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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I park my 2001 425 in the garage, My lady smells gas. No puddles, can't find any wetness on the frame. I had her smell under the hood. She didn;t "really" smell anything. By the tank she said she did. My friend with a 345 says the same about his tractor. I really want to park it back in the garage. Ideas?
 

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My 425 and my 318s all have a little gas smell. Got a window in your garage? I would open it.

Roger, How ya doin' neighbor? I'm about half a mile east of K and about 3/4 mi. north of S&D Townline Rd. in Darien twsp.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The guy at the JD store said to try putting a plastic bag around the gas cap when storing. I screw the cap over the bag. This seems to have solved the smell. Do I need a new cap, or ?
 

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I've been a long time lurker, don't know that I have ever posted before. Any issues I've had I've been able to solve using the search function.

Anyway, I bought a 212 about 9 years and have upgraded it over the years. The 212 has served me well, but its time has come to an end. The engine is well worn and burning a quart of oil every lawn mowing, and is down on power. It barely had enough umph to blow snow last winter.

Anyways, I recently picked up a real nice 214. Engine starts right up, no smoke. Runs much smoother for whatever reason. All the controls work much nicer than the 212 every did. It is obvious that this machine was well taken care of.

So I started swapping over the various upgrades from the 212 to the 214. The one that is causing me some problem is the hydraulic lift. The problem has to do with the crankshaft on the two engines. The 212 had a threaded stud that the sheave screwed onto. The 214 has a 3/8" fine threaded hole instead. Makes it a bit tough to screw on the drive sheave...

Anyone run into this before? Is there a difference part that I need? Or is this some running change Kohler made?
 

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I put a new short block in my 212 11 years ago and it was supplied from Kohler/Tulsa e.w. with nothing more than a flat washer to center the pulley. I bought a 5/8-13thrd bolt, screwed it into the pulley, sawed the threaded part off flush, bored a 3/8" hole in the center on a drill press and bolted it on with a 3/8" grade bolt.
 

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Pete, do you have access to a lathe? That would be the easiest way to make the adapter that Edward is talking about. If not, let me know how long the adapter needs to be and I could probably whip one up for you. The obvious potential issue here is that the pulley is now turned by the 3/8" shaft instead of the 5/8" one but it is only a hydraulic pump so I'd think you should be ok. Or, you could swap the crankshafts.
 

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Ed, the flywheel is actually held on by the crankshaft taper. The bolt actually just applies the initial force to set that taper which is why you need to use a puller to remove it. You could remove the bolt and see no problem in most cases.

My concern isn't that the flywheel would come off. It is that the 3/8" bolt that is originally designed to be in tension, holding the flywheel on would now also be subjected to a rotational force since the bolt would now be running the hydraulic pump. It sounds like you haven't had any problems with the bolt twisting off so my concerns may be unfounded.
 
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