Hello Rudy. I haven't done anything with this tractor for a few days. Have been working on a model 44 loader and the two properties I own getting ready for winter. I will post pictures when I get back on it. I know I will be missing some parts which will delay finishing the project but pretty sure I have all I need to get the engine in it and get it running.
I had to leave this afternoon so did not get the painting completed. Plan to finish it in the morning and hopefully get the engine moved from the 300 into the 316K.
The first thing I did was I took the die grinder with wire brush to the foot wells. After I had them brushed I spray with rust reformer. They cleaned up nice. Still need to remove decal and do same on area behind the console. Will sand and spray paint the fender deck to finish it. The 300 deck has been professionally painted by body shop. Will take the tail lights off that deck and put on 316K deck.
Engine area repaint underway. Inside the right frame rail was covered with weld spatter that I needed to scrape off with a chisel.
Front bumper is hangling to dry. Will be installed tonight. Need to remove fender deck so I can paint around the two rear engine mount isolaters. Will try to get that done tonight also,
Right now I am checking out the electrical system. Most is alright but two things that are not working.
I have 12V out of the accessory terminal on switch for lights but no power at tail lights or head lights. Have not checked light switch yet.
I have 12V though most of the cranking circuit. 12V going into the PTO switch but no power coming out with the pto switched off. Have not pulled wire to check for loss of power. Without power out to starter relay I have no continuity to the starter solenoid.
Neutral safety switch is working fine.
Seat switched is jumpered so power is coming into and out of switch. No seat or switch on the tractor.
Wiring is pretty simple on these vintage closed frame tractors. I do want to have everything electrical working before I bolt the engine in so all I have to do is plug connectors in and crank it over when ready.
Removed the neutral safety switch so I could get to the light switch. 12V going in but nothing coming out. Removed plug from ignition switch and wire brushed terminals on the switch and blew out the connector and male spades on the switch with compressed air. Sprayed terminals with electrical cleaner. Wa La, I have lights front and rear.
2nd and 3rd photos ... the yellow wire connects to headlight harness. The black wire connects to front pto. Both check ok with headlight switch on and with pto switch on.
4th photo shows the headlight switch hidden behind the neutral safety switch. Two male spades on side of switch are power in and power out.
The single connector hanging loose is an auxiliary connector. I typical install a rocket switch and run a wire to the switch.Then switched power can be run to front or rear of tractor. My 314 and 317 have a couple of switches. Front for auxiliary lighting with snow blower. Rear for either backup lights or switched power to sprayer.
One other thing to notice in 4th photo, the wire harness was routed between the steering column and the console. This routing stressed the ignition switch adapter wiring. I routed the wires in front of the steering column to relieve stress.
The two-way connector in photo 3 should have a mating 2 wire connector. The top terminal connects to the pink wire from the PTO switch to the positive side of the coil and the lower terminal connects the light green wire from the ignition switch to the voltage regulator.
Section 40 of service manual SM2104 does and excellent job of displaying and describing the electrical systems on 300/312/314/316K tractors. Page 128 is the overall chart I use to trace wiring on 316K.
Next was to diagnose no power thru PTO switch to that two wire connector.
It is common for me to find the connector on the ignition switch damaged/melted thus no routing 12V to correct locations based on position of the ignition switch.
I removed the terminals from the original connector and plugged them into a new connector. The original connector was missing a piece of the connector which was not working. Terminals were clean and not rusty.
Like the rest of the terminals I wire brushed everything and sprayed with terminal cleaner.
Everything is working correctly now except I failed to check the ammeter. There is power going thru it so if meter is not working it is a bad meter.
Last photo shows rerouted harness connected to ignition switch.
Still need to paint around the rear isolaters and engine can be swapped.
Want to do some cleanup inside the console area but am not going to tear everything apart to clean it up. Just going to wire brush and sand rusty areas then spray with rust reformer. No green paint. Exterior of console may get some green paint.
get the area under the battery tray cleaned up and sprayed with rust reformer. Then install the battery tray,
The brace with the hood clamp needs paint.
Remove the fender deck and get the outside of the frame painted back past console. After above is complete I will swap the engine. Need to start eating my Wheaties.
Auxiliary connector wiring will wait.
I need to have a look under the fuel tank. Tail light harness routing? Tail light housings are $15 each. Can buy LED lights for $5-$6 a pair. If I go LED I will not cut up stock tail light harness. Will make new.
May need to replace fuel line.
I do need to pressure wash under fuel tank.
Pretty sure breather for sight gage is missing ... p/n AM36965 ... $15. Ouch, but necessary part for sight gage to work properly.
Gabby, 2 comments! I bought my 2nd 314 in 2006 (??) and soon after, the battery died. When I removed it the battery tray was BADLY rusted. I wire brushed it, applied rust converter and followed with 2 coats of automotive undercoat, available at auto parts stores in spray cans. I always check under the hood before starting and now, in 2021 15 years later, battery tray looks like I painted it yesterday!
Inline fuel filters are available at auto parts stores also... one stop shopping! Get a fuel filter... $.99 to $10... drill a 1/32"-1/16" hole in the outside and you've got your AM36965! Bob
Robert, I need to check the 300 I am using for parts to see if there is a breather on that tractor. Same goes for the tail light housings which I know i have on 300 fender deck.
Years ago I had the fender deck, hood, some other parts professionally painted at a neighboring body shop. Not planning on using those parts except engine shields which were for a 316K, not a 300. I need to find the grille, headlight harness, headlight lens, and a starter. I should have all those parts. When this project is complete the rest of the 300 parts I have will be for sale/trade.
Robert, I plan to do something similar on the fender deck foot rests. I have already wire brushed with die grinder and sprayed with rust reformer. Need to do same with rest of rusty areas. Will tape off the foot rest areas then spray paint the fender deck. When that is dry I will taped fresh green paint and spray a bed liner on the foot rests. Never did this before but was not happy with the last pads I ordered to do same on 140 and 318 decks. I think is will work ok but don't know about durability. Can't fail if you don't try.
Rust reformer is a catalyst that puts a sealed coating on rusty parts. Those areas can be sanded prior to painting but I do not think it will become a beauty queen. To further improve appearance I assume you could cover the area with a coat of bondo and sand smooth. I am not that picky because I paint with spray cans. Sealed surface between rust and paint is good enough for me.
N2, A rust reformer converts iron oxide, rust, to iron phosphate (depending on brand) but basically stop rust from continuing to form. Think a a piece of metal sitting in a field for years. It'll start with surface rust, then get thicker, and eventually the original iron is totally converted to rust and gone! A reformer stops this process of continued "rusting". Lot's of chemical reactions involved and even electrical! Once dried, I primer directly over it without sanding the reformer... a light sanding on the rusted surface will flatten things out!... and maybe (??) wet sand the primer. A reformer can also be used if you have "pitting" in your sheet metal parts. When dry, add some body filler, sand, prime, and top coat.
AS far as a top coat/show room finish on the undercoat, don't know. I used it purely for protection against battery acid. Bob
Uncovered the 300 chasis with engine and looking evaluating engine swap.
Complete wiring harness except head light harness is still with the engine.
Main harness has been hacked in some areas. I wanted to use the two-wire connector for coil/regulator on the 316K but the connector has been cut off and wires soldered together. I have new, both male and female connectors to repair/replace on 316. That is the only issue I see with the wiring.
Coil and condenser still on engine but starter missing.
In the house to research engine mounting in frame. Not sure the cradles from a 300 are same as 316K.
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