[deereguy140]

I'm having problems removing the mower deck (48C) PTO drive shaft from the transmission output shaft on an X475 tractor. The collar on the yoke will only move about 1/8". Any tips or tricks to this. Thanks.

 

[deereguy140]

I'm having problems removing the mower deck (48C) PTO drive shaft from the transmission output shaft on an X475 tractor. The collar on the yoke will only move about 1/8". Any tips or tricks to this. Thanks.

 

[deereguy140]

I'm having problems removing the mower deck (48C) PTO drive shaft from the transmission output shaft on an X475 tractor. The collar on the yoke will only move about 1/8". Any tips or tricks to this. Thanks.

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Joe - Try squirting it down with PB-Blaster., Then have a helper hold pressure on collar in the off direction , while you lightly tap collar forward with a flat punch / hammer . They often get rust around the balls and collar when they are not exorcized frequently ; or lack of lube. This always works for me , then I clean / lube real good when I get it un hooked .

Or if you don't have a helper ; you can hold the pressure on it while using a pry bar on the collar . Usually once you get it over its' initial sticking point , it will go the rest of the way pretty handley .

Hope that helps . Dave

 

[deereguy140]

Dave,

Thanks for the help. I got it off with the help of carb cleaner, as it was full of debris.

 

[hec_in_omaha]

Howdy all,

I have a 1978 JD 210 a recently acquired. I have a 200' by 45' gravel drive way that I need to maintain. Could this be done using a front blade? Or is a 43C Center Blade the way to go. I will be mostly smoothing out the drive and fill in ruts left by heavy rains.

Thanks in advance!

Hec

 

[KB]

the 54c is way easier to use for that job, then a 54 front mount blade on my 140. the 43 front mount doesn't have down pressure, so it may be easier to use then the 54 on a hydrostatic

 

[sreynolds]

I recently saw one for the first time.........live and in person I mean.

At a county fair, this fellow had this collection of late 70's early 80's vintage tractors. One of the 200's was restored to **mint** and it had a center mount blade.

He told me the blade is worth quite a bit more than the tractor.

You would be in luck if you have a pan head HD motorcycle in which you could trade for a center mount blade.

 

[dr_evil]

WOW.... that's a w-i-d-e driveway! A frt mounted blade is just about worthless trying to grade hard packed gravel. The center mounted blade is a MUCH better tool for the job. When was the last time you saw someone with a road grader with a frt mounted blade try to do finish grading work?

I lived in a house 25 yrs ago that had a quarter mile long crushed rock drive. It saw a LOT of loaded tandem axle truck traffic, had two large pot holes right where it turned coming into the barnyard. Took me 2-3 hours but I was able to use my home-made belly blade to fill and pack rock & dirt into those holes and grade the whole drive down nice and smooth and it would stay that way for a year.

Only other suggestion would be to try one of these DR power graders, http://www.drpower.com/power-equipment/power-graders/ I'm not sure there's $1200+ worth of machine there.

 

[hec_in_omaha]

Thanks guys for the responses. I currently use a Ford 8N with a 6 ft back blade. I am down sizing and would like to get rid of the Ol Ford. Before I do I want to make sure I can get all the chores done with the 210.

Hec

 

[sreynolds]

I have reverted to the use of the 212 in place of the 400 hydro. The 212 will do everything the much more complex 400 will......and use tons less fuel too!!!

Do you have the blade or are you planning to locate one?`

 

[sashiery]

I've got that same combination. I prefer to use a rear blade but the front blade will do the job. You have to take your time and get to work on the drive shortly after a rain. You need wheel weights, and chains if you have turf tires. It's also better if you have smaller-grade gravel instead of the 2 inch plus I see some places.

 

[hec_in_omaha]

Scott,

Haven't found one yet. Just looking at options.

Stephen,

I have turf tires and weights, I use 3/4" crushed lime for the driveway.

Hec

 

[hec_in_omaha]

Scott,

Well tonight I won a Model 43C on EBay. It looks like its in decent shape. It is missing the rear mounting brackets though. The seller is including a sketch with dimensions so that I can fab up a set. After searching WFM and hearing the comments on this thread from others, the center blade seemed to be the way to go for maintaining the gravel drive. I do have a 43 front snow blade Model UO43F, but I didn't think it would work very well in the gravel. The center blade makes sense. If anyone out there has a set of rear brackets they want to part with please email me.

Here is a pic of the Model 43C


Hec

 

[bigfoot_brent]

Hector
Now that you have the blade we will be expecting pictures of it working in action! I think a few site sponsors on here have the mounting brackets that you need.

 

[geb63619]

Hector the mounting hardware can be bought from Hapco Parts

Click Here to See

 

[hec_in_omaha]

Gary,

Thanks a million for the parts lead! The price is reasonable too. I will order them today!

Thanks and I will post pics once it's cleaned up and mounted.

Hec

 

[KB]

I have a set of the hapco ones, they are nice.

Jim's lawn and garden another sponsor on the top of the page also lists them.

 

[sreynolds]

just a side note;

Nice find!! I could see one of my 212's outfitted with one of these.

Odd that when we purchase accessories like these you almost never receive ALL the parts.

It has been five months now for me locate all the components to operate a 31 tiller. It's sorta like a scavenger hunt. All part of the fun no less.

 

[hec_in_omaha]

Scott,

Yeah the hunting down of parts is half the fun. I don't think I did too bad. $228 for the blade. I hear they go for $400 sometimes. That's nutz. But if it does what I need it to do it was money well spent in my mind. What are ya needing for your model 31 tiller?

Hec