Hi Bob - Ouch! Check the fuses. That's where I'd start. Do you have the tech manual for the 318? The TDC module may have been affected, since the battery light circuit goes through that unit. Chances are, the voltage regulator is toast, but maybe not. The circuit breaker may be fried. It's on the right side of the pedestal, under the green sheet metal. Disconnect the wires from the terminals and check the terminals for continuity (ohms). If you have none, then the circuit breaker is OK. If any ohms register, the circuit breaker blew. - Dave
Help !! Owner Inflicted Problem 318 Won't Start
Good Evening All,
I changed my oil today on my 318. I reinstalled the engine tin and reconnected the Reg/Rectifier. In my haste to beat an oncoming rain storm I accidently plugged one of the stator wires into the center pin of the Reg/Rectifier. I did not realize this at the time, and started the tractor to move it inside my garage. The battery light lit up but I did not think anything of it because I had been listening to the radio for a while. I shut the engine down. I went to start it a while later and every thing is dead no light no click when the key is turned on....nothing. This was when I realized my error. Could anyone tell me where to start looking for my problem.
Thanks Bob.
I changed my oil today on my 318. I reinstalled the engine tin and reconnected the Reg/Rectifier. In my haste to beat an oncoming rain storm I accidently plugged one of the stator wires into the center pin of the Reg/Rectifier. I did not realize this at the time, and started the tractor to move it inside my garage. The battery light lit up but I did not think anything of it because I had been listening to the radio for a while. I shut the engine down. I went to start it a while later and every thing is dead no light no click when the key is turned on....nothing. This was when I realized my error. Could anyone tell me where to start looking for my problem.
Thanks Bob.
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Hi Dave - Yeah Ouch is right. But I can't blame anybody but myself. I checked my fuses and they are fine. I do have the tech manual for the 318 however I do not have any electrical background whatsoever on these machines. I do have a meter and I know it works, But I don't know how to use it. It is about 20 yrs old and is an analog meter. I will check the circuit breaker tomorrow. It would make sense to me that the breaker would fry before the fuses would correct? as the fuses are further back in the wiring schematic. If that would be the case As you stated the voltage regulator may also be bad as well. I will let you know what I discover.
Thanks Bob
Thanks Bob
Circuit breaker should reset itself, thats what it does normally if there is a problem.
Does the battery have juice? That would be the first thing Id check. You may have just allowed a load that drained the battery.
FIx your wiring mis-hap first, then check the voltage at the battery.
If you have voltage (should be 12.6ish volts just sitting), check the other items.
If you dont, throw a charger on it and see what happens!
Since you have the manual, read thru it and see what it says about checking the regulator and stator. There are tests for both in there. Once you do that (if you even need to after checking the battery), you can move onto other things, like the TDC module.
Does the battery have juice? That would be the first thing Id check. You may have just allowed a load that drained the battery.
FIx your wiring mis-hap first, then check the voltage at the battery.
If you have voltage (should be 12.6ish volts just sitting), check the other items.
If you dont, throw a charger on it and see what happens!
Since you have the manual, read thru it and see what it says about checking the regulator and stator. There are tests for both in there. Once you do that (if you even need to after checking the battery), you can move onto other things, like the TDC module.
Jim & Dave
Jim I followed your suggestion first the battery is fine it has a full charge 12.7 volts. The tests for the stator and voltage reg have to be done with the engine running don't they? Will try the tests on my regulator and stator as well as soon as it will start.
Dave I tried to test the circuit breaker but not sure if I did it right. The indicator moved when the probes were touched to each terminal that would indicate a blown state correct?
Jim I followed your suggestion first the battery is fine it has a full charge 12.7 volts. The tests for the stator and voltage reg have to be done with the engine running don't they? Will try the tests on my regulator and stator as well as soon as it will start.
Dave I tried to test the circuit breaker but not sure if I did it right. The indicator moved when the probes were touched to each terminal that would indicate a blown state correct?
With a good circuit breaker and an analog meter the needle will deflect to 0 ohms indicating a closed circuit, same as when you put the test leads together to zero the meter. Fuses should test the same way, 0 ohms for a good fuse. Infinity ohms for an open fuse or circuit breaker
When testing a circuit breaker or fuse you should remove one of the wires to isolate the device If there is a short circuit or any load on the circuit the meter will indicate resistance across the device even if it's open or blown.
Bob - See Stan's post. Make sure at least one wire is removed. - Dave
I got all bracets hookede up exspt a thick round bar its atachechet on left side of blower with pin and coter were does the other end hook to thx LP
You need a bracket that bolts on the bottom of the main frame, part #M96016.
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