After a year of dealing with a brand new strong box battery I have replaced it with a new one from NAPA. The strong box leaked constantly causing corrosion everywhere. I tried everything to stop it but couldn't. The new battery was less than 1/2 the cost of the strong box. Will see how it holds up.
Done with JD strong box batteries
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The parts guy at my JD Dealer,told me to buy a battery somewhere else.He said that JD's batteries were weak and wouldn't last as long as others.
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3,271 Posts
I have gone with interstate batteries. I too REALLY hate strong boxes.
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141 Posts
Mike : …My 318 has seen only 2 Strong-box's in its 27 years of Life ……1 was when the tractor was brand New, the second was a weak moment when I was at the JD Dealer ……. BOTH Batteries had spewed acid fumes and caused Major damage one time even dumping acid residual all over the TCM ……
I Have been using those NAPA batteries in between the 1st and 2nd and ever since …. in our long winter climates these batteries are hard to beat in longevity ….."Best Bang for the Buck " !!!
I Have been using those NAPA batteries in between the 1st and 2nd and ever since …. in our long winter climates these batteries are hard to beat in longevity ….."Best Bang for the Buck " !!!
My 318 had a brand new Strongbox in it when I bought it. Two years later, it was spewing acid out the vents. Some electrical checking showed that it would not charge up beyond around 13.2 volts; any attempts to charge it further turned into electrolysis of the electrolyte, causing the spew. The voltage output of the voltage regulator is about 14.5 volts on my tractor, so the problem was obvious.
My solution was to get an Interstate MT-26 battery. I don't know if the battery cables on my tractor have been replaced, but the Ford reverse terminal configuration would not install with the terminals on the front side. The MT-26 has the terminals "straight," that is, reversed from the 22F battery that Deere specifies for the tractor. Made a neat installation, and I think the Interstate is on its fifth seasons. Of course, I had to remove the battery tray and pedestal sides, repaint them, and do a good baking soda cleanup in the pedestal area.
I have bought only Interstates for the past twenty years, for all my needs. That includes the U1 tab type used in most small tractors. Not necessarily the cheapest to be found, but I've run Interstates in vehicles for ten years and replaced them because I didn't want to gamble on them lasting longer.
Hank
My solution was to get an Interstate MT-26 battery. I don't know if the battery cables on my tractor have been replaced, but the Ford reverse terminal configuration would not install with the terminals on the front side. The MT-26 has the terminals "straight," that is, reversed from the 22F battery that Deere specifies for the tractor. Made a neat installation, and I think the Interstate is on its fifth seasons. Of course, I had to remove the battery tray and pedestal sides, repaint them, and do a good baking soda cleanup in the pedestal area.
I have bought only Interstates for the past twenty years, for all my needs. That includes the U1 tab type used in most small tractors. Not necessarily the cheapest to be found, but I've run Interstates in vehicles for ten years and replaced them because I didn't want to gamble on them lasting longer.
Hank
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141 Posts
Hey Hank & others !……. i've been wanting to pass this method of cleaning batteries and areas around, up for along time now ….
Everybody always brings up the "Baking Soda and Water" process
Well just for Kicks try this Guys … this method I learned from an old mechanic 25yrs ago ….. "everybody" has this Readily available anywhere Too !!! ….. "BLACK HOT COFFEE" ….. I wouldn't of believed it if I didn't see this myself …It TOTALLY removes ALL acid content, and further removes ANY Possible chance of it starting it up again as it happens over and over again with Baking soda, which alls it does is remove the acidic content moving it to another area where it begins to corrode again, as in the battery tray under the Battery or as in a car down the side of the inner fender ….
Just pour it slowly over the Battery and surrounding affected areas (No Cream or Sugar …LOL) and no need to further rinse it off just pour it and forget it …. no need for a wire brush or tooth picks or anything ……. Makes the entire are look like new again (other than the current damage that acid has done), Believe me it works !!!
Please don't knock this idea until you've tried it … and then let us know what you think !!! ….. Cheers … GK
Everybody always brings up the "Baking Soda and Water" process
Well just for Kicks try this Guys … this method I learned from an old mechanic 25yrs ago ….. "everybody" has this Readily available anywhere Too !!! ….. "BLACK HOT COFFEE" ….. I wouldn't of believed it if I didn't see this myself …It TOTALLY removes ALL acid content, and further removes ANY Possible chance of it starting it up again as it happens over and over again with Baking soda, which alls it does is remove the acidic content moving it to another area where it begins to corrode again, as in the battery tray under the Battery or as in a car down the side of the inner fender ….
Just pour it slowly over the Battery and surrounding affected areas (No Cream or Sugar …LOL) and no need to further rinse it off just pour it and forget it …. no need for a wire brush or tooth picks or anything ……. Makes the entire are look like new again (other than the current damage that acid has done), Believe me it works !!!
Please don't knock this idea until you've tried it … and then let us know what you think !!! ….. Cheers … GK
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280 Posts
My Interstate dealer is 45 miles away in Peoria, as I live in Galesburg. I learned a number of years ago that they truck batteries to Galesburg every Thursday. I got them to drop off what I need and I either leave them a check or pay by card, and of course leave a core right on my front porch. I have been buying what they term as a "Reconditioned Battery." A U1 costs me $20 plus sales tax. A larger car type with post terminals is $40. I have not been unhappy doing this. One of the recon U1's went bad before its 6 mo. guarantee was up, so they brought me another one. Interstate also rebuilds battery packs for cordless tools cheaper than other places I have seen advertised.
Just what "reconditioned" means I am still unclear on. They seemed somewhat vague when I asked them. Also don't know what CCA I am getting, but I never had one that did not perform adequately yet. I buy and sell alot of tractors and it seems everything I get needs a battery, so Interstate has saved me alot of money.
Just what "reconditioned" means I am still unclear on. They seemed somewhat vague when I asked them. Also don't know what CCA I am getting, but I never had one that did not perform adequately yet. I buy and sell alot of tractors and it seems everything I get needs a battery, so Interstate has saved me alot of money.
Baking soda neutralizes the Sulfuric acid and it does not "move" to another place. If the other place is corroded it needs the baking soda treatment. I have cleaned lots of battery trays and repainted, never had a problem with it coming back.
Coffee if it works... go for it.
Coffee if it works... go for it.
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3,271 Posts
Also not saying coffee doesn't work. Baking soda doesn't move the acid to another spot it neutralizes it. You can hear it when it sizzles. I did this to my VW this year after the fire burned 1/2 of the battery. It is a matter of a caustic neutralizing and acid.
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430 Posts
Steven, Generally speaking the Interstate Reconditioned batteries are one of a couple groups:
Batteries taken back by Interstate as warranty batteries that upon charging and retesting are above the test thresholds to qualify for warranty. They are supposed to get the original label peeled off and a recon label applied.
Second group is batteries brought back from dealers as part of rotation of stock to keep them fresh. Once they hit the 15 month mark they need to be written off and sold as Reconditioned. they are to be stripped of original labeling and re-stickered as Recons.
The third group out there is factory test or blem batteries. These are sold by the manufacturer in bulk random lots to the dealer. They are usually stamped BLEM. Hard to know how old they actually are. In general it's the same idea as the rest...they get charged, tested, and tagged as recons
Last group is the batteries that were turned in as cores and noticed by the distributor as looking new or fresh enough to test out for recon sale. These are sometimes Interstate and other brands. Once charged and tested the passing batteries are cleaned up and stickered Recon.
The way you can tell the age is the first two stamped letter and numbers...the letter is the month and the number is the last digit of the year it was original put together at the factory. Do not pay attention the removable punch stickers....those are for the design of keeping track of when it was installed...and have little to do with the actual age.
Warranty periods Interstate will offer on the recon product varies some by location.
Gary K -- I am anxious to try the coffee method. Learning something new every day here!
Batteries taken back by Interstate as warranty batteries that upon charging and retesting are above the test thresholds to qualify for warranty. They are supposed to get the original label peeled off and a recon label applied.
Second group is batteries brought back from dealers as part of rotation of stock to keep them fresh. Once they hit the 15 month mark they need to be written off and sold as Reconditioned. they are to be stripped of original labeling and re-stickered as Recons.
The third group out there is factory test or blem batteries. These are sold by the manufacturer in bulk random lots to the dealer. They are usually stamped BLEM. Hard to know how old they actually are. In general it's the same idea as the rest...they get charged, tested, and tagged as recons
Last group is the batteries that were turned in as cores and noticed by the distributor as looking new or fresh enough to test out for recon sale. These are sometimes Interstate and other brands. Once charged and tested the passing batteries are cleaned up and stickered Recon.
The way you can tell the age is the first two stamped letter and numbers...the letter is the month and the number is the last digit of the year it was original put together at the factory. Do not pay attention the removable punch stickers....those are for the design of keeping track of when it was installed...and have little to do with the actual age.
Warranty periods Interstate will offer on the recon product varies some by location.
Gary K -- I am anxious to try the coffee method. Learning something new every day here!
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FYI-if anyone needs I do sell the battery trays for for several models that have the sides welded up so the only spot for potential acid is the one hole in the bottom-and it is stainless steel so it won't rust. I had them made for the sole purpose of the acid issue people had as I myself don't have any of that tray install since I don't own a model that needs it yet.
Bob-good info on the interstate batteries.
Bob-good info on the interstate batteries.
I have have never bought a deere with a good strongbox battery in it, and some of them were 6 months to a year old.
I get type 26, and 26r batteries at a local battery store to replace them, I forget what brand, but they are recommended over the exide's, by the guys at the battery shop and they are both $60 pre tax.
If you are just using an L+G battery, walmart is the best place to buy. for under $30 you can get a 300cca L+G battery, if you want more amps in a L+G battery, tractor supply has an exide L+G for $45 that is 400 or 450ccs.
I get type 26, and 26r batteries at a local battery store to replace them, I forget what brand, but they are recommended over the exide's, by the guys at the battery shop and they are both $60 pre tax.
If you are just using an L+G battery, walmart is the best place to buy. for under $30 you can get a 300cca L+G battery, if you want more amps in a L+G battery, tractor supply has an exide L+G for $45 that is 400 or 450ccs.
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605 Posts
Couple years ago I needed to replace the Strong Box battery in my 140. Not because it leaked just because it wouldn't hold a charge anymore after the five years it was in the tractor. The parts manager at my Deere dealer sold me an Interstate battery instead of the Strong Box. He said that's what they (that particular dealership) uses as replacement batteries. I have a Strong Box (second one) in my 3320 that hasn't had any issue yet (knock on wood) and maybe I should rethink the battery issue the next time I need a battery for that tractor. I do have 2 new John Deere lawn tractors that have the "Lawn Mower" versions of the Strong Box in them. Maybe I should look into replacing them before something goes wrong?? Guess I never knew the Strong Box batteries were so bad. Thank you for bring this to our attention Mike!!
Kenneth
Kenneth
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