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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Okay, got my shim kit from the Deere house today...just under $12 for four shims. Good thing for knocknock's post about how he checked/set his injection pump timing because there is no indication anywhere on the package what thickness the four shims are. The kits includes a .020, 010, and two .005 shims...just a WAG because I have no way of measuring their thickness.
Plan to remove/clean/check the fuel shutoff solenoid, disconnect the governor arm, and pull the injection pump tomorrow. Then I'll clean everything real good with an overnight soak in a diesel/gasoline mix, reassemble on Monday and check the timing against the flywheel mark to see where it currently is. Then I'll start with a .020 shim, check timing...and adjust from there until I get it as close as I can. Then reassemble according to the CTM3 instructions and see if that cures the rough running, no throttle response condition.
If not, then its time to pull the injectors and pump and visit the injection/diesel shop for a professional look see.
Meanwhile I can do a couple of update projects on the formerly Derelect 216...mowed/moved leaves with it today and need to inspect the variator/clutch and brake lock linkage...using my 212 as a guide. This winter I need to pull the steering column/box and clean and rebuild it, but that's a project for after leaf drop and cleanup.
I'll try to shoot some pix of the pump, etc., tomorrow if I don't have diesel-stink paws...don't want to skunk up the new "device."
 

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I would recommend checking the timing first, simply so you don't have to do the work more than once. Then disassemble, clean, and re time. That way there's no mistaking where it is currently. Once you take it appart, you'll want to clean the crap out of all the shmoo paint chipping off and whatnot. $15 calipers from harbor freight would be good enough to measure thickness. Or feeler gauges maybe if you have them.

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Made some progress. Removed fuel shutoff solenoid and cleaned it. Removed cover plate behind it and gov appears to be hooked up correctly to injection pump fuel rack...worked the rack back and forth and lubed it with Liquid wrench...moves freely. Put plate and solenoid back on, adjusted the solenoid linkage by the book.
Next up is timing test.
What puzzles my graying head is how does the throttle cable link/synch to governor? Very poor pix in the SM and no explanation at all in the CTM3 engine manual. Anybody got a pic to illustrate or an explanation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
No real update, I'm afraid. Weather and work have kept me out of the shop. I did talk to the diesel injection/service shop yesterday...described how the little Yanmar runs, and was told a procedure to run to check the injectors. Will add that to my list of tests to do next...fuel injection pump timing, injector test.
When I described how it was acting when running and how it doesn't answer the throttle, and how the air bubbles out of the injector lines move around...the tech postulated that the head gasket may be blown.
So I'm getting close to the fish-or-cut-bait stage on this project. Either spend some more $$ on it to fix the engine problem, then continue rehabbing it for even more $$$. Or pull the plug on this one, have a garden tractor/attachment fire sale and recoup what I have in it so far...about $450, more or less.
Can't pull the head and replace the head gasket myself because I don't have the time/tools/shop space to do the job right. My JD herd is already filling all available shop/garage space.
Guess it wouldn't hurt to take the tractor to the diesel shop, let them diagnose it and give an estimate on fixing it.
I suspect, but haven't verified, that the injection pump timing is stock/correct and the injectors are good...that's the next step. Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Well it passed the injector integrity test. Disabled the fuel solenoid, removed the injector lines at the injectors, cranked the engine and no air shooting out of any of the injectors. Should get the injection pump timing test done tomorrow. After I put the injector lines back on and bled the system again it fired right up and ran smoother than before...better than its ever ran I think...still getting air bubbles at the injector line fitting on Cyl No. 3 closest to radiator. Leaning towards a head gasket, but won't know until I check the pump timing tomorrow...supposed to be a wet, nasty, rainy day but it's parked on the concrete shop apron where I can push it forward under the shop porch roof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Checked the injection pump timing today, by the book. Was at 8* BTDC, just like knockknock's. Wrassled the pump out...what a chore and put .025 on it. Reinstalled pump, redid the test and it's roughly at 12* BTDC. Buttoned it back up and it cranks over slowly, pulled the 322's battery down...so I dropped the battery into the 322, charged it up to 12.8 volts...but the 332 still cranks slowly.
Need to see if I can get a bigger, fresher battery in it, bleed the injector lines and see if it will fire off and run. Whether it does or not, I've decided to drag it to the diesel shop for a diagnosis...if I can get it there.
 

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This is very interesting! I learned today that the Yanmar spec for the engine is 18* BTDC. I Also learned today (via measurements) that the timing mark on the flywheel is actually 18* BTDC.

So the Deere manual says 13*, but it says to set it to the mark on the flywheel, which is 18*. BUT, the fact that both yours and mine where 13*, makes me think Deere actually wants it to be 13*. What the hell...

Now I want to ask a non manufacturer diesel shop what they would time it to (without telling them what the Deere/Yanmar specs are). Like how many degrees BTDC. I presume a Deere dealer would time it to the mark, as would a Yanmar dealer. Simply because the mark is there.

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
I need a stronger U1-7 battery. Checked the SM and it specifies 342 CCA. Mine in the 322 is only 220 CCA...so the 332 is whipping its butt. I'll have to check at Stuffmart and TSC tomorrow for a stronger one...nothing else in my machines will fit, way to large.
Oh yeah, in the test my fuel flow quit completely then dripped very slowly...since you asked before about this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
This is very interesting! I learned today that the Yanmar spec for the engine is 18* BTDC. I Also learned today (via measurements) that the timing mark on the flywheel is actually 18* BTDC.

So the Deere manual says 13*, but it says to set it to the mark on the flywheel, which is 18*. BUT, the fact that both yours and mine where 13*, makes me think Deere actually wants it to be 13*. What the hell...

Now I want to ask a non manufacturer diesel shop what they would time it to (without telling them what the Deere/Yanmar specs are). Like how many degrees BTDC. I presume a Deere dealer would time it to the mark, as would a Yanmar dealer. Simply because the mark is there.

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Interesting...so the flywheel mark is actually 18*, but that sure sux for me because now I feel obligated to pull the pump again and put it back to 13*...where it was before. It was cranking easier, starting and running on 2 at least. Instead of cranking hard/slow, pulling the battery down and not firing at all after I added shims.
Getting the pump fuel rail/slider hooked back up is a BEAR for old fat boys in bifocals!
My rail/slider was a little gummy/sticky so I cleaned it with carb cleaner and got it sliding freely again before I added shims and reinstalled the pump.
The local Stuffmart has a 340 CCA U1 battery in stock so I'll probably go ahead and upgrade tomorrow.
 

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I'm thinking now to back mine off to 13* as well. I feel good about that now knowing yours was also NOT at the timing mark. Meaning that it is likely that Deere spec'd the engine at 13* against the Yanmar 18* recommended. But failed to mention in the service manual about the timing mark being 18*. Super strange...

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Well it's one step forward, two steps back. Squeezed a couple hours out of my day today to spend in the shop. Pulled the injection pump, got it shimmed back to .020, pump reinstalled, and proceeded to bleed air out of the lines. Got the fuel filter bled, then the injection pump fitting where the fuel line attaches. All this with a new battery installed. Turned it off to grab my 17mm wrench to crack the injector lines...turned key one click right and no power at all. No fuel pump clicking...nada. No power at Start either. So now I get to diverge off on a tangent and check the solenoid, starter and key switch....Yay! Not!
The seat safety switch on this machine has been jumpered, and so has the N switch...by the PO or someone else. PTO switch/light was still active and working when I had it running last.
Checked the service manual, so I have test procedures to follow for starter and solenoid. Ignition switch and plug is so nasty/dusty I hate to touch it to probe for voltage, let alone remove it to check continuity...if I can figure out how to get to it. The manual also mentioned checking the fusible link and replacing it if there are no dash lights at all...where is the fusible link and how do you replace it?
 
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