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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a question and I need advice concerning my 1972, 140 H1, from all the machinist out there;
My front spindles are a 'little' sloppy, so I'm thinking about building a jig to hold the front axle securely while I dill out the bores on my drill press to 1 1/8' so I can press in new 1" ID x 1 1/8" OD bushings.
Is this feasible and what kind of drill bit would do a good job?
Yes. I know I should take it to a machine shop that has a milling machine but, the last time I did that, I was handed a $400. bill for a relatively simple job! So, at todays prices, no thanks! I'd like to do the job 'in house'.
 

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Ron,

Technically this is most accurately described as a reaming cut, as you want to keep the hole centered and axially aligned to its original bore axis. Reamers in this size often run $100 or more, and you likely cannot remove all the material from a 1 inch original bore with a single size reamer... You may discover that finding a replacement axle without the slop is a cheaper solution.

Drilling a 1.125 inch hole in a big forged/cast assembly is going to be a challenge and you need a relatively slow drill speed and a similarly slow feed speed as well...

Do you have a 'spare' axle assembly to attempt this on? Take lots of documentation pictures and tell us how you fair with this bushing conversion.

Chuck
 

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Ron, I see no reason why sleeving that bore should not work and I agree, having the part machined is the most accurate method. If you have a local community college with a machinist's training program nearby, or even a technical school, the instructor might be willing to take on your "real world project" as a training exercise for advanced students. It's a relatively simple project that would give a student a hands on/practical learning assignment. They may charge for the work or maybe just accept a donation to the school or department as payment. It's worth a try.
Keep us posted.
 

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One thing to keep in mind, is exact precision probably isn't necessary. The spindle doesn't turn much, or fast. The alignment isn't critical either. My spindles have worn pretty bad over the last 20 years. I'm considering fixing mine myself as well. Seeing as how the tire tread still looks fine, I think any improvement I can make would be a whole lot better than they are now.
 

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Ron, isn't there already a replaceable bushing in there. If so seems like it would be cheaper and quicker just to replace that. View attachment 287073
The later 140s didn't have bushings. Not sure what year that changed, but my '73 doesn't have bushings either.
After looking at JD Parts, SN 38,000+ was when they went to 1" spindles with thrust washers and got rid of the bushings.
 

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I just went thu similar ordeal w/318. I started with new bushings as they are flanged top & bottom and then learned my kingpin side of the spindle had about 20 thousandths of wear so new bushings didn't help. I used small mig welder to lay a small bead or three down length of kingpin and cleaned them up with light grinding and a flat file to smooth it out. Mine is meant to go to work so you may want to find a new spindle. Also the 318 newer models went to a 25mm bushing and kingpin if that interests you.
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If you access to a 7/8" tap cut threads in bushing. With a 7/8" bolt and nut & a 1 1/4"x 3" pipe nipple, run nut all the way on bolt, slip thru nipple, and thread into bushing. Back nut off and bushing pulls right into nipple. If you want to know how to install new one let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you access to a 7/8" tap cut threads in bushing. With a 7/8" bolt and nut & a 1 1/4"x 3" pipe nipple, run nut all the way on bolt, slip thru nipple, and thread into bushing. Back nut off and bushing pulls right into nipple. If you want to know how to install new one let me know.
What? Please forgive an old guy, but I'm not understanding what you're saying.
 
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