Heavy Duty Air Cleaner question
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Hi Josh. I don't believe Kohler ever offered it, it was an adaptation of a large air cleaner to JD's tractor, so JD engineered the adapting parts (mounts, hose, carb adapter) to make it fit.
Kent
Kent
Hello Dan. Glad to see that you've opened a topic on your LT133 here from the general forum.
What you had said was that your tractor would crank the engine with the PTO engaged. Is that with the seat switch closed (operator on seat) or open; or both?
We also need to know which of the four electrical versions of the LT133 you have. They are:
3A alternator, no RIO.
3A alternator, with RIO
15A alternator, 3-position key switch (off-on-start)
15A alternator, 4-position key switch (adds a lights-on position).
The 15A version has a rectifier/voltage regulator on the plastic engine shroud. The 3A has no regulator, and a plastic cover in the shroud. Give us the serial number on the tractor.
As I said earlier, the spark coil is a magneto type, with a ground "kill" lead. That lead is a white wire in the engine connector in all versions. Disconnect the connector, configure the tractor to run (PTO off, brake down and locked, ignition ON, transmission not in reverse) and check that the lead in the harness is NOT grounded.
You can crank the engine with that connector disconnected, but disconnect the spark plug first so that the engine does not run. Check for spark with a grounded plug or grounded spark tester. If you get spark while cranking, your coil should be good.
What you had said was that your tractor would crank the engine with the PTO engaged. Is that with the seat switch closed (operator on seat) or open; or both?
We also need to know which of the four electrical versions of the LT133 you have. They are:
3A alternator, no RIO.
3A alternator, with RIO
15A alternator, 3-position key switch (off-on-start)
15A alternator, 4-position key switch (adds a lights-on position).
The 15A version has a rectifier/voltage regulator on the plastic engine shroud. The 3A has no regulator, and a plastic cover in the shroud. Give us the serial number on the tractor.
As I said earlier, the spark coil is a magneto type, with a ground "kill" lead. That lead is a white wire in the engine connector in all versions. Disconnect the connector, configure the tractor to run (PTO off, brake down and locked, ignition ON, transmission not in reverse) and check that the lead in the harness is NOT grounded.
You can crank the engine with that connector disconnected, but disconnect the spark plug first so that the engine does not run. Check for spark with a grounded plug or grounded spark tester. If you get spark while cranking, your coil should be good.
Hank form a earlier post you mentioned a S/N break. The only JD number I can get is from the tag in back which is part worn, is MOL133A062820 it has the Kohler engine CV13S Spec 21525 S/N 2901822771 I do have the RIO SW but not real sure as to the Amp rating on the system. Currently it runs like it had before . But Im not comfortable with how it stopped a few days ago something took it out. As far as key SW my lights go on /get brighter when its running I do not have a engine off/lights on feature
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Dan you serial number is 62820. That makes the coil for your engine part number M133919. My dealership has 2 in stock which leads me to believe they have a high failure rate. Price is about $60. Your tractor uses wiring harness AM123450 for about $120. Roger
Roger, Thank you for the info . I was not sure about the S/N since they did a plastic decal on the hitch part ,And most of it is worn. I sort of see the coil being a possible issue here. Reminds me of a old past repair on another unit. I might just run it the next time I mow to see how long before it drops out. It was being worked good last week and took about 20 min. For it to drop out.So I will try that and if it does go for a new coil its not a great price but well then not a bad one ether .It could be worse. I am confused as to why you listed a wire harness ?
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The only reason I added the wire harness is 3 different ones were used depending on the serial number. Some of the type of problems you are having happen because a PO has messed with the wiring system to "fix things". Roger
Dan, we're homing in on things. Your serial number is in the 1999 block, 45001-85000. Parts lists identify this block as 3A alternator and RIO.
As I said earlier, you can check the ignition module by disconnecting the 4-wire plug that goes from the harness into the engine. The white wire in that plug/jack is the ignition kill. Grounding that wire kills the spark, stopping the engine.
(note that the other three wires in that connector, black, yellow, and green, go to the alternator circuit).
If you get spark while cranking the engine with that connector disconnected, your coil is OK. Grounding that white wire going into the engine is the only easy way to stop a running engine.
To check out the chassis wiring and controls, connect an ohmmeter between the white wire in the harness and ground. That wire should be open-circuit when the engine should run (brake latched down, PTO off, transmission not in reverse, ignition switch on). It should go to ground when you engage the PTO or unlatch the brake pedal with no one on the seat, and go back open-circuit with the seat occupied.
Run these tests and let us know what you find.
As I said earlier, you can check the ignition module by disconnecting the 4-wire plug that goes from the harness into the engine. The white wire in that plug/jack is the ignition kill. Grounding that wire kills the spark, stopping the engine.
(note that the other three wires in that connector, black, yellow, and green, go to the alternator circuit).
If you get spark while cranking the engine with that connector disconnected, your coil is OK. Grounding that white wire going into the engine is the only easy way to stop a running engine.
To check out the chassis wiring and controls, connect an ohmmeter between the white wire in the harness and ground. That wire should be open-circuit when the engine should run (brake latched down, PTO off, transmission not in reverse, ignition switch on). It should go to ground when you engage the PTO or unlatch the brake pedal with no one on the seat, and go back open-circuit with the seat occupied.
Run these tests and let us know what you find.
Hank , I will do these test's they sound interesting. I still have a concern that the coil may create a open circuit after getting warm/hot and under load . But the these test sound like a very good idea to do.And would provide very good troubleshooting skills. I will keep this thread posted. With the findings.
Looks as though you're getting spark from the ignition module, and the interlocks are not inhibiting start/run.
I'll suggest that you take the flywheel shroud (the plastic piece) off. Inspect the small grounding wire for chafing/bare spots. As I've noted, anyplace that circuit is grounded will prevent ignition spark. Also check the plug wire for chafing. It should fit in the notch in the shroud, above the engine metal.
Check the air gap between the flywheel magnet and the ignition module pole pieces. Spec is .010 inch, with a +/- .002 tolerance. Easiest way to adjust is rotate the flywheel so the magnet is centered under the pole pieces, and loosen the screws. Put an .010 feeler under one end pole piece and tighten that end screw just enough to hold the pole. Do the same at the other end. Check the center pole gap, and recheck the two ends, tighten the screws, and recheck all three.
You can go about .001 tight, but don't go .001 loose.
I'll suggest that you take the flywheel shroud (the plastic piece) off. Inspect the small grounding wire for chafing/bare spots. As I've noted, anyplace that circuit is grounded will prevent ignition spark. Also check the plug wire for chafing. It should fit in the notch in the shroud, above the engine metal.
Check the air gap between the flywheel magnet and the ignition module pole pieces. Spec is .010 inch, with a +/- .002 tolerance. Easiest way to adjust is rotate the flywheel so the magnet is centered under the pole pieces, and loosen the screws. Put an .010 feeler under one end pole piece and tighten that end screw just enough to hold the pole. Do the same at the other end. Check the center pole gap, and recheck the two ends, tighten the screws, and recheck all three.
You can go about .001 tight, but don't go .001 loose.
I had time to remove the shroud and check the coil connections,along with the sparkplug wire everything looked like it should also checked the air gap. It matched Hanks suggestion for specs . I cleaned everything up with some fine scotch brite pads very lightly. Also checked any wire s I could see to be sure they were clean and a tight connection So Im still where I was other than it starts again but did not stop like before. Im still wondering about coil letting go when hot ?
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