[twin2]

I'm replacing the quick connect couplers on my 332 that were never used and left unprotected by the PO. I got the left (as looking from the seat) 2 off and replaced, but the right 2 are pretty rusted on at the hydraulic line fitting. I've put some penetrating oil on, but I'm worried that when I try to free them up I will break the hydraulic line, especially because of the bend in the line. To be prepared for that I've been looking for some replacement lines. That gets me to my first question, are the lines from other 300 series tractors the same as on the 332? Secondly, does anyone have another idea on how to break free the hydraulic line fitting on the hydraulic line?

Thanks for any help.

 

[halouska1]

They are NPT fittings that the coupler screws on. As long as you hold the "tube end" fitting securely you should be ok. As for cross model compatibility you JD parts online shows that the 332 uses differnt lines than the 318 which I figured if anything would be a close fit.

 

[greenguy74]

These fittings are just like frozen brake bleeders just put some lead free flux on the connections and torch for a few seconds and that will free up and allow you to remove.

 

[twin2]

I don't know if I'm saying the problem correctly. The coupler that is on the hydraulic line is rusted to the hydraulic line so when I held the elbow fitting and tried to turn the coupler, the hydraulic line started to twist. I've been soaking it with penetrating oil for a couple days hoping that will work. On the off chance that I need to replace the line, is that something I do from underneath the tractor or is more involved than that?

 

[pa88316]

There is a small plastic "holder " that holds the lines up to the underside of the motor mounting plate, it is held on with a small 1/4-20 of so bolt. The end at the valve is easy, i believe you ll need a 13/16 open end wrench. The coupler ends have a hardly visible snap ring that holds the quick connect fitting to the tractor. You ll want to have a quality set of 90* inside snap ring pliers, or lots of patience for that part of the job. Blow the lines out with commpressed air while they re off too. Cheap insurance .

 

[coalminer16]

Don't try to move the nut on the hard line. Move the coupler side instead so it doesn't twist the line and break it. It may be tight-but it should still come off if done right. Hasn't been many things that couldn't be gotten off without breaking unless things are rusted so far they are too thin.