; had no effect before. Injector/fitting closest to battery is clear and also kills the engine if opened while running. Middle injector/fitting has no air at 1/4 turn open, but no effect on engine running...and oddly enough it bubbles air at the fitting if you open past 1/4 turn...also never clears out either as you close/tighten the fitting. Maybe this tells me that injector fitting on the injector pump is sucking air somehow...maybe needs a new O-ring. Let me know if I'm off base with that idea.
Let it keep running on 2 until the Temp light on the dash came on...now I know the temp sensor is working. Shut it down to let it cool off before I drain the radiator a little and investigate/test the thermostat.
Didn't have time to pull the glowplug heater circuit module and check it out, or check for voltage at the plug connectors with the key ON.
Last thing I discovered is it will need a new key switch. When I turned the key Off, it kept running on...like it was dieseling. Turned the key On and Off again and it shut off.
Time to call around and see if anyone around here rebuilds the little Yanmar injector pumps, and price, and check the price of O-rings for the injector pump fuel line fittings.
Unfortunately, work will occupy most of today...got to work out in the field at a distance yesterday, a nice change from the home telecommuting option I picked not long ago. Was exposed to the Wuhan flu three times in that many weeks after they called us back in to the office...no ill effect though.
 

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Tmac,

One more thing to look at that might have caused it to 'run on' the first time that you switched off the key but then shut off normally after you cycled the key is the fuel shutoff solenoid. If it is sticking in the retracted position it might have caused that first sustained run-on...but got freed up with another power cycle. Most of the solenoids are dual coil, with one winding pulsed on for a few seconds at first turn of the key and the other lower strength winding remaining powered to "hold in" the plunger as long as the key is on. It could still be the key switch acting up in your case of course, but another item to check.

The fuel shutoff solenoid is the only thing that can stop your 332 diesel engine on demand, so it has to work correctly to be able to turn off the engine with the key switch.

Chuck
 

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The injection lines on the pump connect to what jd calls a delivery nozzle. There is an oring under them. I had 1 that leaked fuel, there like 2 bucks each. If it's not leaking fuel there, I'd leave it be, for now.
I'd get the cooling system working first. The reason I say that is, I'd run it more with additive in the fuel. It sounds like an injector or pump is sticky.
A little water in the fuel can cause rust on those parts. It might clear out after some run time.

A rebuilt pump will probably be 5 - 800 $.
Replacing it doesnt sound to difficult, I've only read about so far.
 
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Thanks for the added info guys. Another wrinkle, pulled the glow plug module out a little while ago...but only the plastic cover/shield came out. So it's apparently stuck in the connector attached to the frame...probably explains why the circuit and dash light aren't working. We'll see.
 

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Thanks for the added info guys. Another wrinkle, pulled the glow plug module out a little while ago...but only the plastic cover/shield came out. So it's apparently stuck in the connector attached to the frame...probably explains why the circuit and dash light aren't working. We'll see.
Nice work. I agree with Skwirl, in that it could be a seized/stuck injector/pump. The PO could’ve ran it out of fuel, doing damage to the pump, as they’re lubricated by the diesel (at least, that’s what I saw on other forum posts)
 

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In my short history with 332's, I have found that the cooling system is usually the most neglected system. Make sure to use the block drain as well as the radiator drain when flushing the system. Additionally, there is a fine line between using a cooling system cleaner (to get the crud out) and starting the radiator core to leak. FYI - Not getting the cooling system clean (if it is neglected) will usually result in an over heat condition if you start pushing the ol girl in 90 +F ambients. Using a cooling system cleaner to clean a neglected cooling system will usually expose radiator leaks near the lower core to tank area. I had to have mine re-cored, which isn't cheap, but was substantially less than a new one from Deere.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Need to drain the radiator a little, down below the top hose inlet...then pull the hose and check/inspect/test the thermostat. I'm thinking it has one installed because it didn't take the spec amount of premix coolant when I filled the radiator. Radiator looked clean inside, but do plan to do a block flush after I sort out the thermostat...lots of crusty white stuff around the hose and thermostat housing...thankfully the little Yanmars are very service friendly IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Well just before dinner I went out and added a little bit of SeaFoam and MMO to the fuel tank, to aid/abet the Peak Blue diesel injector/cetane booster treatment.
Got curious about the thermostat, too. Since it was cool by then, I checked the radiator and removed the upper hose at the thermostat...which looked pretty clean from that angle. Broke one housing bolt head off, but got the other one out intact. Luckily, there was enough of a stub on the broken bolt for me to work it out slowly with a visegrips...as Grandpap Floyd used to say, "Well fellahs, I am one lucky bastige today!"
The coolant in the block appears to be clean, green coolant...undiluted. The underside of the thermostat was completely gunked closed with some gelatinous white/grey/green mucus-like garbage. Someone must have used a bunch of stop leak or some mystery juice in this engine somewhere back in time. Got everything cleaned up and have a thermostat/gasket on order for delivery. So now I have another 332 adventure underway. Need to drain the block at the lower petcock, flush the block liberally with a flushing product, install new thermostat and gasket, and pull the bottom hose off the radiator so I can really flush it well. Getting to the bottom radiator hose will be lots of fun, tucked in under the pedestal frame. Will have to remove the trans oil fill tube/hose to get access to that clamp and hose.
Oh well, we're having fun by now, right?
Tomorrow its off to the hardware store for two new thermostat housing bolts. Anyone know the size/thread pitch of these offhand? The heads took at 10mm socket snugly.
Meanwhile I have a line on a used set of injector pump fuel lines and maybe a used pump, too.
 

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Well just before dinner I went out and added a little bit of SeaFoam and MMO to the fuel tank, to aid/abet the Peak Blue diesel injector/cetane booster treatment.
Got curious about the thermostat, too. Since it was cool by then, I checked the radiator and removed the upper hose at the thermostat...which looked pretty clean from that angle. Broke one housing bolt head off, but got the other one out intact. Luckily, there was enough of a stub on the broken bolt for me to work it out slowly with a visegrips...as Grandpap Floyd used to say, "Well fellahs, I am one lucky bastige today!"
The coolant in the block appears to be clean, green coolant...undiluted. The underside of the thermostat was completely gunked closed with some gelatinous white/grey/green mucus-like garbage. Someone must have used a bunch of stop leak or some mystery juice in this engine somewhere back in time. Got everything cleaned up and have a thermostat/gasket on order for delivery. So now I have another 332 adventure underway. Need to drain the block at the lower petcock, flush the block liberally with a flushing product, install new thermostat and gasket, and pull the bottom hose off the radiator so I can really flush it well. Getting to the bottom radiator hose will be lots of fun, tucked in under the pedestal frame. Will have to remove the trans oil fill tube/hose to get access to that clamp and hose.
Oh well, we're having fun by now, right?
Tomorrow its off to the hardware store for two new thermostat housing bolts. Anyone know the size/thread pitch of these offhand? The heads took at 10mm socket snugly.
Meanwhile I have a line on a used set of injector pump fuel lines and maybe a used pump, too.
Making progress. I just replaced the stat on my 430. I can’t remember the thread count though, sorry. Here’s a picture of the old stat
Gas Nickel Cylinder Auto part Household hardware
 

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Those bolts are probably 6mm × 1.0 pitch.
You may want to get a new lower hose. Theres a spring in there that rusts away.
 

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For what it is worth, a couple of comments:
1. The glow plugs can be tested without removing them using a DVM (set to ohms) and a good ground. As I recall, CTM3 indicates they should be 1 ohm (but don't hold me to that).
2. Be careful when you are cracking the injection lines.
First, although only ~1700 psi, don't get your fingers, etc, near the fuel coming out. High pressure entering your skin will result in bad things happening to you...quickly.
Second, crack the fuel lines at the injector. If you want to crack the fuel lines at the injection pump, use two wrenches. One to hold the delivery valve, one to loosen the fuel injection line. If while loosening the fuel line at the injection pump you end up moving the delivery valve nut, you can be SOL pretty quickly.
3. An easy test for the dash lights is to:
  • With no one in the seat (assuming the seat switch is working), move PTO switch to ON
  • Position or hold hydrostatic lever to the right away from N/STOP switch.
-Turn key switch to START position.
The engine should not crank, but dash lamps should light.
-If the dash lights don't come on, check the fuses. (I bought a 332 because the PO thought the Fuel Shut Off and Glow Plug modules were bad when all it took was a new 10 amp fuse.)

If you don't have the tractor TM or engine CTM, let me know. I have both electronic copies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Thanks for the info guys. Next up, since I'm waiting for parts, is to drain and flush the radiator and engine block...then replace the hose if I can get one locally. Also need to pull the glow plug module off the frame and get it out of the way, pull the old module/relay and clean the connector with contact cleaner. I'm pretty sure I need to cover it and tuck it away while I'm rehabbing the coolant system or it will get drenched.
I do have the JD TM and the Yanmar engine manual on file digitally, since I also run a 430 and 322 in my herd.
I intend to replace the glow plugs just as an item of routine update maintenance. The threads I found from the PO were dated 2008 and 2009...so it sat for a long while before he sold it on.
Hope some clean fuel with additives will help the dead center cylinder situation, but we'll see. There are some good threads on MTF about servicing the guts on the injector pump under the fuel delivery lines. Seems the common wear items are rubber O rings and copper/bronze crush washers. From the looks of things it will be a week or more before I can restart the tractor and cycle fresh fuel through it, and maybe longer until I can get into the dead cylinder situation. Lots of other little updates to do before then.
At least I now know that the hydro and PS systems are good when given fresh fluid...it will move on its own with the engine running and the PS is good and responsive.
 

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High pressure entering your skin will result in bad things happening to you...quickly
Yeah, Google image search: “hydraulic injection injury” for some nightmare fuel. Amazes me these little mechanical pumps can build that much pressure.

I had a problem with air entrainment via the fuel filter housing. The bleed screws weren’t sealing and it would run for about 30mins before the problem arose each time, so I figured it was a cooling issue. I only figured it out by putting clear fuel line between the filter and the injector pump. I could see the bubbles, that weren’t supposed to be there. The filter housing is cheap, and I’d advise replacing it just in case. Also replace the fuel line pick up hose in the tank. Pretty common issue to suck air when the in-tank pick up hose is cracked and the fuel level gets below the crack. Use a diesel safe hose, I think I used Tygon when I did mine.

How’s Norte Tejas? We’ve been starting to cool down here in the Indian Nations, but still a month of mowing left though. Then it’ll be leaf collection time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
It's been cooler lately, highs in the high 80s or low 90s and some breeze with it. Need a rain though. Bought my wintergrass seed the other day, but won't get to sow that until after leaf drop...anywhere from late October through December. Last year the leaves stayed on the trees until just before Christmas. Need to make time on my project list to get the Cyclone Rake power unit ready to go again.
Almost forgot to ask...where are you at in the Nations? Some of my family used to farm/reside around Reydon (near Cheyenne), Elk City, and Sayre. One of my great-grandpaps was a territorial marshall out that way...tough old bird who didn't transition to cars very well. He took out a couple of gas pumps before they managed to get his keys away from him.
 

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Almost forgot to ask...where are you at in the Nations?
Okie from Muskogee here. We used to not smoke marijuana in Muskogee, but Ol Merle wouldn’t recognize it now…there’s dispensaries everywhere. Well hopefully you won’t take out any diesel pumps with that 332, following in great-grandpa’s tracks haha! Great story btw!
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Yeah, ol Harrison was quite a guy...one of a kind, of the pioneer generation. Nice town Muskogee.
Made some more measured progress today. Pried the old glow plug/preheat module out of the harness connector which bolts to a cross panel under and behind the engine. Had to get the old module out to remove the connector anchor bolt (8mm head and nut) and get the connector out and down to clean it. Lots of contortions, cussing and grease/grime eating. Got the connector clean, plugged in the new module, turned the key and the dash light works so the preheat circuit is probably good. Will have to check for voltage at the glowplugs tomorrow. Then I wrapped the connector in plastic to protect it from coolant when I pull the lower radiator hose to drain/flush the radiator. That requires pulling the left dash/operator's panel to access that hose. That lower hose goes up to connect to one side of the water pump housing...on same level as lower side of the top radiator hose. Not a good design IMO...no way to drain engine block except for a small petcock.
Tomorrow I'll get after the lower hose, drain radiator and flush, then repeat on the engine block. Should have thermostat by Saturday so I can wrap up the cooling system, install and anchor the GP module and run it awhile to check cooling and cycle fresh, treated fuel through the injector pump. May also get the GPs replaced if the mailman delivers the new ones. I'll try to get/post some pix as I go along.
 

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