Easy Way to install 318 mower deck?
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I'll add a note here that I've got a 20X32 inch sheet of 3/4 inch plywood on four casters that I use to roll mower decks in and out from under tractors. Much easier than pushing and pulling to R&R decks from under tractors, and makes it easy to get links in the proper positions for reinstall.
Hank
Hank
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10,555 Posts
Hank and Bill,
I know what you mean about the ease of rolling a deck into place and I have found that the three caster "piano leg" dollies are about the lowest profile way to do it on smooth concrete. Just place one under each gauge wheel...
Harbor Freight has inexpensive ones (~$4) that are fine for the low weight loads presented by a mowing deck. And they are easy to store when not in use as they can be nested...
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-wheel-movers-dolly-67208.html
Chuck
I know what you mean about the ease of rolling a deck into place and I have found that the three caster "piano leg" dollies are about the lowest profile way to do it on smooth concrete. Just place one under each gauge wheel...
Harbor Freight has inexpensive ones (~$4) that are fine for the low weight loads presented by a mowing deck. And they are easy to store when not in use as they can be nested...
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-wheel-movers-dolly-67208.html
Chuck
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10,555 Posts
AJ and Hank,
Unlike the flat straps that adjust the gauge wheels on on the 46 and 50 inch decks that fit the open frame tractors (318, 322, etc...) improvements were subsequently made. Late model decks such as the really cumbersome 62 inch shaft driven mulching unit on my x495 have ROUND vertical supports for the gauge wheels and a cross drilled hole to use as a side-to-side caster lock for installing/removing the deck from the tractor. This deck had both inch size shafts and later metric hardware available depending on year of manufacture -- don't ask me how I know this...
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Note that this large deck had grease fittings on the gauge wheels...!!
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The 48 inch REPLACEMENT deck has this style of re-positionable gauge wheel with round post as well...makes sliding it under a tractor a snap.
Chuck
Unlike the flat straps that adjust the gauge wheels on on the 46 and 50 inch decks that fit the open frame tractors (318, 322, etc...) improvements were subsequently made. Late model decks such as the really cumbersome 62 inch shaft driven mulching unit on my x495 have ROUND vertical supports for the gauge wheels and a cross drilled hole to use as a side-to-side caster lock for installing/removing the deck from the tractor. This deck had both inch size shafts and later metric hardware available depending on year of manufacture -- don't ask me how I know this...
Note that this large deck had grease fittings on the gauge wheels...!!
The 48 inch REPLACEMENT deck has this style of re-positionable gauge wheel with round post as well...makes sliding it under a tractor a snap.
Chuck
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235 Posts
Bill this is the easiest way I have found to remove and install a deck on a 300 series tractor. I use a floor jack to lift the front of the tractor off the ground in this procedure so I don't have to disconnect the mule drive from the deck. The J pins on some decks can be a pain to remove and install, so here goes.
Step 1. Remove the grill
2. Loosen the belt tension knob enough to remove the belt from the deck pulley.
3. Disconnect the lift arms from the draft arms.
4. Disconnect the draft arms from the tractor frame.
5. Remove the belt from the engine pulley.
6. Grab the mule drive and pull it forward and drop it off it's mount in the frame.
7. Put a floor jack under the LH frame rail and jack the front end up high enough to slide the deck and mule drive out the RH side of the tractor.
8. Let the jack down and install the grill.
Install in reverse order.
I can have the deck off in less than 5 minutes doing it this way.
Later,
Justin
Step 1. Remove the grill
2. Loosen the belt tension knob enough to remove the belt from the deck pulley.
3. Disconnect the lift arms from the draft arms.
4. Disconnect the draft arms from the tractor frame.
5. Remove the belt from the engine pulley.
6. Grab the mule drive and pull it forward and drop it off it's mount in the frame.
7. Put a floor jack under the LH frame rail and jack the front end up high enough to slide the deck and mule drive out the RH side of the tractor.
8. Let the jack down and install the grill.
Install in reverse order.
I can have the deck off in less than 5 minutes doing it this way.
Later,
Justin
Guys thank you.... I was trying to do this outside on a white rock driveway and in the sun. A friend of mine stopped by and helped me get it over in the shade and installed.
I had taken it off last fall and installed for the first time my blade and then built the bucket project. Never dreamed that re-installing the deck would be such a problem.
When I get home I am going to copy and paste all the suggestions and print out for next time!!
I had taken it off last fall and installed for the first time my blade and then built the bucket project. Never dreamed that re-installing the deck would be such a problem.
When I get home I am going to copy and paste all the suggestions and print out for next time!!
Bill, I feel your pain. I use my 322 to mow a weed lot on another property just twice a year and just last weekend I had to put my 50 inch deck on and it's a pita for sure. No pavement or hard surface, just weeds and dirt. What I do is line up the deck on the left side of the tractor then loop a rope around the first blade spindle in the opening of the deck chute. Then with the rope under the tractor I pull the deck under and through the under side of the tractor from the right side. It actually pulls through pretty straightly. Then all the hookups are standard using a bar to lift as I connect each piece. My problem is the tractor won't fit into the storage shed with the deck on so I do this as few times as I can. Someday I'm rebuilding the shed doors to accommodate 50+ inches.
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Is there an Easy Way to install or proper way to install a 318 mower deck?
Hello Bill
Yup, let your wife do it as you watch her.
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I always do mine on my concrete garage floor. I use my floor jack to help raise it enough so that the lift arms and mule drive slip into Place with No Fight. That's what work's best for me. Regards, Kurt
Hello Bill
Yup, let your wife do it as you watch her.
Some interesting comments here on mower deck R&R.
The plywood-on-casters platform is something I've had around for maybe 50 years, and I don't recall where it came from. Chuck's suggestion of the 3-caster dollies might work a little better. And I think it interesting that Deere put round positioning holders on later decks so that you can roll the deck out on the anti-scalp wheels.
On the M01013 50" decks, I take all four anti-scalp wheels off the deck and back off the stop to allow the deck to drop all the way down.
Remove the belt from the PTO pulley, lift the deck all the way up, roll the platform under it, and drop the deck so that the links are loose.
Disconnect the rear links and remove them from the tractor, pull the J-pins with a bar, remove the mule drive, turn the steering, and roll the deck out. Installation is the reverse. A good yank on the front of the deck will usually get the J-pins to snap into place.
If I had to do this on the ground rather than on a concrete floor, I'd just use a couple of chunks of 2X4 long enough to slide the deck out on them, rather than trying to drag it on the ground. Might need 4X4 to hold the deck high enough to hold the links loose for R&R.
As a side note, the draft arm that is welded to the cross bar that was originally installed tends to break at the cross bar. The current Deere replacement has a reinforcement welded in there, but you have to install the piece upside-down because they put the reinforcement on the wrong side. No real problem, as you can swap sides with the two lift links coming down from the tractor. Also, when reinstalling the two lift links, make sure the bellcranks on the tractor are flipped forward.
Hank
The plywood-on-casters platform is something I've had around for maybe 50 years, and I don't recall where it came from. Chuck's suggestion of the 3-caster dollies might work a little better. And I think it interesting that Deere put round positioning holders on later decks so that you can roll the deck out on the anti-scalp wheels.
On the M01013 50" decks, I take all four anti-scalp wheels off the deck and back off the stop to allow the deck to drop all the way down.
Remove the belt from the PTO pulley, lift the deck all the way up, roll the platform under it, and drop the deck so that the links are loose.
Disconnect the rear links and remove them from the tractor, pull the J-pins with a bar, remove the mule drive, turn the steering, and roll the deck out. Installation is the reverse. A good yank on the front of the deck will usually get the J-pins to snap into place.
If I had to do this on the ground rather than on a concrete floor, I'd just use a couple of chunks of 2X4 long enough to slide the deck out on them, rather than trying to drag it on the ground. Might need 4X4 to hold the deck high enough to hold the links loose for R&R.
As a side note, the draft arm that is welded to the cross bar that was originally installed tends to break at the cross bar. The current Deere replacement has a reinforcement welded in there, but you have to install the piece upside-down because they put the reinforcement on the wrong side. No real problem, as you can swap sides with the two lift links coming down from the tractor. Also, when reinstalling the two lift links, make sure the bellcranks on the tractor are flipped forward.
Hank
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850 Posts
That is a great picture ,Chuck. Because of this problem I got a real good deal on my latest 322. The bellcranks had flipped over and caused some grief for the PO. Apparently frustration set in resulting in him cutting the draft arms in two.
Like I said,it was a REALLY good price,so I didn't mind flipping the bellcranks back over and welding the draft arms back together.
Like I said,it was a REALLY good price,so I didn't mind flipping the bellcranks back over and welding the draft arms back together.
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