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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently picked up a 420 GT which had fire damage. Not as bad as it looked but once I got it home and started looking it over I decided it was too far gone. The killer to me being the differential case having a hole in it under the hitch area. It does have a 60' deck that I will clean up and put on the market. Unless I find another rebuildable 420 before it sells. Guess I'm back in the parts business again. I'll clean up what's salvageable and put it on Ebay. I didn't pay all that much so I will be able to hole the prices down. Hopefully to help you 420 guys out.
 
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I bought a 317 for the new deck, came with a fire damaged 316. Parted it out, was able to resurrect that deck as well as well as the engine and trans which are a direct fit for my 318.

Good luck with the part out! Impact gun and air hammer were indispensable!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

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Jetjoe,

Was the differential case hole the result of using the tapped bolt bosses in tension? The castings can't take that for sure...here is a picture of a really bad hole pulled out of such a casting.

broken differential housing.jpg


Good luck on parting out this tractor -- vehicle fires are pretty devastating, but many parts should be salvageable.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Jetjoe,

Was the differential case hole the result of using the tapped bolt bosses in tension? The castings can't take that for sure...here is a picture of a really bad hole pulled out of such a casting.

View attachment 268668

Good luck on parting out this tractor -- vehicle fires are pretty devastating, but many parts should be salvageable.

Chuck
I believe the hole was from handling after the fire as the break is more in that order. Not melted. The fire was at the rear of the tractor from the operator station back but did melt the hood. I never really thought it was repairable but one can always hope. If a rear axle could be found for a decent price I would likely take it on. Only one shows up right now but $750 bucks would be a bad starting point for a rebuild. The engine is a consumable to me and I wouldn't expect it to be in good condition. Sheet metal and a hood is easy to come by. Paint is always worth the effort. And I have all the hydraulics already. I'll keep looking for a decent 420 and hopefully I'll have plenty of spares when it comes my way.

Better be careful here. I might talk myself into it.

By the way, I did have a 318 with a hole very similar to the one in the photo. But the rear end was only $150 bucks!
 

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That reminds me of a 'fire damaged' non-running BMW I looked at years ago and was seriously considering buying it until I opened the trunk and found a broken oil pan (they are cast aluminum). The car had a good oil pan on it. So, did someone crash the pan and toast the engine, then have a mysterious fire for insurance loss? Buying non-running stuff is a gamble at best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That reminds me of a 'fire damaged' non-running BMW I looked at years ago and was seriously considering buying it until I opened the trunk and found a broken oil pan (they are cast aluminum). The car had a good oil pan on it. So, did someone crash the pan and toast the engine, then have a mysterious fire for insurance loss? Buying non-running stuff is a gamble at best.
Tom. I knew exactly what this was before I bought it. But for what I paid it was well worth it. For a person who likes to do this sort of thing. One part could easily return my investment If I cared about that. These tractors are so simple in design and construction that almost any non-running machine can easily be returned to service. As long as there are folks out there that haven't come down with "Green Fever" to supply us with parts. And we stay away from the John Deere parts counter.

I don't know if it would be correct to keep referring to some of these machines as a John Deere product. One of the aircraft I rebuilt could not be registered with the FAA due to the previous owner not wanting his mistake to ever fly again. (Legal reasons he claimed. No FAA bill of sale, no aircraft) But the FAA had at the time a way to get around that with a process they referred to as "built from spare parts". The aircraft had to be assembled from parts that matched the serial number series of the whatever model you were trying to return to service. Once assembled and test flown, you would receive a standard Airworthiness Certificate and Registration. This was a very popular option amongst warbird owners and many of those we see in airshows were assemble in that way. From spare parts.

My point is, many of these older tractors are pretty much the same. Over the years so many parts have been changed the serial number becomes meaningless. Repowers come to mind. They can hardly be called a 317,318, or whatever. Even the serial tag which is fixed to a part that is very easy to replace, The tower, has possibly been changed not necessarily to cheat a buyer but for the nicer paint.

So, my thinking is more like, "if it ran before, it will run again". Even this 420 can be made into a good machine. Its just a matter of how much cash and ambition is required. Some of these go for over four grand. (Asking price) If that's a good number, I would have a lot of value to work with. I'm sure you can tell it will be tough for me to sell this machine off in parts.

Advertising these modified machines as a specific model really only gives the buyer an idea of the size. Everything but the green may have come from some other source along the way. My present 317 surely fits into the category. And it seems, at least on these pages, that a repowered machine is a plus. That would depend on how it was done.

So I guess I disagree with your gamble statement a little. The "non-running" part usually returns dividends. In fact, I wouldn't consider buying a good running machine. I already have a too many of those.
 

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I 'gambled' on the 318 I bought in non-running condition. I know running ones around here typically start at $1200, I paid $600 for my gamble.I did not see anything seriously wrong with it and it really did not take much to make it run, mostly a bunch of little stuff. It had sat unused for 6 years.
 
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I need a good cheap 420 hood if you start parting it and the hood is in decent shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I need a good cheap 420 hood if you start parting it and the hood is in decent shape.
Well you wouldn't want this hood. It's a bit scorched! Guess I better order what's out there before you do. If I decide to rebuild it.

I started tearing it down today and I can't believe the difference in these from a 300 series. I had a 400 for a short time but never really got into it. At least with the gapping hole in the bottom of the case there's no oil to mess with. And of all things, the PTO seems to be in working order. Amazing!
 

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I'm in no hurry. I had found a couple of ok deals but shipping always made the deal out of my willingness to have a nice hood. My hood is all crunched up front. About the best thing I could try to do with my hood is make it look like a 110/112/120/140 hood. Lights are completely gone even the light housing. It is just a big gap in the front where the lights use to be. Either I'll find one eventually or if/when I get this thing going I'll do the 140 look alike to this tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Without seeing your hood, they are very repairable. Not all that hard once you get the hang of working with fiberglass. I've done several. Two summers ago I took on a boat project. A nineteen foot fiberglass. To make a long story short, I ended up taking the interior right down to the bottom. New spars and keels. The hard part was the rear transom. It was an interesting experience. If your hood is repairable its lot cheaper than what's available on Ebay.
 
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I was looking for the thumbs up emote to copy and past to a forum that does not have the thumbs up emote and see you replies Jetjoe. the whole housing for the lights are gone and the hood is crunched back a bit past where the lights use to be. I'm sure I could repair it but I'd still need to whole light housing. If I'm doing that much fiberglass work on the little hood I'd rather just make it look how I like it to any way. Like a 4020, 140 etc etc. (y)

Ok I'll go snap a quick pic and post back but no judging ok. I still have some honey comb and bees wax all over the hood.
 

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Ok it's official I definitely have a deere infatuation that is problematic. I just counted my herd and I have 14 back there. OMG it's worse than I thought. o_O

Ok I'll edit this post with pics of the 420 hood.

Any one notice the Lincoln Weldnpower? I got that for the motor to use in one of the many dead deeres and to some day make the generator/welder a quick attachment for the herd. That's one of the get around to its that keeps slipping away from me as I get older and older day by day.

268693
268694
 

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Before anyone asks the list is as follows and i dont consider this bragging as most of them are non running junkers any how. However they all have potential as future runners or part donors for other tractors in the herd.

3x '69 140 h3 two of those are patios
1x '74 140 h1
2x 316 Onan
1x '75 214
1x 420
1x 318
3 x 317
2x 300
oh and I forgot about the 314 and F935 on the side, that actually makes it 16 in the herd.
 

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Oh my! On both counts...have you considered a new thread called "Buggered Hoods"? Might be as interesting as the Ugly Seat thread...no offense intended. I don't suppose the 400-series hoods are the same size as the 300-series? I've seen a 300 hood on CL down here for like $60.
 

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That's too funny tmac and quite possibly a great idea. This one is buggered in more than one way :)

400 series hoods are longer as they are wider. So no a 300's would not work. I could butcher one up and strech it out but that is beyond my pay grade ;) ;)

Come to think if it that would make for some interesting wasp and hornets nest hoods as well. Good idea. Your idea you start it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok it's official I definitely have a deere infatuation that is problematic. I just counted my herd and I have 14 back there. OMG it's worse than I thought. o_O

Ok I'll edit this post with pics of the 420 hood.

Any one notice the Lincoln Weldnpower? I got that for the motor to use in one of the many dead deeres and to some day make the generator/welder a quick attachment for the herd. That's one of the get around to its that keeps slipping away from me as I get older and older day by day.

View attachment 268693 View attachment 268694
Yep! A definite Deere infestation here. You best call Joe the Deere exterminator to help you get that under control.
 

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Come to think if it that would make for some interesting wasp and hornets nest hoods as well. Good idea. Your idea you start it...
I'll pass, I don't go near fiberglass resin and cloth unless beaten...too itchy for me.
 

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killer to me being the differential case having a hole in it under the hitch area.
It’s not too hard to mod a 316-332 diff case to take the 2 speed and diff lock. See my thread. The machinist charged me 150$ to bore the holes for the two shafts and seals. The rest I did myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It’s not too hard to mod a 316-332 diff case to take the 2 speed and diff lock. See my thread. The machinist charged me 150$ to bore the holes for the two shafts and seals. The rest I did myself.
Thanks for the info. Nice write up. Its amazing what one can learn on this site. This opens up a few more options and it's looking more like I'll rebuild it vs parting.
 
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