Maybe put the new housing on, then run it some more. It can take a few minutes of running to get all the air out. With no load on the motor, it not using much fuel at all.
Thanks for the info...so each shim at .005 thickness is 1 degree of timing change (+ or -) and you added .023 or 5 shims? to get to 13 BTDC...if I read your post correctly, and if my mind is doing okay at math tonight (not always my strong suit).Good luck! I've got my fingers crossed for you
EDIT: One more thing. The injection pump timing...in the book, it reads kinda weird. Translation from Japanese to English is a little wonky (actual words from Yanmar guy I talked to). For every 0.1" away from the timing mark, it is 1*. So for example, mine was 0.5" away from the injection timing mark (past it), so it was 8* before top dead center, instead of 13*. I ended up needing 0.025" worth of shims to get ~13* with my new pump. It had 0.02" when it started.
Good to know for future reference, thanks. Price at my dealer is about $12 right now.The part number you listed is the right one. And yeah, it's 5 shims in the kit. Since the engine is made in Japan, it's actually metric. Two 0.2mm, two 0.3mm, and one 0.5mm shim in the kit. Both metric and SAE measurements are given in the book. Metric is way easier because the numbers tend to be nicer.
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I'll look at that if I ever get the derelict capable of WOT. Thanks.I am going through my 332 charging/overheating problem now. It started with my fan belt stretching to the maximum amount of adjustment and a 6 month old belt replacement. As I was changing the belt I saw a mark on the driveshaft isolator, wasn’t overly concerned but investigated. What I found was a cracked isolator the eventuality would have failed. Anyone who has an original should check it out as nobody want this to come apart at wot.
It’s fun work and whenyour done your going to have a sweet tractor! 👍🏻👍🏻 View attachment 271145 View attachment 271146
One at a time sir, one at a time. Otherwise my GT rescue yard would be overflowing. Nice looking machine though.Only about 2 grand to you in US currency Tmac. Bit of a drive though..
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Located 10 minutes north of cobourg, 3 cyl diesel with 2 remotes and hydraulic steering, hydrostatic and is tight.comes with a solid 50” deck ready to go. If your looking for a real mower somthing that will last you forever this is it. 3100 obo John Deere Lawn tractor Lawnmower Dieselwww.kijiji.ca
Great explanation, it got bookmarked and I think iam going to copy and paste it with the 332 info I have.Sorry, after re reading that, it wasn't as clear as I thouht...
Each 0.1" of measurement along the circumference of the flywheel is 1 degree. So if you check your timing on the flywheel mark vs the line in the casting at the sight hole...for every tenth of an inch apart, it is 1 degree of crank rotation different. This is all to give you a frame of reference. Your end goal is to align the 13* BTDC mark with the line on the casting.
The shim thickness doesn't correlate to that. The manual wants you to start with 0.020" thickness as a starting point, check your timing, and adjust the shin thickness to get to 13* (aligned to the mark).
The kit comes with a handful of different size shims so you can mix and match to get it right. I paid I think $6 for the kit at my Deere dealer back in July.
What I did was start with 0.020" shims per the book (2x 0.010" shims). When I checked my timing, it was 15* BTDC. I then put 0.040" shims to see where that would set it (1x 0.020" + 2x 0.010" = 0.040"). It was then only 5* BTDC. So I took it back apart again and tried 0.025" (1x 0.020 + 0.005" = 0.025"). This time when I checked timing it was really close to 13* BTDC like it's supposed to be, so I left it there.
Hope that's slightly more clear (?). Maybe read during the day lol. Please someone correct me if I goobered something, but I am confident I said that right.
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