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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Based on a couple of pump threads with pix that I've seen the pump is pretty simple inside, but finicky when dirty and obviously wonky if pieces are wrong/missing. Plan to look inside, set engine to TDC on No. 1 and take it and injectors to a shop for inspection...then go from there. This machine was rode hard, messed with, rode harder and finally pushed aside. Still has potential though. Only dead component so far is PTO clutch, which hasn't been pulled and tested yet. Might be a good back-from-dead project yet if engine tests okay.
 

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Good thread, fun reading and informative! One of my first cars was a vw rabbit diesel. The tank vent plugged up and strained, burnt out injector pump. I noticed mad suction trying to pull the gas cap off. Anyway I replaced injector pump but didn’t time it, off course I was a kid and had no idea what I was doing and of course I was a tooth or two off and it ran horribly. Got schooled on that one, lol!
Anyway great job so far! Look forward to reading the post where your rolling coal! I’m going through similar work with a overheating, undercharging 332 but that’s for a different thread. Carry on 👍🏻💪
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
More reading this morning...about timing port cover and marks on the engine, and about checking injection pump timing. Hopefully the pump is clean inside and just missing some parts...as the PO's last thread on WFM would indicate. Later today I'll go looking for timing marks on the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Funny thing how feeding your brain makes your curiosity more itchy. Removed the timing port/mark cover, put a 5/8ths socket on crank nut, turned it to and fro and found 1-2-3 timing marks spaced around the flywheel...TDC for each cylinder. Plus three other marks, each a little before a number when rotating flywheel CCW. These denote when the pump stops delivering fuel to each cylinder...at which point the pump delivery valve opens and the injector fires...I think.
Also found basic injection pump timing section in CTM3...1-146...outlining how to check pump operation/synch with timing marks on flywheel.
Now I'm really itchy for parts to arrive on Tuesday so I can see how it's operating. Should still be "in time" unless PO messed with it.
 

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Your doing better than some mechanics I've seen. I to enjoy the learning, just wish I got paid better for it. Ehhh, to far off base.
I bet you'll have it running as smooth as a babies butt, lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Okay, some good news...the little Yanmar passes a compression test. Had to go to the office today for meetings, etc., and noticed my Wuhan diesel compression tester/kit was on the mail truck via USPS shipping update. A day early...sweet.
Got home and pulled the battery out of the 322, dropped it in the 332 and strapped it down. Fired it off and let it run to warm up a bit...loping and smoking. Shut it off, unplugged the fuel shutoff solenoid, pulled the air cleaner off, removed the valve cover and pulled the glow plugs. Then found the right size fitting in the kit and went one at a time through the test. Min recommended compression according to the SM is 355. No. 1 maxed out at 400, and Nos. 2 & 3 went to 420. So it has decent compression, relatively speaking.
Took a little longer for No. 1 to get there because that is the cylinder that is not firing correctly, so it wasn't as warm as the other two. I hope...otherwise that means poor compression in No. 1.
Odd thing...after I ran the test and buttoned it all back up I fired it over and it kicked over and actually ran smoothly for about 2 seconds before reverting to the rough, uneven lope. Curious business.
The federal employee is supposed to bring my pump delivery valve springs, compression washers and O-rings tomorrow...fingers crossed. Plan to jack the left side of the tractor up a bit until the fuel injection pump sits nice and vertical...so it will be easier to check under the delivery valve fittings without small bits taking a dive for the dirt. Need to dig up some tygon tubing to use as a fuel metering/shutoff/timing tool instead of sacrificing the No. 1 cylinder metal fuel line...CTM3 says to cut that line off just past the first bend and reinstall so it becomes a visual aid when you are checking the timing of the pump against the flywheel marks.
Had a brief moment of clarity too while I was warming up the engine a little...remembered to check the deck lift hydraulics with the hydro lever and it works like it should...poorly, because it's running/loping...but the lift straps did cycle up and down with a little help.
More tomorrow...if we don't catch a rain. I can always get it running badly and move it up onto the shop apron out of the weather if I need to since the hydro and PS are working.
More later and I'll make a point to shoot/post some pix of what I find in tomorrow's exploratory look into the fuel injection pump.
 

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Okay, some good news...the little Yanmar passes a compression test. Had to go to the office today for meetings, etc., and noticed my Wuhan diesel compression tester/kit was on the mail truck via USPS shipping update. A day early...sweet.
Got home and pulled the battery out of the 322, dropped it in the 332 and strapped it down. Fired it off and let it run to warm up a bit...loping and smoking. Shut it off, unplugged the fuel shutoff solenoid, pulled the air cleaner off, removed the valve cover and pulled the glow plugs. Then found the right size fitting in the kit and went one at a time through the test. Min recommended compression according to the SM is 355. No. 1 maxed out at 400, and Nos. 2 & 3 went to 420. So it has decent compression, relatively speaking.
Took a little longer for No. 1 to get there because that is the cylinder that is not firing correctly, so it wasn't as warm as the other two. I hope...otherwise that means poor compression in No. 1.
Odd thing...after I ran the test and buttoned it all back up I fired it over and it kicked over and actually ran smoothly for about 2 seconds before reverting to the rough, uneven lope. Curious business.
The federal employee is supposed to bring my pump delivery valve springs, compression washers and O-rings tomorrow...fingers crossed. Plan to jack the left side of the tractor up a bit until the fuel injection pump sits nice and vertical...so it will be easier to check under the delivery valve fittings without small bits taking a dive for the dirt. Need to dig up some tygon tubing to use as a fuel metering/shutoff/timing tool instead of sacrificing the No. 1 cylinder metal fuel line...CTM3 says to cut that line off just past the first bend and reinstall so it becomes a visual aid when you are checking the timing of the pump against the flywheel marks.
Had a brief moment of clarity too while I was warming up the engine a little...remembered to check the deck lift hydraulics with the hydro lever and it works like it should...poorly, because it's running/loping...but the lift straps did cycle up and down with a little help.
More tomorrow...if we don't catch a rain. I can always get it running badly and move it up onto the shop apron out of the weather if I need to since the hydro and PS are working.
More later and I'll make a point to shoot/post some pix of what I find in tomorrow's exploratory look into the fuel injection pump.
Good progress today! Hopefully there isn’t anything too wrong with the pump. And hopefully No.1 cylinder isn’t screwed up inside. Keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Crap day at work and the big brown truck was delayed, so no parts. Threatening rain tonight so after I experimented with jack placement on the left frame I fired it up and moved it on to the concrete shop apron, let it cool down and covered it. Gathered tools in case parts show up tomorrow. Today it ran somewhat smoother at Fast than at Idle...less loping. More later...
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Still waiting on the big brown truck and parts. Got bored this morning, fired it up and pulled it up into the shop under cover of the roof. Jacked up the left side as far as my little hydraulic jack will go and put jackstands on either side of the jack just in case. Pulled the fuel lines off the injectors and top of the injection pump...started on No. 3 (closest to radiator) and removed the fuel delivery valve fittings one at a time...this takes a 17mm wrench. No. 3 was on pretty tight, SM calls for 31 ft/lbs of torque, but No. 2 (middle) and No. 1 (front) took less effort so I'm guessing someone's been in the pump before (maybe someone other than PO). Everything looked normal under No. 3 fuel delivery valve fitting, but noticed a slight difference under No. 2 FD valve fitting...No. 1 FD valve fitting matched what was under No. 3.
Parts diagram attached.
Font Parallel Slope Rectangle Pattern

As you can see part 27, the delivery gasket, is supposed to sit on top of 22, delivery valve with seat. But on No. 2, the delivery gasket was placed under 22...which may explain why this cylinder was not firing when the engine was running. Part 4, plunger with barrel, fits snug against the bottom of 22...so that the plunger can contact the little plunger above it in 22. With 27 under 22, the plungers may not have been making contact...so the pump delivers fuel, but not in time with the engine. Hoping that's the case, but we'll see after I replace the O-ring (28), spring (25), and delivery gasket (27) for each cylinder/delivery valve.
The delivery gaskets look used on this pump, and the O-rings are toasty so maybe not sealing correctly, and the little springs are there...No. 3 spring is shiny, No. 2 and 1 springs are black...fuel fouling maybe?
No. 31 in this diagram connects to the governor, so if it is dirty then pump/engine responds poorly. Haven't pulled the pump itself so can't tell if anyone has changed/moved that rack/governor connection but the throttle cable moves freely and smoothly, so maybe not. Hope this means the rack itself is moving freely, too. No witness marks on the pump body to indicate that the pump, fuel shutoff solenoid or governor access plate have ever been removed...so maybe it's all still stock in those areas.
If new parts correctly installed for each fuel delivery valve doesn't fix the loping and missing on one cylinder, it's time to pull the pump and injectors and take them to a diesel shop for inspection.
Maybe some results to report later today if the big brown truck shows up before sundown.
 

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Good find, maybe that’s all that’s wrong with it.🤞
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Well, no love in the pump with some new parts in place. Installed new O-rings, springs and delivery gaskets in all fuel delivery valves. Buttoned it back up, charged the battery for a few minutes by running it in the nearby 322, put the battery back in the 332...bled the line at the fuel filter, then the fuel injection pump, and all three fuel lines at the injectors. Fired up and still runs rough...hitting on two I think. Odd thing is it is now not firing on No. 3 cylinder...closest to radiator. And when I bleed that fuel line, it spits air bubbles that never bleed out. So the problem has moved from the center cylinder, to the front cylinder and now to the back cylinder. Something is amiss in the pump...so a trip to the diesel injection shop with pump and injectors in hand is in the cards. Oh well, so much for simple fix optimism.
 

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Man, before you tear it apart I’d run a piece of clear vinyl from the fuel filter to the injector pump. So you can see if the air is infiltrating before the IP, or internal to the IP.
 

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I agree with Kris, definitely could be something amiss between the filter and pump. Go with the cheap option first!
 
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Mine was ingesting air somewhere on the filter housing…but it wasn’t instant after starting. It would be about 30 minutes into a mow, so I thought it was overheating, even though the coolant temp wasn’t high when it went to sputtering. I knew the ect sensor was good because I’d got her hot enough to turn on the idiot light before (due to not cleaning my radiator of grass/dandelions/cottonwood tufts). I didn’t know much about diesels - not that I’m an expert now - but who knew they would act like such babies from just a little air in the fuel line? Somebody on here suggested the clear hose and bam! That was it. New filter house fixed it. Only after I’d had the rad rodded, new ect sensor, rad hoses, block flush, etc - but it’s money well spent and I’m all for buy once/cry once so I try to maintain everything I have.

Working on these old doves is a lost art. I have no doubt you’ll get it sorted, and learn a bunch of helpful stuff along the way. 👍🏼
 

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The common issue with the filter housing is the pressed in hose connectors. They get loose from the vibration and allow air in. I read of 1 member using jb weld to fix it.
Definitely worth looking at. The filter housing is much less than the pump.
 
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issue with the filter housing is the pressed in hose connectors.

Yeah, I think that’s where it was infiltrating. The filter house was like 40$ so I didn’t even try epoxy or JB weld. But could be a cheap fix till it got replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Gonna check fitting on pump for fuel line, then work my way back along the line from there. Can't see anywhere else the pump could be sucking air, filter and housing look stock so it's an old campaigner.
I can tell the PO replaced fuel line from tank, and return lines too...but that was in 08/09 based on his former posts here. May get into tank lines/grommets too.
Noticed this morning that the fiberglass tower on front inside of hood, left side, has busted loose...looks like someone either glassed or epoxied it back in place...probably why the hood sits wonky. So hood repair is on list now too.
Update after I check for air in the lines...
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Okay, short update...pulled fuel line at injection pump, put end into jar and turned the key on...good strong flow through the filter with no air bubbles. Pulled the actual injector pump fitting off, inspected it...found nothing wonky so reinstalled it. Pulled the 5/16ths fuel line off between filter and injection pump and put on a piece of clear tubing, not the right size but was able to clamp it down tightly at the fittings...turned the key on and big air bubble in center/top of that line. Fired it over and let it run to see if the injection pump would suck up the bubble, but no dice. Pulled that clear line and put on a smaller diameter clear line that I found in the shop, off of a differential/rear end fill pump. Had to work that line to get it over the fittings, turned the key on and no bubbles in the line. Fired it up and no bubbles. Cracked the No. 3 fuel line fitting at the injector and got copious air bubbles and no change in rough running. Noticed the top of the filter was seeping a little fuel, so I bled the filter and checked the line fittings. No change, no tube bubbles but air in No. 3 injector line and fuel seeping from top of filter. Ordered a new aftermarket filter assembly for about $35...now waiting for parts again. More later.
 

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Okay, short update...pulled fuel line at injection pump, put end into jar and turned the key on...good strong flow through the filter with no air bubbles. Pulled the actual injector pump fitting off, inspected it...found nothing wonky so reinstalled it. Pulled the 5/16ths fuel line off between filter and injection pump and put on a piece of clear tubing, not the right size but was able to clamp it down tightly at the fittings...turned the key on and big air bubble in center/top of that line. Fired it over and let it run to see if the injection pump would suck up the bubble, but no dice. Pulled that clear line and put on a smaller diameter clear line that I found in the shop, off of a differential/rear end fill pump. Had to work that line to get it over the fittings, turned the key on and no bubbles in the line. Fired it up and no bubbles. Cracked the No. 3 fuel line fitting at the injector and got copious air bubbles and no change in rough running. Noticed the top of the filter was seeping a little fuel, so I bled the filter and checked the line fittings. No change, no tube bubbles but air in No. 3 injector line and fuel seeping from top of filter. Ordered a new aftermarket filter assembly for about $35...now waiting for parts again. More later.
Dang, that stinks it wasn’t something as easy as a new fuel line. Guessing it’s something wrong with the pump internals now
 
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