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Maybe put the new housing on, then run it some more. It can take a few minutes of running to get all the air out. With no load on the motor, it not using much fuel at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
I'll report back after I get the new filter/housing installed. Also gonna take a look at the electric fuel pump on this little tractor. When I pulled the fuel line off the injection pump fitting yesterday, put the line in a jar and turned the key on, the pump filled the jar much faster than I suspected it would. Wonder what the fuel delivery rating is? Don't know how that would affect the injection pump though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 · (Edited)
Catching some rain today, so I didn't get a chance to take a good look at the electric fuel pump...kinda looks like a Facet cube pump but who knows. I did manage to get a $4 replacement hose for the old dry/brittle/useless crankcase/valve cover vent hose...from Napa, so a little progress today. And got another good word on the diesel shop I'm considering for the pump/injector check...which also has a shop next door. If I get another good offhand review, I may just grab a TSC trailer and haul the entire little beasty down there and drop it off...rather than pulling the pump and injectors and taking them in. Looks like the new fuel filter is trying to get off the shipping launch pad out in Krazyfornia.
 

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I wish I had been keeping up on this one, very interesting stuff. I've had all of the stuff you mention appart in the last 6 months chasing my overheat problem.

Good to know you've got solid compression. The lift pump pressure and flow rate min specs are 7oz in 30s, at 3psi.

On the topic of timing the injection pump (or at least checking it), I didn't sacrifice an injection line or get any tubing, ect... I just installed the line onto the pump, but clocked facing away from the engine, and let it dump into a catch can. Worked just fine. It is listed in the book that the #1 cylinder is the flywheel side (nearest the battery). I'm interested to know if when you run the test per the book, if the fuel flow "completely stops" as it states. Mine did not, went down to a very slow drip. Injection shop told me that can be normal.

My local injection shop charges like $30 per injector to check them out, or $94 to rebuild. I'd rather have someone rebuild mine then buy a 35 year old "new" one for $125. Been burned twice on that... The shop I believe charged something like $100 to test my injection pump (waived all check fees when rebuilding my stuff). They said they could rebuild my pump for $950, or sell me one they had on the shelf ready to go for $795. They're also a Yanmar certified shop, so they can get anything, and said a new pump would be $1200.

Good luck! I've got my fingers crossed for you :)

EDIT: One more thing. The injection pump timing...in the book, it reads kinda weird. Translation from Japanese to English is a little wonky (actual words from Yanmar guy I talked to). For every 0.1" away from the timing mark, it is 1*. So for example, mine was 0.5" away from the injection timing mark (past it), so it was 8* before top dead center, instead of 13*. I ended up needing 0.025" worth of shims to get ~13* with my new pump. It had 0.02" when it started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
Are those shims the ones under the four bolts that hold the pump in place, or are they part of the "shim pack" deeper inside the pump. CTM3 doesn't specify that...just shows a pix with shims under the four bolts.
I'm going to put a new filter on and if it still runs on only 2 cylinders, I probably will just haul the tractor to the injector shop and let them assess the problem. Those injectors are so simple I wonder what "rebuild" really means...not much there to work with.
 

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The shims are under the 4 studs the pump sits on. The injector "rebuild" consists of shimming, and/or replacing the tip. Not sure where one would buy that stuff, bit it is certainly doable. Friend of mine just bought an injector nozzle tester so he can do it himself on an old 6.5L IDI Suburban. Good spray pattern, injection pressure,no leakage or chatter is what they look for. It's not entirely difficult. There's probably a rebuild kit one can buy from the injection shop. Haven't checked yet.

Inside the pump is similar with shims, and adjustments and stuff they can replace. But the test setup for the pump is more complex, and not likely something an end user has access to (usually).

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Hoping the injection pump is getting air from the filter-to-pump line, don't know where else it could injest air. Odd thing is the air bubbles at the injector line fitting moves around. First it was on center injector line, then on front injector line, now it's on the rear injector line...odd. I think the pump timing is right or it wouldn't consistently run on two cylinders...whichever two aren't getting air at injector lines. Can't see how it would pull in air at the pump fuel inlet fitting if it's good and snug, and it is. If it's not pulling air from the filter that pretty much leaves the mating surface where the pump bolts down. Don't see a gasket there though in any of the schematics...it's a head scratcher.
Need to pull hood and look at the front towers where the hinge rods bolt down. Left tower has come off, like it was repaired/glassed back down once before. Right tower is working it's way off. Wonder if someone adapted an older model hood to fit...need to check headlight lens to see if it wraps around front hood corners I guess.
 

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The injection pump has no fuel related sewing where it bolts down to the engine, only oil. Just the delivery valves and the inlet line.

The hood crack/break at the front corner mount is common, I've seen it on all the 332s I've ever touched. It must be a vibration thing due to the shaking forces on the odd firing diesel.

The head lamp lens doesn't wrap around, it's got a slot on either side it goes into. The are little studs that break off that metal clips attach to that hold it all in.

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Discussion Starter · #129 · (Edited)
Went out and played around with the hood today. Pulled the hood hinge anchors off at front of tractor, four 10mm bolts in hard to reach place on left side (hour meter) and near muffler on right side. Removed the front lift/support rods from both hinges and got the broken piece of hood off of one rod. The front anchor on the right side under the hood is just as toasty, just hasn't let go yet. So I removed the front lift/support rods from the hinges, anchored the hinges back down to the tractor just to see how it operates this way. Not too bad really, less wobbly than before and the hood drops further out of the way when it's open...swings down almost parallel with hood pillars. Photos show the broken anchor point from left side, front hood hinge rods that I removed, shot of how the hood now rests against the front crosspiece directly over the battery tray, and some shots of how the hood now opens, swings down, and sits when closed.
The vibrations of the diesel engine and hood hinge design make the front anchor points on the hood itself susceptible to this kind of wear and tear/damage. Looked at the auction site and bookmarked two possible replacement hoods from open-framed tractors...pretty spendy for the others I saw but didn't bookmark/save. All the closed frame tractors (200 through 317 share the same hood/part number, as do all the open frame tractors starting with the Onan-powered 316. And of course the hinges themselves are different between closed frame and open frame tractors.
If I leave it this way I'm sure I'll have to come up with some way to secure the front of the hood to the pillars/crosspiece or frame when the hood is closed...otherwise it will shake, rattle and roll continuously.
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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Good luck! I've got my fingers crossed for you :)

EDIT: One more thing. The injection pump timing...in the book, it reads kinda weird. Translation from Japanese to English is a little wonky (actual words from Yanmar guy I talked to). For every 0.1" away from the timing mark, it is 1*. So for example, mine was 0.5" away from the injection timing mark (past it), so it was 8* before top dead center, instead of 13*. I ended up needing 0.025" worth of shims to get ~13* with my new pump. It had 0.02" when it started.
Thanks for the info...so each shim at .005 thickness is 1 degree of timing change (+ or -) and you added .023 or 5 shims? to get to 13 BTDC...if I read your post correctly, and if my mind is doing okay at math tonight (not always my strong suit).
Finally found a visual of the elusive shim, JD AM100747, online after checking the Deere parts catalog and doing a Google search. For some reason I had little round donut shims in my head so it didn't make sense until I saw this photo. Best price I can find for 1 is $8.99, worst price is $16.99...they must be cut from Mother Teresa's Sunday robe!
 

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Sorry, after re reading that, it wasn't as clear as I thouht...

Each 0.1" of measurement along the circumference of the flywheel is 1 degree. So if you check your timing on the flywheel mark vs the line in the casting at the sight hole...for every tenth of an inch apart, it is 1 degree of crank rotation different. This is all to give you a frame of reference. Your end goal is to align the 13* BTDC mark with the line on the casting.

The shim thickness doesn't correlate to that. The manual wants you to start with 0.020" thickness as a starting point, check your timing, and adjust the shin thickness to get to 13* (aligned to the mark).

The kit comes with a handful of different size shims so you can mix and match to get it right. I paid I think $6 for the kit at my Deere dealer back in July.

What I did was start with 0.020" shims per the book (2x 0.010" shims). When I checked my timing, it was 15* BTDC. I then put 0.040" shims to see where that would set it (1x 0.020" + 2x 0.010" = 0.040"). It was then only 5* BTDC. So I took it back apart again and tried 0.025" (1x 0.020 + 0.005" = 0.025"). This time when I checked timing it was really close to 13* BTDC like it's supposed to be, so I left it there.

Hope that's slightly more clear (?). Maybe read during the day lol. Please someone correct me if I goobered something, but I am confident I said that right.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
So how many shims are in the kit?...would guess 4 or 5 from your description. Any chance you remember the part number of the kit?
 

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Only about 2 grand to you in US currency Tmac. Bit of a drive though..
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The part number you listed is the right one. And yeah, it's 5 shims in the kit. Since the engine is made in Japan, it's actually metric. Two 0.2mm, two 0.3mm, and one 0.5mm shim in the kit. Both metric and SAE measurements are given in the book. Metric is way easier because the numbers tend to be nicer.

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I am going through my 332 charging/overheating problem now. It started with my fan belt stretching to the maximum amount of adjustment and a 6 month old belt replacement. As I was changing the belt I saw a mark on the driveshaft isolator, wasn’t overly concerned but investigated. What I found was a cracked isolator the eventuality would have failed. Anyone who has an original should check it out as nobody want this to come apart at wot.
It’s fun work and whenyour done your going to have a sweet tractor! 👍🏻👍🏻
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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
The part number you listed is the right one. And yeah, it's 5 shims in the kit. Since the engine is made in Japan, it's actually metric. Two 0.2mm, two 0.3mm, and one 0.5mm shim in the kit. Both metric and SAE measurements are given in the book. Metric is way easier because the numbers tend to be nicer.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
Good to know for future reference, thanks. Price at my dealer is about $12 right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
I am going through my 332 charging/overheating problem now. It started with my fan belt stretching to the maximum amount of adjustment and a 6 month old belt replacement. As I was changing the belt I saw a mark on the driveshaft isolator, wasn’t overly concerned but investigated. What I found was a cracked isolator the eventuality would have failed. Anyone who has an original should check it out as nobody want this to come apart at wot.
It’s fun work and whenyour done your going to have a sweet tractor! 👍🏻👍🏻 View attachment 271145 View attachment 271146
I'll look at that if I ever get the derelict capable of WOT. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Only about 2 grand to you in US currency Tmac. Bit of a drive though..
View attachment 271143
One at a time sir, one at a time. Otherwise my GT rescue yard would be overflowing. Nice looking machine though.
 

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Sorry, after re reading that, it wasn't as clear as I thouht...

Each 0.1" of measurement along the circumference of the flywheel is 1 degree. So if you check your timing on the flywheel mark vs the line in the casting at the sight hole...for every tenth of an inch apart, it is 1 degree of crank rotation different. This is all to give you a frame of reference. Your end goal is to align the 13* BTDC mark with the line on the casting.

The shim thickness doesn't correlate to that. The manual wants you to start with 0.020" thickness as a starting point, check your timing, and adjust the shin thickness to get to 13* (aligned to the mark).

The kit comes with a handful of different size shims so you can mix and match to get it right. I paid I think $6 for the kit at my Deere dealer back in July.

What I did was start with 0.020" shims per the book (2x 0.010" shims). When I checked my timing, it was 15* BTDC. I then put 0.040" shims to see where that would set it (1x 0.020" + 2x 0.010" = 0.040"). It was then only 5* BTDC. So I took it back apart again and tried 0.025" (1x 0.020 + 0.005" = 0.025"). This time when I checked timing it was really close to 13* BTDC like it's supposed to be, so I left it there.

Hope that's slightly more clear (?). Maybe read during the day lol. Please someone correct me if I goobered something, but I am confident I said that right.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
Great explanation, it got bookmarked and I think iam going to copy and paste it with the 332 info I have.
Nice work so far, tmac.
 
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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
A little more progress...got the aftermarket fuel filter a day early. Pulled the old one off, filled the cup on the new one with fuel and installed the filter. Ran the fuel pump until the cup filled up, bled the filter, and collected some fuel in a jar with the fuel line off at the injection pump...no air. Pinched the line, installed it on the injection pump, ran the fuel pump and bled the injection pump. Then fired it off and bled the injector lines one at a time.
It is running smoother, a little...so I think it may be hitting on three, just at the wrong time. It stumbles when I loosen the injector lines on each cylinder...but it's still not right, the IP must be out of time.
Ordered the IP shim pack, JD AM100747, from the local Deere house for $11...delivery promised from IL in 4-5 days. That's about how long it would take to get it from an online dealer/seller but at about double that price. I can wait.
So the plan is to get the shim kit, pull and clean the injector pump real good, reinstall and time the IP using the shim kit and timing marks on the flywheel. Nothing to lose in that process but a little time, and maybe learn something too...more brain food.
If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll pull the pump and injectors and take them to the diesel shop 45 miles away and wait to hear their diagnosis and price of the cure.
This is a derelict machine that came in a lot of 3 (216, 214 parts corpse, 332) for not much $$...so there's some room to spend a little, but not go crazy with that. And I need another JD GT like I need a hole in the head...already housing/feeding/using/maintaining a 212, 216 (former derelict), 322, and a 430.
We'll see where it goes...this could turn into a fall/winter/spring project but I've got time.
Stay tuned for another installment of Tmac's Big 332 Adventure...same Bat-forum, same Bat-thread.
 
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