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Ha, I have wondered that too, I think its for styling. The cubbys of the time had pretty plain boring metal hoods. Deere's have some extra curves.

But every time I'm repairing or replacing a busted up plastic/fiberglass hood I'm thinking the same thing.
 

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3-316k, 2-317,salvage 1-300, 4- 140, 2 are h3, 3-112 sq, 3rf 112, 5rf 110 and a bunch of decks, plo
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I like the sound of that. I`ve spent a lot of time fixing the fiberglass ones, metal would be cool.
 

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It wouldn't be terribly hard to make a plug of a hood and make a more heavy duty and serviceable specimen. I'm real surprised this style of hood was never updated in the aftermarket. At least a modification to the nose that made it less susceptible to cracking
 

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The 10 and 20 series tractors these garden tractors were styled off of had metal hoods, but the tractor sold for a lot more so the extra cost could be absorbed.

 

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GT's were a new market for Deere in '63 . Then , according to the WFM model info page , they only sold 1000 110's the first year . I would guess they were hesitant to go "whole hog" & fiberglass hoods were lower short-term risk , investment wise . After that , it was easier NOT to change things . I'm not sure about the quick change to steel fenders , though .
 

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The fenders where changed to metal because they would break if you put to much weight on them. As for the hood Deere has always experimented with different materials on there equipment. Also the designer Henry Drefuss company from New York may have wanted fiberglass used. Fiberglass was probably cheaper and the best product to get the hood shape they wanted. To me it adds a little class to the JD mowers where everyone else at the time slapped on a metal dull looking hood.
 

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Dave if you own a RF you know that in order to get off the seat and off the tractor you need to push down on the fender to get of. This caused them to break and be replaced in large numbers under warranty. Fiberglass hoods broke but not at an alarming rate. Roger
 

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The problem with the fiberglass hood breakage is not with the hood itself, but a simple design flaw overlooked by JD. After awhile, if the articulated hinges on the older models, and the plain hinge of the newer series lack lubrication,
they fail to open in unisyn. The hood then twists and breaks by the carriage bolts. Ask me how I know.
Sure, a thicker hood would help, but the hinges need to be joined to each other by a crossmember.
I made one by cutting a piece of 2 inch conduit
with a pipe cutter for an even cut. Then I pressed on a plug at each end that I cut with a hole saw to locate a 3/8" threaded rod though the center, then though a hole in each hinge to cinch them tight to each other. You could substitute trimmed washers or better still, weld the conduit to the hinges at each end. Now the hinges will ALWAYS open together.
 

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Dominico P - One way to stop the cracking on the nose section of fiberglass hoods is to stop running into trees and fence posts and the like.


Stephen A. Stepanian - One way I've learned to keep the hood from being too difficult to open is to keep the spring clip that holds the hood down greased. When that spring clip becomes too dry it will become harder to release and harder to open, therefore, causing the twisting and hard jerking motion to open the hood. I always use two hands on both sides of the hood and pull up with even pressure and motion. I keep the hood stay clips on all my older John Deere LGTs greased.

Kenneth
 

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HEHE, I claim the 5th. The hoods on my tractors were buggered up by the previous owners. I learnt the trick of cleaning the spring latch too. It made a big difference how easily the hood opens and closes.
 
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