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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
The rust reformer I use has to be good. I buy it from Harbor Freight. It has a strong smell when initially sprayed on rust. Typically the rusty areas turn black like they were painted. Leaves kind of a glossy appearance but like Robert said does not necessarily need sanding,
 

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N2, A rust reformer converts iron oxide, rust, to iron phosphate (depending on brand) but basically stop rust from continuing to form. Think a a piece of metal sitting in a field for years. It'll start with surface rust, then get thicker, and eventually the original iron is totally converted to rust and gone! A reformer stops this process of continued "rusting". Lot's of chemical reactions involved and even electrical! Once dried, I primer directly over it without sanding the reformer... a light sanding on the rusted surface will flatten things out!... and maybe (??) wet sand the primer. A reformer can also be used if you have "pitting" in your sheet metal parts. When dry, add some body filler, sand, prime, and top coat.

AS far as a top coat/show room finish on the undercoat, don't know. I used it purely for protection against battery acid. Bob
So body fillers like plastic bondo will stick to the rust reformer? Sorry gabby not trying to hyjack or derail your thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
No problem Robert. I personally have not tried it. I am only making a assumption that if paint will adhere to rust reformer that bondo also will.

You challenged me. Now I will need to try it. The 316K fender deck has now become a test part. I can put a thin coat across the area under the deck decal. Bondo under the decal and bed liner on the foot rest.
 

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N2, Yup, not an issue with plastic body fillers. I've had good luck with "Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty". It comes in a tube and comes out like a thick primer. Apply, scrape flush, and let dry. A ight sanding and maybe a 2nd light coat and it'll be flat and blend in. Then put whatever primer and top over it.

It should work, but no guarantees! Mixing rust reformer brand "A" with filler brand "B" and paint or bed liner brand "C" may or may not be compatible... I don't know! DO BE CAUTIOUS with the bed liner you choose! I had a '78 pickup with a spray in bed liner...no idea of manufacturer... and it was great until it got wet, then 'slicker than snot'. I also had an '88 with a Linex liner, no problems wet or dry. Bob
 
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Were sheet metal parts on a 1978 316K painted or powder coated?
 

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I believe John Deere did not start powder coating until the mid to late 80’s. Assuming you were grinding on the rusty fender pan and the paint was not chipping and peeling away like powder coat typically does I’d say it’s safe to assume the 316k was painted.
 

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Here is a quote from green tractor talk forum. Thread can be seen here. Repainting/Restoring a JD 318 (daily driver)

“ Quote “

318 Paint

Guy's,

John Deere stopped using paint on the 318's in 1987. They started using powdercoat on the 318's in 1988 and although through 1992 powder coat could "lift" and come off it was the year 1988 that seemed to be most dreadfull whether it was from improperly prepped metal or whatever.

I have painted several tractors over the years both LGT's and many JD 2 cylinder farm tractors. Some of the LGT's I used rattle cans with great success. I always used JD by brand. Never had to worry about color match. When using a big gun to spray I still depended on JD for all paint supplies from primer to thinner to color and never had an end result I wasn't happy with. I also think there is a lot to be said about not mixing brands too.

Gary H.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I sanded and sprayed rust reformer on inside of console.
  • Replaced the two-wire connector housing. Wire brushed spades and sprayed with cleaner.
  • There is a clamp that retains the harness that is mounted between the battery tray and console. Mounted but needs to be moved to front hole. I can do that now after rerouting harness in front of steering column.
  • Hood latch bracket is painted and hanging to dry. Install tomorrow.
  • Need to loosen positve post cable to route it behind the battery tray.
  • These tasks will finish work needed inside the console
Removed the fender deck again.
  • It will be cleaned and painted before reinstalling. Flipped it over. A fair amount of rust needs to be wire brushed and painted on underside also.
  • Rear axle/transmission very dirty, oily. Will be pressure washed.
  • Plan on painting the rest of the exterior of the frame.
  • The sight gauge breather that I thought was missing is there but needs hose replaced. Hose is brittle and cracks easily.
  • There is a fuel filter in rear of frame? Don't know why it was put there. Will remove the filter and replace fuel line.
  • Will fabricate and replace tail light wiring harness.
  • I still have brakes to repair but will wait until 300 frame is void of engine. Easier to maneuver it without the engine.
 

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I sanded and sprayed rust reformer on inside of console.
  • Replaced the two-wire connector housing. Wire brushed spades and sprayed with cleaner.
  • There is a clamp that retains the harness that is mounted between the battery tray and console. Mounted but needs to be moved to front hole. I can do that now after rerouting harness in front of steering column.
  • Hood latch bracket is painted and hanging to dry. Install tomorrow.
  • Need to loosen positve post cable to route it behind the battery tray.
  • These tasks will finish work needed inside the console
Removed the fender deck again.
  • It will be cleaned and painted before reinstalling. Flipped it over. A fair amount of rust needs to be wire brushed and painted on underside also.
  • Rear axle/transmission very dirty, oily. Will be pressure washed.
  • Plan on painting the rest of the exterior of the frame.
  • The sight gauge breather that I thought was missing is there but needs hose replaced. Hose is brittle and cracks easily.
  • There is a fuel filter in rear of frame? Don't know why it was put there. Will remove the filter and replace fuel line.
  • Will fabricate and replace tail light wiring harness.
  • I still have brakes to repair but will wait until 300 frame is void of engine. Easier to maneuver it without the engine.
Gabby, the fuel filter was probably installed by the PO, especially if he did away with the little screen that was on the fuel shut off valve at the bottom of the tank. I do that with all my tractors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I do not want to do anything to damage the shutoff valve because it is NLA from Deere. Problem is where the filter is located. Just seems to me I would have to remove the fender deck and lift the rear of the fuel tank to change the filter. I don't have an issue with the filter, just what is required to service it.

Problem with locating it up near the engine in lower part of frame you would need to drop the mower deck to service the filter. I will have to flip a coin.
 

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I do not want to do anything to damage the shutoff valve because it is NLA from Deere. Problem is where the filter is located. Just seems to me I would have to remove the fender deck and lift the rear of the fuel tank to change the filter. I don't have an issue with the filter, just what is required to service it.

Problem with locating it up near the engine in lower part of frame you would need to drop the mower deck to service the filter. I will have to flip a coin.
I usually install mine pretty close to the shutoff, maybe 3-4 inches from it. I find it's easier to check and change them when they are located in the rear. I spin the shutoff to where it faces the rear, install a short hose then the filter, then I loop it towards the left frame rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Didn't get as much done on the 316K today as I wanted but did get a good start on the rear of the tractor under the fuel tank.

First more photos from front of tractor.
  • A couple of photos of inside lower flange and inside of console. The sides I sanded as much as I could with 240 grit sandpaper; flange I cleaned as well as I could with a small wire brush. Then blew it out with compressed air and sprayed with rust reformer.
    Motor vehicle Wood Terrestrial plant Gas Paint
    Green Motor vehicle Bumper Wood Automotive exterior

  • I bolted in the battery box and the spreader bracket with the hood latch.
  • Set a battery in tray. Looks good. I may need to remove battery tray to finish routing battery cables. No photo of finished area. Will get one tomorrow.
  • I did connect the battery cables to the battery and tested tail lights. All is well.
 

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Hi Gabby,
Good to see that your trip here to Pennsylvania went well. I see in the picture of your 300 parts tractor that it has the left side extra hydraulic lines. If you aren't going to be using them, would you be willing to sell the left side lines and accompanying tee fits. My 300 doesn't have them and I want to put hydraulic power angle on my front blade. Ler me know. Thank you for your time. Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Next, removed the fender deck and fuel tank, what a mess.
  • First photo is the wiring to rear of tractor. Yellow wire is tail lights and red is the seat safety switch.
  • I plan on replacing bulbs/light housings with LED lights. I know they are not original but are much brighter for when I am on the street with it.
  • Will also need to install a switch and wiring/connector to auxiliary connector at the light switch. This will be for pull behind sprayer and/or rear spot light.
  • 2nd/3rd photos show a major mess under the transmission cover. Transmission check valves were almost completely covered with ? material. Again I blew off as much as I could with compressed air before I pressure wash.
  • Last photo shows the check valves. Removed both. Left side I was able to get the button to work freely. Right side is frozen in place and needs some work. I had a spare valve so I just replaced the frozen valve. Frozen valve is soaking in a bucket of paint thinner.
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  • Fuel filter was zip tied to top of the rear plate. The 300 I am using as parts tractor has rear coupler mounting bracket using these holes. Not sure how I will proceed with this are but do know new fuel line will be installed.
  • Rear site gauge breather was laying down inside the frame. Appears to be in usable condition. Hoses are brittle and need replacing.
    Kitchen appliance Cookware and bakeware Gas Motor vehicle Handle
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Hello Brian. It was nice meeting you. I am multitasking between tractor and loader I got from you and the 316K I picked up in Chicago on the way home. Currently waiting for some parts for the loader and I have pressure washed the 318 but no engine work on it yet.

How soon do you need the parts?

I will have quite a few items I will want to get rid of after I get the 316K running. I may move the parts you are asking about. Hoping to be done in a couple of weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Sorry Brian. I was confused. Reread your post. Are you talking about the H2 lines from the control valve to the front of the tractor? Does your 300 have H2 valve?

I need to check part numbers. I have 3-4 sets of 317 H2 valves and lines. There are members who say they are the same as 316K. I need to check it out. May have something I can send you now.
 

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No problem on the confusion. Yes, my tractor has the H2 valve and the lines on the right side for the up and down of the plow. I need the lines and the tees at the valve for the left side of the tractor to be able to use the power angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
According to parts catalog AM37071 (upper left) and AM37072 (lower left) are interchangeable between 317 and 300 with s/n over 55001. My 300 is a 1977 (s/n C300F075009M). What is your tractor s/n?
 
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