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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 322 that I assume is one of the last years of production, only way I can tell is that it has the worthless electric choke. Someone before me "restored" the tractor and probably destroyed the serial number tag like they did the rest of the tractor. I've got a 47 blower mounted on the the tractor and anything over 3" of snow it can't handle. Tractor will pretty much bog down and stall out if I don't crawl along at a snails pace. I checked the throttle adjustment according to the service manual and everything checked out, but it still seems like its lacking in the rpm department. I have noticed that from an idle I can move the throttle lever about halfway through the range before it will do anything... Today I was cleaning up some drifts and it would barley throw the snow past the blower housing, and as soon as it would reach the deeper snow it would bog down and plug up. What is the rpm and wot supposed to be? Also how does one go about adjusting the electric clutch? it seems to engage fine, but I'd like to to check it.. For as much as the 322 and 47 blower are bragged about I can honestly say I'm not all that impressed with either. I've seen a Chinese walk behind snowblower throw more snow than this 47. I've got 800 feet of driveway to maintain, and it shouldn't be the struggle its been.
 

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Well start with a compression check, then you may need to do leak down test. When were the valves last adjusted on the engine?

Here is what manual (TM1591) for the 322 says if engine does not get full power:

E ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL POWER
• Adjust idle mixture screw: GO TO Å
• Check and adjust idle speeds: GO TO Ö
• Test ignition spark and spark plugs: GO TO 1Ô
• Test fuel transfer pump: GO TO Õ
• Check muffler for restriction or plugged condition.
• Test compression pressure: GO TO [email protected]
• Check and adjust valve clearance: See Engine CTM12.

NOTE: Check engine speeds using JT05719 Hand-Held Digital Tachometer. Read rpm at front universal joint of drive shaft or flywheel.
Remove rubber plug from flywheel viewing hole.
Hold throttle plate indicator (A) against stop screw (B). Turn screw (B) until slow idle is 1350 ±50 rpm.
Hold governor lever against fast idle stop bolt (C). Fast idle should be 3450 ±50 rpm.
If fast idle rpm is not correct, loosen nut (D) and turn bolt (C) until fast idle speed is correct. Tighten nut (D)
 

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Only the earliest tractors had the manual choke, and even my 1988 322 had been converted to the auto choke -- my 1992 came with it of course. The auto choke never gave me any grief, but I kept it adjusted and free to move as shown in the CTM12 and the TM1591 (an also my tractors were in a less frigid climate being in the Pacific Northwest...)

Most likely you have a bad coil...it it amazing how smoothly these little engines run on only two cylinders. The list that Russ gives above is the right place to start, and the RPM values are the correct ones for this engine. Do you have the TM1591 and the CTM12 manuals? Here are some excerpts that may help with the carburetor and choke adjustments....
View attachment 322 carbutetor from Tm1591.pdf

carburetor cleaning cautions.jpg

View attachment Carburetor info for 322.pdf

Chuck
 

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Yeah, do a spark test and see if all your coils/plugs are firing. My 322 puts a nice fat spark on the front plug first crack out of the box, then it disappears...so mine runs on 2 cylinders. I have a bad pickup coil under the flywheel cover that needs to be replaced and is on the repair list. I only start it occasionally to charge the battery and move it around to do other maintenance like change the oil/filter. Also check your oil dipstick for signs of gas...if you've lost spark on one cylinder, it's gasoline from the carb will wind up in the crankcase...not good. Good luck with your 322.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies, I'll have to check out those items next time I'm around the tractor. Its does seems to take an awful long time to start it cold. It will just crank for a good 10 seconds or more, before it attempts to fire. The electric choke likes to stay on way longer than I think it needs to, but after a few minutes of running it seems to lean itself out as it warms up. Its just been a problem child the entire time I've had it, I can see now why the guy was selling it....

Chuckv I do not have a copy of either of those manuals. Every time I see one for sale I miss it by a day or so. I usually just screen shot pictures of the manuals I happened to come across online in various searches.
 

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Check your spark plug wires too. My car was hard to start when warm, missed on acceleration, and didn't have a lot of power. I went through new plugs, injectors, filters, cleaned out the EGR(did need that done though), and nothing changed. In exasperation, I bought a new set of coils, which happened to come with a set of wires. I thought what the heck and just replaced the wires - brand new car! I didn't even install the new coils. It was that simple and of course I regretted not taking the easy path first. Give it a try if you haven't already (didn't see above if you had so apologies if you've already changed them)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I messed with the tractor today some. I pulled the plugs and checked for spark at each one. The spark was weak at best and was all over the place. From what I could tell it was running on all 3 but the plug wire to what I assume is number one (cylinder right behind the coil bank) was pretty much toast. I robbed a coil off my other 322 to see if it made any difference and it made a slight difference, but it still bogs way down. All three coils looks questionable, along withe the wires. I'd like to replace all 3 coils and plugs, is there a place other than the dealer to get these parts? What are you guys running for spark plugs, factor plugs or something different? I don't know how good my compression tester is, but I'll give that a check tomorrow. and see where its at.
 

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Try the auction site for parts...caveat emptor though, some good, some sketchy. Get a hold of a copy of the SM...it has all the tests in it for all the electrical components.
 

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Are the plug wires separate from the coil? (Not familiar with the gas Yanmars although I would very much like one. I've become a fan of gas engines, especially BIG ones : ) If so, you could just borrow any old plug wires to check. If not, then it would have to be coil incl. wires.
 

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Interesting thread, here are a few comments based on my experience.

- Throttle response on 322 is not great. This is due to the carb not having an accelerator pump. I've worked on 3 of these machines and they all had basically no response up to half throttle. At full throttle, a correctly functioning engine does not bog down...even under high load.
- Plug wires can be replaced without replacing the coil. Just remove the heatshrink at top of the coal, then rotate the wire and pull out. The pin in the coil is a threaded post. When installing new wires, thread them in and put new heatshrink.
- I've installed brand new carburetors on these tractors with auto-choke. The choke works, but stays on way to long in my opinion.

Good luck, when running properly these are great machines.
 

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I got my 322 about 2 years ago and it ran poorly..."crappy" would be a more correct term! Rough idle, no response, little power. I did find that letting the engine warm helped somewhat, but something still wrong.

A trip to my dealer for some gaskets and a stop at NAPA for a bucket of carb cleaner and I was ready! I pulled the carb & dismantled it and placed all metal parts in carb cleaner for about 2 days. I removed them, sprayed with part & brake cleaner and blew out/off with compressed air. The small nozzle on compressed air cans worked perfectly to stick into the small passages. NEVER use any metal objects to clean the passages! A small nick in the brass orifices will totally ruin fuel flow! Float, needle valve & seat looked good so I started reassembling. Float level looked good so I completed the assembly. I fired it up, warmed for about 3 minutes, and it's a completely different animal now...and I mean animal!! It now runs great.

I can't comment on throttle lever response. I have 3 positions for my throttle lever: 1. about 1/3 for starting, warming, and engaging pto, 2.WOT for whatever I'm doing after warming, and 3. Idle for shutting down. When a load is applied, I can't detect and difference in rpm, just a different engine sound from it working harder .... I LIKE it!

I believe soaking the carb in cleaner makes a/THE difference. The stuff you get in spray cans is OK for degunking, but you need to soak for a thorough cleaning. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll have to pull the carb and let it soak for a few days. The thing runs decent and throttled up ok it just had no power up top. I still havent done a compression test, but maybe I can try it today. According to the guy I bought it from it only had 800+ hours on it... But I don't believe that for a second, the wear thats in the less obvious places would indicate far more than the hours claimed.
 

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Matt, I wouldn't get concerned about hours. The Yanmar is good for around 9000!

When you pull carb & soak, check valve lifter clearance. They could have loosened, not opening fully, and your not get full fuel flow. Just a thought while you're down. Bob
 
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