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Freeing rusted pins

586 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  tmac58star
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I just picked up a C43(?) snow plow for my 210 today. It was a good deal, but it has one, well, two problems and they're both the spring pins that hold it to the front of the tractor.

Both pins seam to have been rusted to the housings. Won't even spin. They're currently soaking in PB Blaster, but I was wondering if anybody else has any ideas on freeing them? The springs in them are toast, so I'll be replacing those at least.

Just FYI, I don't have a torch of any kind, though I do have a welder and consider myself to be pretty decent with it.

Look like they came off the titanic, don't they. I was thinking that if worse comes to worst, I can just cut off the housings and use bolts or pins instead, though I'd like to salvage the spring pins if possible.




The 210 on the trailer here is a parts donor for the one I currently have that's running.

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Those don't look like they could easily be made serviceable. You could cut off the housings and weld on new spring latches since you have the ability to weld. Something like this:

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Those don't look like they could easily be made serviceable. You could cut off the housings and weld on new spring latches since you have the ability to weld. Something like this:

View attachment 292326
Thats the road I was thinking of taking. It does seem like the simpler way to go. Time to break out the angle grinder then.
Best way to get the roll pin out is drill it.
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I’d just smack the pin back and forth with a BFH until it’s freed up.
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Id try soaking it with PB and tapping it with a hammer every so often. I don’t know if it’s something you need to get done ASAP but it you can let it soak, tap it with a hammer every so often over a couple days, I bet they would break free.
Alternatively, it you could somehow get them to soak in either Vinegar or Evapo-Rust overnight, you most assuredly would get them out.
if I was going that route It’d probably wrap them in a soaked shop towel that was wrapped in plastic wrap or somehow get a ziplock baggie full of Evapo-Rust around them.
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As deadeye mentions another interesting approach would be electrolysis. Maybe someone with experience doing it could recommend the procedure.
That was a very diplomatic comment. :D
Those don't look like they could easily be made serviceable.
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Even if you drilled out the roll pin and bashed out the pin those springs look like toast to me. I have no idea if a new spring could be inserted through the roll pin slot or perhaps threaded in through the outer hole. Without the springs seems to me you're not much further ahead than just using nuts and bolts.

I've seen the weld on latches for as low as $7 a piece. Seems to me replacement would be cheap, take way less time and have a better end result.

And army, thanks for the comment; not an area I often excel in. 😆
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Huh, I hadn’t thought of getting a spring in there but thinking about it now leads me to thinking it should be able thread into the hole on the outside where the pin comes out.
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The other side of that bell housing is actually open to slip the pin in. No threading required.

However, I think I'll just cut the pins out and weld on new spring pins. It's low priority right now though, so I won't get to it till later this summer.
A photon torpedo would work too. The negative is they haven't been invented yet.
Air hammer
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Cut them off and replace. They are toast. Even if you free them up they look so weak that they would snap off if you looked at them too hard.
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Ditto, wouldn't waste time or effort on those.
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Is the deck better on that one?
:LOL:
Is the deck better on that one?
:LOL:
Thats where I got that "other one".
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I ended up cutting them off. I probably COULD have saved them, but it would have been more work than they were worth.


I went and ordered some new pins through amazon.
Amazon.com: Buyers Products B2598LP Spring Latch Assembly : Automotive

Till they get here, I went ahead and used some 5/8" bolts to mount it on the 210, just to see how it would look.
Don't have the lift linkage parts, though I think I can recreate them with the stuff I have in the barn.


Next up, freeing the angulation pin. At least its frozen UP so I can move the blade angle, but I'll have to take the whole thing apart to free it.
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You suck :p. Just kidding but seriously did you even smack oy a couple of times at least with some type pf penetrant? Kroil, atf/acetone, pb blaster etc???
You suck :p. Just kidding but seriously did you even smack oy a couple of times at least with some type pf penetrant? Kroil, atf/acetone, pb blaster etc???
Does a 5 lb hammer with PB Blaster every day for a week count?
If it makes you feel better, I cut them flush with the frame, so it was mostly weld that got cut.
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